Author Topic: Rattle can etiquette!!  (Read 184 times)

Offline ace

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Rattle can etiquette!!
« on: January 29, 2010, 10:53:11 AM »
Rattle can paint jobs...:yuck:

The bain of my life, there are some folk who are gifted enough to get it right, and i have seen some cracking jobs done with cans. BUT... i would be a rich man if i had a ?1 for every fuck up i have seen and had to put right.

So heres a few things to consider before you take the plunge and potentially mess up your pride and joy.

Ok, so yup you may save a few quid, and if you are only looking for a quick bodgey tidy up then it is probly the better option. But even if you get a nice finish its life span will be much shorter than proper paint. Spray can paint is really thin, and has lots of thinners in it, it has to be to get through the tiny nossel, even bodyshop supplier paint cans.

It is the amount of thiners added to the paint that causes the reactions that many get, it is also caused buy two different types of paint. Being thinner it is prone to sinking where you can see the old repairs or layers of paint almost ghosted in the paint, it also very often shrinks back over time leaving that dry i should have had it done properly cracked desert look.

Spray can paint becomes brittle, you have all seen it where the paint flakes around the edges, you can get spider cracks that look like star bursts. The lacquer can often go yellow over time also.

Should you chose to have it done right one day, then you may find that many painters will charge extra if a job has been spray caned first as most of it will have to be rubbed off adding many hours of labour to the job.

So chose well.. quality or quick bodge.. am i bias.. hell yeah, i have done the spray can thing and was completely disillusioned, so i bought some kit and started my business, cost a fortune but it is my passion and i love my work, but that is another story.. :big grin: !

However, folk want to give it a go, just as i did, Sudgun has it covered mostly but as a back up here is my quick run down on how to get a reasonable result,   !!

Ok, the first process is to make sure that the panels are de-greased more so around the bottom of fairings and near the chain area, for this you can use gunk or an engine degreaser preferably water soluble, then rinse it with a cheep washing up liquid and some warm water, the cheep washing up liquids are less likely to contain much silicone. Alternatively If you can afford it a quality panel wipe will be your best option to give it a proper degrease.

Check over for any damage, stone chips, cracks etc, you will need to sort this before you go any further or it really will look tat. But dmage repair is a whole different world so for now we will assume the panels are fine.

Remove any transfers and residual glue with a hair drier and the degreaser/panel wipe. Remember that most tank transfers are lacquered on at the factory so you will have to 180 them off and feather the edges.  

For the next process i would use 180 grade paper, it ensures that you havent missed any thing and that the primer has a good surface to cling to. But as we are using spray can it wont work as it is shit and too thin to cover the scratches. So instead flat the panels down with 800 grade wet and dry paper and a bucket of clean water and the same washing up liquid. What you are looking for is to remove all shine and smooth the area to be painted thoroughly, any edges must be feathered out so you cant feel the difference, preferably using a block, remember that what you feel is what you will see.

Once flatted down dry and give the panels a blow off (Ooohh errr missus :Dizzy:) and a wipe down with a tack rag. Then apply your primer in thin even coats leaving a good 10/15 minits between coats untill you have a good layer. Leave to cure for a couple of hours or possibly over night depending on the temperature. Then give the panels another quick rub down with some used 800 wet and dry, the used paper will be less abrasive, you only want to take the top off and any dust or crap that may have snuck in:shakeno:.

Once the panels are flatted and fully dried start to coat your panels with the colour in the same manner as with the primer. If it is a metalic paint you are using then you dont need to worry about finish too much as you will be lacquering it any way, if you are using a straight colour then i would recomend lacquering also, it gives a much better finish.

Once the colour looks good and you are sure that you have not missed areas, again you will need to leave to cure. Once cured you can start to apply the lacquer, first off you want nice thin even coats allowing to dry for 10/15 mins, then apply slightly heavier coats but not too heavy or you will get runs. Continue with this until you are happy with the finish then leave to cure for 24 hours.

Once cured you can flat down with either 1500 or 2000 grade wet and dry and using a rubbing compound bring it up to a lustful shine.

Good luck :big grin:
« Last Edit: January 29, 2010, 11:03:20 AM by ace »

Offline rybes

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Rattle can etiquette!!
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2010, 04:14:52 PM »
ive only done a few paint jobs, me black kwak and Camillas bike. ive always jus used flat colours. i think ive sussed that now n feel competent enough to do someone else bike, as long as its one colour lol.
my next venture is gunna be into metallics, pearls etc.... any hints ? im also thinkin bout multi coloured paint jobs. ones with designs, stripes etc. again, any hints ?
ive the memory of a goldfish with alzheimers :D even goldfishes support DTP

Offline ace

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Rattle can etiquette!!
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2010, 04:57:31 PM »
Prep well, dont skimp on materials, even down to masking tape, cheep masking tape from B&Q wont do, it has the wrong type of glue for solvent and will bleed like a bastid.

If you are masking lines or 2nd colours use 3m fine line to pick out your line then 1" automotive masking tape, then paper taped on to the 1" masking tape. Dont use news paper, the ink will leave trace on any light colours and chances are you wont notice till you put the lacquer on... i know this..:mad: !!

if you are doing red and white, always start with the white, red will bleed through and take ages to cover, you may even end up with a nice shade of light pink.. LOvely...:freaked:.

I could go on for ages, it has taken me years to get it 2nd nature and to this day i am still learning. I am often asked why painters charge so much... well it is a dark art and not cheep if like me you dont skimp on products.