Author Topic: fiberglassing pt 1 skinning  (Read 243 times)

Offline SFC

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fiberglassing pt 1 skinning
« on: March 03, 2010, 10:55:02 PM »
fiberglassing part one skinning

whats needed

carbon fiber/chopstrand/woven
epoxy laminating resin.
catalyst(hardener)  
Mold release agent(wax).
Plastic mixing pots / sticks for mixing
rubber gloves/dust mask
acetone (cleaning brushes/hands)
paint brush's ( a few)
resin roller (not needed on this)
Wet & Dry paper – around 380 and 600 grit size
Spray tin of clear lacquer.

i gather no one's got a full multi million pound fiberglassing company in the back garden like my boss so all this is being done in my shed to give you an idea how easy this
really is. i am not using any tool's or equipment from work and most of this can be bought off ebay if you havent already got most of it and estimate the cost to be about 40 quid
with enough  materials left over to make a few spares or enough to flog on and cover your cost giving you some nice free carbon bit's for a little effort on your part
   

first off this is a dirty job and can cause a nasty rash so please use gloves/mask and old clothes.also get a nice clean area
and set everything how you want it with good ventilation as once the resin is mixed it will start going off within 20/30 mins depending on room temp.


The Skinning Process (mostly used for cosmetic carbon fiber)


This is a description of how to make a glassfiber moulding by ‘skinning’.skinning is the opposit of moulding.
in moulding, glassfiber is applied into or over a mould and the finish that will be seen is the one that was against the mould so the better
condition of the mould the better the finish
however In skinning, it is the opposite way round; you apply a glassfiber skin over a mold/patern  and the finish is achieved by building up a few layer's
of resin  and rubbing/flattening down till you end up with a smooth surface which can then be lacquered and polished.

so now you got everything ready the first thing is grab your pattern in this case i am using suzuki bandit frame infills ( thank's maxx) which are going to
be skinned in carbon fiber and as carbon is pretty expensive it would be a good idea to make a paper template of the shape you are going to need about 1/4" larger
than the desired shape because carbon has a tendancy to fray at the edge's.

place template on carbon and using very sharp stanley knife cut out your shape.
once you got the right shape i covered the pattern in clingfilm so there are no wrinkles
and used the wax 4/5 times on and off ontop of the clingfilm (you could also use cellotape)
i used this as the resin will not damage the original pattern and make it easier to separate when cured.

now mix the catalyst with the resin and stir. do not stir it fast or whip it up as this will produce air bubbles in the mix. depending on room temp the catalyst ratio should be 1%-3%.
1% for a hot room but may take longer to go off and 3% on cold day's and fast cureing.

now wet out your waxed part (infil) with the mixed resin and carefully put your cut out carbon in place, remember it fray's so handle as little as you can. once its in place
apply another layer of resin onto the carbon making sure you have no dry patches and let it dry. if you are making more items you can carry on with the rest using the same principles

a small tip if the pattern has a sharp edge/lip or corner is to cover the whole part in clingfilm (avoid wrinkles if you can) then it will pull up nice and tight to all surfaces of the mould
and then you can carefully move the carbon underneath to get the lines straight and push out any air pockets/bubbles without getting your fingers dirty plus it gives it a nicer finish.
you can leave this on while it dry's

right then so the part's are dry (remove clingfilm) its time to trim off the excess, i used a diamond jigsaw blade but a dremal should be fine and with a bit of luck depending on how much wax you used it should pull apart
if not an air line will seperate them if you need to but as this is skinning and its your own part why not leave it on ? it will save you the trouble of making lug's on the back
to attach it back to the bike.if you want to seperate them fine you could glue them on later or use them little square double sided sticky patche's your gran used for the bathrooms mirrors

last part, so you got your part's nice and dry and seperated (if needed) you will more than likely see pinholes/air bubbles and maybe dry patches ? dont worry,lightly wet & dry
until its flat being carefull not to go to far through the resin and damage the cloth (carbon) mix a little more resin and brush over
the surface, let it dry again and re do wet & dry until it's all nice and flat then a couple of coat's of paint lacquer and a polish will bring it up like the pro's done it.

part two will be coming soon and i will be covering mould making/split mould's/all in one body kits/carbon tanks/seat units and fenders along with vacuum bagging and lost foam moulding
for one off part's

with a bit of luck i should have some finished pic's of the part's so maxx can get them back weekend
« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 11:04:19 PM by SFC »
"your only supposed to blow the bloody door\'s off "

Offline "M"

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fiberglassing pt 1 skinning
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2010, 11:07:15 PM »
Hummm.

You might just have given me some confidence :rolleyes:

A good write up, expect a barrage of dumb qustions in the next month or two :big grin:
Incompetant!

Offline SFC

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fiberglassing pt 1 skinning
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2010, 11:12:42 PM »
[QUOTE="M";265843]Hummm.

You might just have given me some confidence :rolleyes:

A good write up, expect a barrage of dumb qustions in the next month or two :big grin:[/QUOTE]

ask as much as you like it really is easy this part. wait till i get to the lost foam carbon petrol tank part, i think i will start off easy and build up slowly to bodykits and tanks so i dont scare everyone :wink: ps feel free to move it to the right area or change whatever's needed
« Last Edit: March 03, 2010, 11:21:17 PM by "M" »
"your only supposed to blow the bloody door\'s off "

Offline Froudy

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fiberglassing pt 1 skinning
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2010, 11:39:16 PM »
Good "How to" Carl:thumbs:
Assumption is the mother of all Fuckups

Offline cola414

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fiberglassing pt 1 skinning
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2010, 01:56:36 AM »
Nice one Carl,I,ve a little bit of work to do on a pro am fairing and this info will be very handy!:thumbs:
Daddy Cola

Offline "M"

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fiberglassing pt 1 skinning
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2010, 06:51:30 PM »
Im wanting to make bigger panels.

How loose is the carbon weave, does it want to come apart?

How easy is it to get straight over biggers distances and going around contours?

I can see me making little infills and stuff but anything bigger looks out of reach to me.
Incompetant!

Offline SFC

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fiberglassing pt 1 skinning
« Reply #6 on: March 04, 2010, 07:12:35 PM »
[QUOTE="M";265917]Im wanting to make bigger panels.

How loose is the carbon weave, does it want to come apart?

How easy is it to get straight over biggers distances and going around contours?

I can see me making little infills and stuff but anything bigger looks out of reach to me.[/QUOTE]

it wont come apart unless you want it to

it will only come apart/fray at the edge's, just leave enough overlap to take in account of fraying and contours

i find it easier to do bigger panels, maybe get a mate to hold one end to lay it on straight, i take it your just skinning the panel ? biggest problem will be sharp corner's, just shape it in with the brush gently and build up with resin or the best option will be vacuum bagging. get a plastic bag (clear ) wet out your carbon and place it on the part then put it into the bag, wait for the mrs to go shopping and use the hoover to suck out the air and force it to the shape of the part, seal the bag and let dry....more on this sooooon :wave:
"your only supposed to blow the bloody door\'s off "

Offline "M"

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fiberglassing pt 1 skinning
« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2010, 07:28:14 PM »
Quote from: SFC;265918
it wont come apart unless you want it to

it will only come apart/fray at the edge's, just leave enough overlap to take in account of fraying and contours

i find it easier to do bigger panels, maybe get a mate to hold one end to lay it on straight, i take it your just skinning the panel ? biggest problem will be sharp corner's, just shape it in with the brush gently and build up with resin or the best option will be vacuum bagging. get a plastic bag (clear ) wet out your carbon and place it on the part then put it into the bag, wait for the mrs to go shopping and use the hoover to suck out the air and force it to the shape of the part, seal the bag and let dry....more on this sooooon :wave:

Nice one Carl :cool2:

I will look forward to your next instalments :nodyes:
Incompetant!