Author Topic: M.O.T. Questions Answerd  (Read 1148 times)

moto_psycho

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M.O.T. Questions Answerd
« Reply #15 on: November 02, 2007, 12:23:42 PM »
fuckin hell, my pads in my gix are 8 a pair, and a fork seal is about 4

get ur arse on http://www.wemoto.com , also

http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm

take em off, and if u cant do it, send em to 1 of us

Offline Prowler

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« Reply #16 on: November 02, 2007, 02:51:56 PM »
It's the peugeot parts they are a fucking rip off! just been getting quotes off another garage saying 144 to fit the pads and 145 to do the fucking front fork service eeek.. The bolts are fucked on the rear brake caliper i can't do them and to strip the front forks will be a nightmare..:nocomment:

weaver

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« Reply #17 on: November 02, 2007, 05:58:51 PM »
Mate of mine runs a shop in new brighton,dont know if its close to where you are but if you want details i will pm them,he has MOT station as well.Dosent mind chops,fighters or scooters.

Offline Prowler

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« Reply #18 on: November 02, 2007, 06:51:27 PM »
Yea ok pm me the info m8 the name of the garage and number? I'v pretty much rang all of the peugeot dealers on merseyside lol.

moto_psycho

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« Reply #19 on: November 02, 2007, 09:42:32 PM »
do it uself mate, there will be bolts holding it on, undo them and it will fall off in ur hand

Offline FUNKY BANDIT

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« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2007, 06:34:24 AM »
Quote from: moto_psycho;148737
do it uself mate, there will be bolts holding it on, undo them and it will fall off in ur hand

:agreepost:, neither job is hard to do on any bike so i don't suppose scoots are any different. shop around for the bits and any advice you need on the job you can get here on dtp.
when in doubt drink beer

moto_psycho

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« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2007, 09:31:56 AM »
scooters are a pain in the arse only due to the plastics, other than that is a piss job

http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn?oid=5835992 im sure the pads and fork seals on there will  fit, if they dont just dont unwrap em and send em back

Offline Prowler

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« Reply #22 on: November 03, 2007, 02:05:09 PM »
Yea there the pads i'll get them off ebay a little cheaper n1 m8, couple of question does anyone know how the hell i will get a bolt with a rounded head off.. If i try and jam a chizzle in there and wack it will that work? And also i'v got a leak in the front fork is striping it down and finding the leak easy enough to do? Thanks.

moto_psycho

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« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2007, 04:06:31 PM »
use a pair of mole grips on the bolt, or use a hacksaw and cut in a flat notch to get an impact driver with a flatblade on it.

and your fork will be leaking from... the fork seal... where it is leaking.... from.... seal.... leak

Offline FUNKY BANDIT

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« Reply #24 on: November 03, 2007, 07:43:10 PM »
changing the seal should stop the leak. as for the bolt, as moto says grip it with whatever you can (i'd use a stilson pipe wrench myself) or cut a slot in to undo it with an impact driver, as a last resort you can drill into it and use a screw extractor but mind you don't damage the hole threads. replace the bolt with another proper calliper pin or similar high tensile bolt, don't just use any old crap that could snap under stress of braking.
when in doubt drink beer

weaver

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« Reply #25 on: November 04, 2007, 09:46:16 AM »
if you havent tried the chisel route try and get a wall drive socket(halfords do em) and try that,as long as it still has the flats and only the corners are rounded it should still bite.Careful if you go the drill and screw extractor,the extractors are very brittle and are only used for unscrewing once its moveable, not loosening!they snap easy and then youve got a bigger problem.

Offline Prowler

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« Reply #26 on: November 05, 2007, 01:18:30 PM »
This is the type of bolt i'm tring to get off it's rounded off inside it and i can't grip the f in thing with anything...:mad:


Offline masterofinsanity

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« Reply #27 on: November 05, 2007, 01:47:01 PM »
try the next size down allen key and smack it in with a hammer, if its that stuck then apply some heat with a little gas torch. the reason its rounded off is cos the allen key was either cheap rubbish, worn or the bolt was worn, cheap tools cause twice as many problems.
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weaver

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« Reply #28 on: November 05, 2007, 06:08:28 PM »
a daily occurence for us near enough!

A= after soaking overnight,out the correct size allen key in,then use a pin punch and put two dents on every flat of the socket head bolt,hit the punch hard to push the metal against the allen key,then give it a go.
B=if that dosent work ,hit the end of the button head with the a hammer,dont do this if its attached to an alluminum part.
C= Use a six star torx bit of similar size,you will have to hammer it in(see last bit above!)? if that dosent work try a spline type torx bit.sometimes trying to tighten first then lossening does it(right for tight,left for loose as you look at it)
D= if youve a socket set,use a pline type socket,(not a hex) of closest size and tap it over the outside of the head,needs to be a tight fit.
if its going into alloy and you can get it in a bucket somehow,fill it with boiling water to get an even heat,leave for a few minutes and try.
E=if you got someone who can weld,tack a large nut on the head,the heat from the welding and a spanner on the head usually works.

Offline masterofinsanity

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« Reply #29 on: November 05, 2007, 11:13:19 PM »
some bloody good tips there weaver!! think i'll print that off and stick it in me toolbox, cos i'll never remember next time it happens!
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