www.zxrworld.co.uk

Hi, Im looking at joining the ZXR400 gang and im on the look out for one. I found a '91 L model UK bike with 35k miles on the clock, is this too high? It has had 2 new tyres fitted, new x-ring chain and F/R sprockets 1000 miles ago, Carbs balance by dynobike and oil,filter change in April 07. Bike also has a K&N filter fitted along with a full Micron stainless system. Owner has had it for last 5 years so its been in good hands for a while. No crash damage and pretty clean. Its priced at £1100, what u guys think? The thing that might put me of is the mileage.

I am however only looking for it as a second bike/toy as I already have a Ducati Monster street bike and want something for a little fun or the occasional trackday, so I cant see me adding many more miles to it.

Hey there, theres a few ZXR's that have been on here that have done nearly 50K. Its like any engine, so long as its been look after, which sounds like it has, its should be ok for a long while yet. Only things i would be worried about at that mileage is the valve clearances unless you know when they were done last and the head gasket, they usually go at 20k miles, so another 20k later it could be up for doing again.

As for the price im not sure if its slightly over or not considering the mileage With the recent work it kinda justifies it i suppose.

didn't jamz's zxr400 go over the 99000 miles?

i've herd of one with 82,000 on it before and still ran well

try to find a none abused one and you'll do fine

masterofinsanity wrote:didn't jamz's zxr400 go over the 99000 miles?

Not quite! My VFR750 is over 104,000 miles now!

The ZXR400 was over 50,000 miles, I think. I'd had the head gasket done (with a rebore at the same time), and the fuelling was a bit of a mess at the end - but nothing a carb-strip wouldn't have fixed.

It was 2nd gear that was popping out over 9000rpm that was the main problem around that mileage - so that might be worth testing on higher mileage bikes... just put it in 2nd and ride it all the way up to the limiter.

jeeeze! this is EXACTLY the sort of thing that gets my back right up! 35k miles on an engine is absolutely peanuts as long as it is well maintained. Don't look at the miles that it has done, look at the overall condition of the bike and engine. If it sounds like a bag of nails and has plumes of blue smoke coming out the back of it - dont touch it, if it sounds sweeet then it probably is!

My gixxer has done 12,000 miles now and the engine has only just loosened up nicely!

IMO, a well maintained high mileage bike is a much safer buy than a poorly maintained low mileage bike.

Thanks for that, I know what you mean. I myself am a firm believer of oil is the giver of life. In my experiance changing the oil at the right intervals will keep an engine going for a very long time indeed. Only one comment on price though, you think its ok with all the extras and carbs ballanced "I read this is essential or they can run like pigs." Its also MOT'd and taxed for a year?

if i had £1100 i'd buy it but try haggling him down to £900 first, carbs may have been balanced but are they set up properly to take the K&N & full micron system?

Yeah the exhaust and k+N filter where fitted before the dyno run so everything should be running nicely.

You can't trust the mileage on 2nd hand bikes anyway.

Its nearly always fiction ..

On high mile bikes you will find the bodywork, suspension and cosmetics are what suffer not the engines.

Its a piece of piss to rebuild a ZXR; the 2nd gear issue for example is just a case of worn dogs. Nothing major or terminal.
Can be replaced in a weekend as part of a high mile strip down, clean up and tune up.

Head gaskets will be replaced every couple of years on these bikes anyway.

Look at the overall cosmetic condition of the machine. If its good, and there's no issues with the engine then its fine.

As I said, the body and springs go long before the engines do.

When buying look at things like:

1. Number of previous owners
2. Overall cosmetic condition
3. State of the chain & sprocks
4. Oil level in engine and the colour of it
5. Wheel rims, check for marks or tooling scratches.
6. Calipers for muck/grime and pad life remaining
7. If you can test ride it, check the wheel bearings
8. Check the head bearings arent notchy/loose
9. Make sure all the switchgear works A-Ok. Accept no substitute
10. Hot start the bike to make sure it doesnt have the nefarious hot start issue
11. What colour is the brake fluid in the master reservoir?
12. Is the engine cold when you get there. Ask specifically to ensure it is or walk away.
13. When you start the bike does it idle smoothly or does the rev needle jump around all over the pace and the carbs splutter?
14. Any top end rattle thats really audible?
15. Any cam chain chatter?
16. Does the bike smoke?
17. Whats the gearbox like?
18. Do the brakes work?
19. Do the brake lights work?
20. What do you think of the owner; is he scruffy? Ignorant about bikes? How friendly is he - offer you a cup of tea? Is he pushy or relaxed? Does he look to the left or the right when answering questions - indicating a lie etc.

Special: If it doesnt have the original can, levers, indicators etc. Where are they? Make sure you have a OEM can for MOT time.

Remember, nobody is your 'mate'. You don't owe them courtesy unless they show you some.
Never, ever, ever, ever, ever buy a bike on first viewing. Always go away and think about it. Call them in 24 hrs with your decision.

Likewise never accept the opening price unless they are the sort who just want what its worth and aren't going to take to haggling etc.

Test Ride: Never under any circumstances let someone else pilot the bike for you. If you can't ride it, you don't want it.

On the test ride you aren't out to have a nice bimble. Work the suspension, brakes and gearbox; check for notchy shifts or jumping out of gear under harsh acceleration.

Make sure the bike sounds right up the rev range and make sure it pulls beyond 12k.

Additionally, you need to know if the fuelling is right. If its lean it will feel vague after 10k to the red line.

If its surging on the throttle, and not returning to an idle in one smooth movement of the needle. Walk.

Stop the bike. Get off. Wait 5 mins. Start it, does it come instantly to life?

Always take a friend with you when it comes time to actually buy the machine. Make sure you only hand over the cash when its right and you feel comfortable and the keys are in your hand.

Don't let friendly people emotionally blackmail you into accepting their asking price.

Likewise, don't promise you will buy it. Make it clear from the off that you are there to look at the bike and if it looks good, arrange to take a test ride.

Only decide if you want it after the test ride.

Make sure there is always 24 hrs between you testing it and you buying it.

Another one might come along, cheaper in better condition. 80% of used machines will be in near mint condition with < 20k on the clocks anyway. With that in mind, you can really afford to take your time and get the right bike and the right price. Don't settle for anything less than that. Walk. There are loads of bikes out there for your budget and you might change your mind about that model/year at a later date anyway.

And finally ..

Don't buy it because its easier than going back to square one. Thats insane, altho easy to do. I have done it.

If they are asking too much and won't budge, then walk. Most sellers of used machines are only after the muppet who will pay more than its worth. Many have no intention of selling their bike for its true value, under any circumstances. This is often the case in 'silly season' from June to August. Try and suss them out before you waste your time.

HTH

gubbs wrote: Don't buy it because its easier than going back to square one. Thats insane, altho easy to do. I have done it.

I think we've all done it.

good post though. covers everything i can think of.

Excellent post!

It should really be a Sticky on here - but can I suggest an update saying what things SHOULD sound/look like, rather than just saying you chould check them? Most people probably won't know how to check the wheel bearings on a test ride, or know what colour the brake fluid should be, for example...

Probably should be a sticky either way, but this extra info would make it perfect!

i'll add it to the buyers guide if Gubbs is ok with that, don't forget the buyers guide here people.