www.zxrworld.co.uk

Hi,

I recently bought an engine off of ebay for 300 notes, the lad said it's only done 9000miles.

Anyway, I'm doing an engine swap this week, but when I took the clutch cover off to check everything was still there, the clutch looked very.... plain and boring compaired to the 1 in my bike now. The 1 in my L2 sure has a slipper clutch because just by looking at it, it doesn't look no where near the same as the 1 in the spare engine. The 1 in the spare was held in with 4 hex bolts, the 1 in my L2 is held in with 4 allan bolts. What my question is, can I just do a straight swap on the clutches? Take the slipper out of my engine and stick it in the spare?

1 more question, The spare engine has a manual cam chain adjuster, how do you adjust them? Turn clockwise tight? turn until the bolt just bites? etc....

Regards

Rich

got any pics of the differences ?

Hi,

Sure,

Spare engine


L2 Engine (in frame)


Regards

Rich

that doesn't look like a manual tensioner, it just looks like the later type. Basically when you take it off you undo the big nut in the middle and pull out the spring. Reset the tensioner. When putting it all back on, put the tensioner back on with the two bolts, then when on and tightened put the spring back in and do up the big nut in the middle and this correctly tensions the chain. Hope that helps on that front.
If you need any more on that, you've got my number mate

parby81 wrote:that doesn't look like a manual tensioner, it just looks like the later type. Basically when you take it off you undo the big nut in the middle and pull out the spring. Reset the tensioner. When putting it all back on, put the tensioner back on with the two bolts, then when on and tightened put the spring back in and do up the big nut in the middle and this correctly tensions the chain. Hope that helps on that front.
If you need any more on that, you've got my number mate

Hi,

Thanks! You'll have to describe it to me more in more detail! (that's if you don't mind) Only the engine in the bike is auto (got nothing on the end of it) the spare engine has, like you said... A big bolt in the middle of the 2 bolts that holds the tensioner to the engine casing. So I'd have to take the tensioner out and reset it everytime the cam chain starts rattling? or....?

Regards

Rich

pm sent

ok, you're new engine seems to be an H, or even a ZX-4, H's dont have the slipper clutch, and zx-4's have the "adjustable" camchain tensioner ..

was the clutch cover black ? is the sump exactly the same ? is it plumbed for an oil cooler ?

if its a zx4 engine the inlet stubs will want swapping as they are for the smaller carbs.

the "adjustabsle" tensioner is crap, throw it away, there's a reason they were replaced by the later type as fitted to your L2 engine.

you adjust them by removing the circlip off the middle bolt, screwing the middle bolt all the way in, then fitting it, then turn the engine over a few times and back the middle nut off till the groove in the head aligns and fit the circlip back on.. but really they are toad, they use a small friction clutch type device, and wear grooves into themselves so they stick in one position and dont do their job of exerting pressure on the chain.

clutch's can be swapped, just have a look in the manual, you'll need a strong rattle gun or a clutch holding tool.. tbh, the non-slipper clucth is almost as good, and doesnt rattle quite as much.

not sure on that zimm. It looks the same as the one fitted on my L3 and there was no circlip. Just rather than using the wire to hold the compressed tensioner (spring) in whilst you fit it (like the one i sold you), you undo the nut and pull the spring out. Then when refitting, put the spring back in last and do the nut back up. There was no lining of anything up, or clutch type things in it.

zimm wrote:ok, you're new engine seems to be an H, or even a ZX-4, H's dont have the slipper clutch, and zx-4's have the "adjustable" camchain tensioner ..

was the clutch cover black ? is the sump exactly the same ? is it plumbed for an oil cooler ?

if its a zx4 engine the inlet stubs will want swapping as they are for the smaller carbs.

the "adjustabsle" tensioner is crap, throw it away, there's a reason they were replaced by the later type as fitted to your L2 engine.

you adjust them by removing the circlip off the middle bolt, screwing the middle bolt all the way in, then fitting it, then turn the engine over a few times and back the middle nut off till the groove in the head aligns and fit the circlip back on.. but really they are toad, they use a small friction clutch type device, and wear grooves into themselves so they stick in one position and dont do their job of exerting pressure on the chain.

clutch's can be swapped, just have a look in the manual, you'll need a strong rattle gun or a clutch holding tool.. tbh, the non-slipper clucth is almost as good, and doesnt rattle quite as much.

Hi,

Yeah it had a black casing but... when I spoke to the guy that sold me the engine, he said when he first bought the engine from the breakers, it didn't come with any side casings. He also said he took the sides of his fooked engine onto this new 1.

I've put the clutch back together as I haven't got time to ponce about with swapping clutches over. Plus, I gotta get used to normal clutches 1 way or another. Why not start now!

zimm, if you want I can go and get the engine number? As I don't have a bloody clue what bike it's come from.

Regards

Rich

parby81 wrote:not sure on that zimm. It looks the same as the one fitted on my L3 and there was no circlip. Just rather than using the wire to hold the compressed tensioner (spring) in whilst you fit it (like the one i sold you), you undo the nut and pull the spring out. Then when refitting, put the spring back in last and do the nut back up. There was no lining of anything up, or clutch type things in it.

the first one you describe is the one as described in the manual, and fitted to the H-model (or at least the H1 engine I bought. The second is the same as fitted to my (original) L3 motor, and is reset by taking the springs out.

If I remember later I'll post some side by side pics up. with instructions for resetting both types, I've been meaning to do it for a while for the "Know your Stuff" section.

MillaMeter wrote: Spare engine

However this doesn't look like either. It's definitely not the 'H-model' type, as there's no screw hole to poke the wire in (as in the one that's in the frame in your other picture). However the bolt that holds the springs in on the 'L model' type has a much bigger head than that.

Also, the innards of both my clutches look pretty similar, like the one in your bike, and not like the one in your spare engine.

Zimm's suggestion of a ZX4 motor sounds quite convincing in light of these two things.

maybe you're right, i think the only way to properly answer it is to take off the tensioner and have a look see!!

Hi,

Thanks for the info guys!

It's rather confusing on what engine I have bought. If it is a ZX4, is that a bad thing? Have I bought a toad engine? If you want, I'll get a better/clearer picture of the underneith of the tensioner. I can't take the side off as I've only just fitted a new gasket because the old 1 was leaking. (corn flakes FTW!)

If I remember rightly, it's a 10mm socket fitment on the tensioner?

I've put everything together now and looks rather spunky. I dropped the L2 engine literaly 30 mins ago only to find that 1 of the cam chain guide bolts was pretty much hanging out with about 1 thread left to go before it fell out.

This is a really big job for me as this is my first 4 cylinder engine and also is the first time I've dropped 1. I was told by my brother that the most hardest part is getting the new 1 back in

parby81: I do remember a spring wrapped around the tensioner rod when I took the side casgin off if that helps. There was no cam chain blade or anything, looked pretty empty in there.



Regards

Rich

its def a zx4 camchain tensioner.. and an early non-kbatl clutch,

if it is a zx4 engine, its not a bad thing, they are near as dammit the same thing.

they have a different (shallower) sump as standard and no oil cooler, although i believe zxr items can be swapped in with no hassle, only thing to watch is the inlet stubs (that the carbs pop into) as ZX4's have the smaller carbs, and correspondingly smaller rubbers, compare them to yours and if they differ, use the biggest ones, oh and you "may" need the ignition rotor off your original engine if they are different to each other.

zimm wrote:its def a zx4 camchain tensioner.. and an early non-kbatl clutch,

if it is a zx4 engine, its not a bad thing, they are near as dammit the same thing.

they have a different (shallower) sump as standard and no oil cooler, although i believe zxr items can be swapped in with no hassle, only thing to watch is the inlet stubs (that the carbs pop into) as ZX4's have the smaller carbs, and correspondingly smaller rubbers, compare them to yours and if they differ, use the biggest ones, oh and you "may" need the ignition rotor off your original engine if they are different to each other.

Hi,

Thanks for your input. The sump is exactly the same as the 1 on my L2. The rotor cover is also the same as the 1 on my L2 (has raised ZXR on the casing) I've got a picture of the tensioner here. I've also noticed that the engine number is stamped just above the clutch casing instead just above the oil filter like the 1 on my L2.



Regards

Rich