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Clutch specs H1, H2 L1 - L3 and L4 to L9...

How do they differ?

I have about 6 engines bought second hand as spares for racing, and have just assembled one, but the clutch puller (which sits inside the clutch cover with the oil window) is slightly too far forward. On investigation, I reckon the clutch pullrod is probably about 3 - 4mm too far out.
I have looked closely and found that some of my clutches have thicker steels, which I have fitted in this engine,but now I am wondering if the baskets differed too ?

Does anyone know for sure where the part numbers differ?

Clutch basket

End plate

Clutch pull rod

Plates and steels

Perhaps I can fit one more of the thinner steels and plates, but do some models normally have more than others ?

Any help welcome!

Cheers,

Mark

Just studied the microfiche through the link on the front page.

The steels and frictions (and almost all the clutch parts have the same numbers - Are these the kawasaki part numbers? Also, the microfiche only go up to L3, so perhaps L5 onwards had different parts ?

I can see that both the H and L1 - L3 had six friction and 5 steels, did the L4 onwards have a diffent number ? If it did, I can probably tell which ones I have by deduction!

Also just wondering -Does anyone know if the engine range can be deducted through the engine number ? ( i.e. if it's an L6 engine because the engine number is after 2105600 for example)

Really appreciate any help from you knowledgeable types...Zimm, Rob..etc...

I suspect that there may well be differences in clutch plates across the model range certainly the much famed but as yet unseen by me slipper clutch would likely have different clutch plates. Having said that I've never had a problem swapping clutches or plates I bought a full brand new clutch steels and corks that were L9 and they fitted fine in a much older engine/basket.
Have you built your clutch properly maybe left something out ?? Just a thought

Engine numbers are easy in one sense the higher the number the newer the engine.................but where the cut offs are I don't know

Im sure i was told by someone that the H had 1 less or maybee 1 more than the L... not much help then!
Altho, i have put a L clutch in a H and vise versa. My engine now, is mostly L with a H1 clutch. So they do swap. having said that i have a stack of 'zxr400' steels that vary alot more than just wear, so who knows..
Ive also had the problem of the clutch arm to far forward. I cant remember quite why, i think it was a combination of worn clutch arm and inadequate gasket.
there is two different clutch baskets. the kabtl and the non slipper type.
there was a thread with photos comparing the two somewhere

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7040&p=56049&hilit= ... tch#p56049
there it is , but the photos have gone.

Well I figured all mine were L engines, cos all the clutches look the same! It wqas only when I stripped that I realised some steel plates were thicker than others. I will get the vernier on them tomorrow. I did read that thread on the KBTL / slipper clutches, shame the pix are gone.
I also read the one on Slippers for ZXR750RR's - I might try this method of using different plates to "shim out" the clutch to get the correct bite. I'm using the correct gaskets, have assembled according to the manual and have used new parts,apart from the arm and pull rod. Will examine them for wear too !
I am trying to get this b*****d bike ready for Snetterton NGlos in May, but it's an old L1 and every single procedure has taken far too long ! It even blew the seal out from behind the sprocket and landed me on my back, I have rebuilt the calipers about 4 times, and the master cylinder, and fitted new goodridge lines and new copper crush washers and air is still getting in somewhere! GRRRRRRRRRR :smt013 Top tip - Don't use an rusty old L1 as a basis for a race bike.

mark400 wrote:Just studied the microfiche through the link on the front page.

The steels and frictions (and almost all the clutch parts have the same numbers - Are these the kawasaki part numbers? Also, the microfiche only go up to L3, so perhaps L5 onwards had different parts ?

i have the L4/4A & L5 microfiches at home i will check tonight.

i hope this pic upload works

Attached photo of the two types of plate - One has dimples and is thin (2.25mm) , the other is thicker and smooth (2.85mm)
Times by five plates @ 0.6mm = 3mm which is more than another plate - Hence why the clutch slips with these plates in.

So could it be that these are the adjustment (shimming size) plates for the KBATL system? Looking at the thread for the zxr750RR, this is how the slip is adjusted.

Anyway, have rebuilt cluch with all new components and it all fits now - Have used the fatter plates, five of them to be exact!

Brake bleeding issue seems to have been the two tiny seals which sit between the caliper halves, they obviously become porous or bendy, and let air in, although the amount is so tiny, it takes a few hours before the lever feels spongy again.

Aye, ive seen them dimpled ones before, someone on here i think had them?
Ive never seen them in the flesh tho. I wonder why they are dimpled? do you think that may reduce the heat in the kabtl setup?
they would be good to experiment with,with maybee a few of the thicker ones and shims to see if you can get that right amount of slip? then tell me

Hi Jake,

I will experiment a bit this year, trying different combinations of plates. I think the place I most needed a slipper was at the hairpin at Mallory, haven't been there since the rebuild though.
Will let you know what happens, hopefully not from hospital...