fan aint kicking in

[deebow1985]

cheers red ill go for it seen as though im diving in the deep end lol, wheres the best place to get cam chains ive looked on ebay but they go for 50 cheapest one i seen was 20 but that was second hand n the guy aint replied on the condition :wanker, (ive been dying to use that smiley )

about the sump plug he just said i should replace it, is this neccesary ? is it the one you take out to drain the oil ? if so it seems in good condition so prob no need to replace he also said something about copper washers but i dont know what he was going on about.

oil was black but a bit misty when it settles if that makes sense,

should i strip the water system down ? when i fill it theres no obvious place its leaking from like if i go in the garage in the morning theres no puddle or out, there is a few bent fins on the rad (if thats the little metal things ?) but not to many should i straighten these with a comb ?, also is the little one below the radiater that looks like a radiater a radiater as well lol cos there is a few bent fins on this also. the pipes that are visable all seem ok there is a slight tear more of a scratch where the jubilee clip goes onto the rad but ive took thius pipe off and checked and it doesnt go right through, the expansion bottle looks like it has a few cracks in but water isnt leaking out of the bottle itself might just be on its way out.

Ill give the mot station a ring tommorow and see if they remember as its been 2 weeks since i took it.

im not fully sure about where the oil is coming from i will have a look tomoz but it sounds about right, these O rings u mentioned is there a name for them like plug O rings or something ? i may as well replace these whilst im at it how many will i need ?

it runs ok when i filled her up last time but the water was still boiling but the thermostat wasnt rising dead high half way at a max, how high should the temp be for the fan to kick in ? cos thermostat was high last night but it didnt come on i think that was because there wasnt enough water in the rad for the fan sensor to pick it up
cheers for the help so far m8
jordan

[RedexRobB]

Try the link at the top of the page, Cradley's

No need to change the sump plug, just the copper washer as is seals it where its a soft metal. But because its soft it needs/should be replaced when you take the sump out.

Youll have to empty the water system out of you go in and do the head gasket, but id be inclined to sort the leak first as this could be causing your problems. The cooler under the rad is the oil cooler.

Theres 8, 4 for the top and 4 for the bottom, but they are different part numbers, look at the microfiche on the main site and youll see what i mean.

Specs for the thermostat are in the mnaual mate, not sure off the top of my head. Have a good look at that manual too, itll help you when you get to do this.

[deebow1985]

ok red thanks for all your help m8, ill have a good look at the manual tonight, regarding the copper washer can they be bought from any diy shop ? and does it just slip over the sump plug ? im not sure if mine had one on well i didnt see one lol.
Ive tried the link but cant seem to see cam chains ill try ringing them itll be easier, will they also sell rear wheel bearings and them O rings i need ?, one last thing and ill stop bothering u lol. are the rear wheel bearings and front forks seals quite easy to do with instructions for a neewbie ? once again thanks for all the help m8 cheers

[RedexRobB]

It may well be that the original washer is stuck to the sump plug, usually they are aluminium. Should be able to get them from somewhere like halfords, or even cradleys.

Cradleys will get you anything you need, so if you want it they can get it for you, they are a kawasaki dealer.

Wheel bearing are easyish, youll need the right tools. As for fork seals, theres a guide or two on here somewhere on how to do it. Never done them personally so not sure how it all goes.

[deebow1985]

Thats handy halfords is just down the road
i tried cradleys once for a hugger and a foot peg but they couldnt get them for my bike, ill try them for some bearings though.
what tools will i need for the bearings ?
oh i rang the MOT station today and asked about the coolant leak he said he didnt know where it came from because he wasnt looking for it just that when hed started it up and finished what he was doing there was a puddle on the floor, so i think this well id almost say i know that it is coming from the expansion bottle over flow pipe, when i asked he said it could be because im filling it up to much but wouldnt it just empty until its at a good level ? (i mean the bike was near enough empty) and he suggested like you said red it could be the head thats gone so im gonna go for it, when i take the head of should i clean it all out with a rag or something ? and should i flush the engine out with something before i put the new oil in ?
oh do you know what them o rings are called what u suggested could be leaking ?
cheers m8

[deebow1985]

whats a base gasket ? should i replace this whilst im doing the head gasket as well ?
im going to start stripping her down after my tea i will take pics or do a video n upload it to the site
gonna do the clutch plates first

[RedexRobB]

Of course yours is a H model so parts are starting to get limited for them!

For bearings, youll need a long drift (to knock them out), a hammer, circlip pliers and a socket thats just that little bit smaller than the bearing to drive it in.

Where are you filling the expansion bottle to?

When you get the head off dont touch it, just replace the head gasket and be done with it. moving dirt around to clean it, it could end up anywhere.

You could flush the engine, but i think most flushing agents require the engine to be started??

O rings, i dont know, they will just be an 'oil seal' for most kwak dealers -> the microfiche you need http://www.zxrworld.co.uk/images/hmicro ... 0cover.gif 11009A and 92055A, 4 of each.

base gasket sits between the bottom of the barrels and the crank case, your probably ok not doing it, if anything youll prob have a night mare getting it all back together as the pistons will have to come out the bores, so i wouldnt worry.

Have fun and if you get stuck have a good look at the manual.

[deebow1985]

cheers m8 ill take your advice, im doing the clutch plate now im taking pics at each step instead of making a vid and ill upload them if im allowed by the admins. what i am struggling to do is ive just removed the screws from the clutch casing and its still not coming off should i give it a few gentle whacks wiv a hammer ? also when i turned the screws it sounded like there was a cracking noise the screws where ok do they have somke sort of sealant on though ? and should i be putting this back on ? if so what sealant is it ? and ive got a new gasket for the clutch plate case but do i need to put sealant around this as well ?
i filled expansion bottle right to the top oooops im guessing thats a then lol, we all learn by our mistakes

[deebow1985]

is that the part numbers i should quote for the o rings you listed m8 ?

[RedexRobB]

There's more to that part number but when u call to order they will find it.

I think you need to turn the clutch arm round one way or the other to get the case off, someone recently had the same prob. Did the bokts crack as they come undone,? That's usyally down to them being torqued n not undone in a long time.

No sealant needed.

There's level marks on the coolant bottle. Look for them. Id say empty ir to level n see how the engine is but u already taken oil out by the sound of it.

[deebow1985]

Alright red yeah that was the problem i disconnected the wire to clutch arm and came off easy pity i couldnt say the same about the gasket it was stuck like toad to blanket, after an hour with my friend stanley i finally got it off with a few cuts lol.

yeah id say thats what the bolts where cracking for, although there is 2 that are on the right side and they have like a red sealent on them thats like plastic only these 2 have them and then on either side there is like a rubber sealant on either side of gasket and the engine, the bits where the block comes toghether any idea what kind of sealant this is ?

yeah ive already dropped the oil m8 otherwise id give it a try im hoping it wont take to long for me to do clutch plate and head then i can try it out im dying to get out to see the last of the good weather,
if i replace the cam chain do i need any gaskets for anything i will have to take off ?
thanks

[deebow1985]

oh poo i forgot to ask when i put the new clutch plates in, to try and see if there working ok before i put the oil back in will i have to turn the engine on ? or will i have to fill her up first thanks

[RedexRobB]

Something has just occured to me. How did u loosen off the clutch cable? Hopefuly u just undid the cable tensioner underneath n not the bracket that holds it?

Also, did u soak the clutch plates in oil? Only way to test plates is to ride id say, so you'll need oil on the engine on lol I'm not sure about the red stuff, sounds like thread locking agent.

[deebow1985]

i cut it with a hack saw is this no good ? lol. i just undid the 2 nuts underneath until it was loose and it clipped out,
yeah i soaked the plates in oil for about 10 mins is that enough time or should i take them out and soak them longer ?
ive put the new ones in the only problem is on the old clutch plates on every one they have a little grove on 2 of the nib things thats stick out (dont know what there called but the cog things) but they have a grove on each plate on 2 nibs but the new ones dont will this matter ? the clutch plates came with my bike the lad said he was gonna do it but hed knock money off if i bought it without doing them.

[cargo]

I've enjoyed reading this thread it's been most entertaining................and now i feel I should make a contribution.

First off. I have read nothing in this thread that provides conclusive evidence that the head gasket is gone. The head gasket is NOT a service item that must be replaced at a specfic mileage.

The over heating problem could have the result of any of a number of faults. Blocked/dirty radiator, faulty thermostat, faulty water pump, internal corosion, lack of coolant none of thse have been investigated properly. Under normal riding conditions the radiator fan should NOT start or be running it may start if the bike is being ridden in heavy slow traffic on a hot day....................but generally it should not be on.

The two screws on the righthand side of the clutch cover enter the oil cavity and so have threadlock/sealant on them.


I still fear for the camchain tensioner as it has not been made clear how the clutch cable was removed.................which two nut were removed.

As a general rule of thumb always look for the most simple solution to a problem dont go fixing things that aint broke

And for our friend Deebow...................it is clear to me that you have very limited experience and skills when it comes to motorcycles and how they work thats not to be disrespectful but you are about to take on a job that it challaging for even an experienced guy......................You also seem to lack basic common sense once again thats not an insult or a crtisisim I'm just trying help you avoid a disaster.
Get your self a good book on basic motorcycle maintance read and digest it...................for an example you had to ask what a base gasket was................for a man about to pull the cylinder head off his bike thats not a good sign. also you wondered if the oil needed to be dropped out in order to remove the cylinder head again not a good sign.

I have had another thought.........................you could also be a wind up merchant ?

Good luck with you bike there is much experience on this forum and many threads covering the various jobs you are trying to do I'm sure you will find it all very helpful