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Well i've been looking into doing an engine service, as well a sorting out my overheating issues.

I'm going to change the coolant and add in a switch for the fan so i can control it. With the coolant, is it just a case of taking off the pipe from the bottom of the rad? There is also one bolt in the cylinder, on the left hand side of the engine where the manifold pipes are. Is this the drain bolt? I cant find any others.

Anything else i need to do with it?

I've been telling myself i need to do the cam chain, but after reading through the history (didnt really bother when i bought it) there is a garage bill for the cam chain and tensioner about 7000 miles ago, so i'm guessing these won't need to be done for a while?

I'm thinking the chugging noise i'm hearing is probably due to the carbs not being set up, and the valve clearances?

I'm going to do these myself, i take it the cam chain is auto adjusting?

Last thing, when i do the valve clearances do i need to drain the coolant or oil or anything?

Thanks, sorry for the long post!

to drain the coolant, pull the bottom pipe off the water pump..

there's two 10mm bolt heads on the front of the cylinder block, these are drain's, but you dont need to touch them unless the block/head is coming off.

no need to drain anything in order to do the valve clearances

cam-chain and tensioner should easily last 7000 miles.. if you are in there doing the clearances check the cam timing is spot on and that the tensioner isnt fully extended, if timing's out (by like, half a tooth) the chain has stretched (or jumped .. which is unlikely) same if tensioner is almost fully extended. Tensioner automatically takes up the slack

set valve clearances towards the loose end of the acceptable range, as they tighten over time.

you will find 4 hands, 6 eyes, the ability to bend light round corners and a magnet on a stick invaluable when doing the clearances.

nah, its not that tricky, just dont drop a shim in the engine !

Great advice, you always seem to be the one with the knowledge lol.

Shall do the coolant next week, along with the new shock i've got. Hopefully might help a bit. should i flush the rad out with anything?

I would take it to a shop to get the clearances done, but i don't see the point when i know i can do it myself. Time waiting for any shims if needed etc would just be a waste. I've got glasses, does that count for 4 eyes? I'm sure i've said before, but the engine pulls great and no hiccups, so i guess the timing will be ok but i shall check it anyway.

I'm fairly sure most of the running probs at idle are caused by the carbs, i'm guessing the rubbers will be worn when i check.

On a side note, my exhaust strap snapped today, know where i can get one?

Cheers

if the timing were out half a tooth, what symptons would the bike be showing? Might be helpful to a few on here.

you probably wouldnt notice half a tooth.

okay, for arguments sake lets say a whole tooth then. Would they be running toad high up or low down. Hesitant? etc etc. Just thought it might be of use to anyone experiecning problems.

if the timing is out by a tooth, the chances are that the pistons will twat the valves and the engine will die a horrible expensive death.

or you could just bend some valves, if your very feckin lucky!!!!! My bros timing belt snapped on his car, my dad and i told him it would probably be a basket case, new engine etc. Jammy git had only bent two valves, no other feckin damage. He is one lucky son of a gun!!!

yeh, i got away with a snapped timing chain on my tuned mini with zero damage, but cars dont rev to 14,000 rpm, and its at high revs that the damage will occur on a bike, as an example the exhaust cam on my tuned zx6r engine was 2' out from where it ought to have been.. i did a few hundred miles like that, and it felt fine.. then the first time i nailed it to the limiter it bent/snapped half the exhaust valves, mullered the ported head, destroyed a £100 piston and scored 2 of the bores up.

and that would be half the problem with springs. They can't keep up. Hence its fine low down on a bike and in a car, but at the limiter contact occurs. Expensive way to find out mind you!!