Great to be part of Zxrworld forum and great to keep the ZXR400 alive and I am looking for clarity as I think I am confusing the issue by over thinking the problem if that makes sense? (Another voice of reason may clear my doubts)
?I was lucky enough to land on a H1 Model SP1 (Confirmed by frame/engine number) albeit in bits and in a very very sorry for wear state with also a Std H engine and the SP engine as (J on the casing and slotted cams etc) and after ripping it all down I have started to build back up again as per manual to run as my wet bike.
Having built several L model engines with good HP output (70 & 72Hp as dynoed at Melted sliders) I am now doubting this build as following setting TDC on 1-4 and checking valve / shim clearances I am actually finding if T markings are on the timing plate are inline with casing joint and F is pointing towards back of motor with cam marks level with head casing / pointing outwards and notches on cams are pointing away from each other that as per manual I should be able to check Inlet 1 and 3 / ext 1 and 2 but actually I can only check Inlet 2/4 and Ext 3/4 ?
To check Inlet 1 /3 and Ext 1/2 I have to rotate the crank in which case the camshaft marks point at each other and notches on cams are also pointing inwards?
Another point is the Rotor is marked 1189 and same as my L engine and does not look like the manual rotor on a H model, could that be the issue??
Have made two race looms for the L model and running Blue M Ecu for max revs/power.
Total loss running
No genny
No windings and flywheel lightened
.5 oversized pistons
Base gasket in tact
32mm CV carbs which looked to have been bored out as I have a set of 30mm as well
Micron headers
Micron CAN
STD airbox (Possibly will mod this)
Question?
Does it matter of valve checking sequence as I understand 1/4 fire together like 2/3 ?
As long as valve tolerances are the same there should be no loss of power (Currently I have between .2 and .3 to address as setting shims as per tolerances in H Race manual.
If the above is incorrect how do you rectify as by pulling out the cams and resetting all over again I get the same result
Like I said I think I am overthinking the issue as the bikes fires up ok and sings on full throttle so cant be too far off but any clarity would help.
Regards and great web site for information
PS Anyone done the airbox mod on a H1 as on Youtube by capping the snorkel outlet and cutting a section from the bottom of the airbox facing front of bike, looks to be similar to my RMKD ram air theory of taking air from in front of engine at higher flow? Have RMKD ram air on dry bike but don't think it will fit the H with standard tank?
Any feedback would be great!
I will upload some pictures when I can find some clothes for it as H1 fairings are rocking horse dung on Ebay and may have to go for a pattern cockpit and rescue the tail pod and side panels with some creative resin bonding/sanding and painting ?
Regards Steve