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I'm looking at a 96 bike with 22k on it, no indication that the cam chain has been changed or valve clearances done, I see from the buyers guide they need new chains at 20k, if the seller has no idea if its been done I guess I should get it done as a matter of course and the valve clearances too. Alternatively, look for another bike?

I guess changing the cam chain is NOT a job for a moderate home mechanic

depends what you mean by moderate? If you can follow a manual, do things carefully and not with brute force then yes you can do it. Some will argue about engine in or out, personally i've taken the engine out when doing mine, but thats not too difficult either. As for the chain, that all depends on how the bike has been ridden and looked after. You'll know if its the cam chain as you'll be able to hear it rattle. But you also need to check the tensioner as this will probably need replacing before the chain does. the only sure way to know if the chain needs doing is to take it out and measure it, but once you've done that you might as well replace it anyway. And whilst you're doing that you could do the shims at the same time. Have you ever changed a cam belt on a car before? if you can do that then you can do this.

There's a test for the cam chain in the manual, only if it fails it needs replacing. The headgasket on average goes around that mileage n most people change the cam chain while its all apart which iirc is the reccomendation in the guide.

In short there is no fixed mileage it needs changing.

Thanks folks much appreciated

just do it. much easier with engine out ,itself an easy job. these bikes are very easy to work on even if you havent done this type of thing before. follow the manual take it easy, take it slow, it'l be reet.