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guys, got a little "rattle/clicking" noise coming from the engine, it's definitely the cam chain, i can't seem to locate the tensioner on the bike? is it manual or self adjusting, it's embarrassing as im a bike mechanic and i can't bloody see the unit lol

noise happens at about 3-4000rpm and then disappears after 6-7000rpm

if its self adjusting then will i have to replace the unit? it appears as if the engines never been taken apart, it has 40,000km (28,0000miles) everything is still tight apart from that one little sound

thanks, B

Cam chain tensioner is below the ignition pick up cover right side as you sit on the bike. the two bolts that hold it in also hold the clutch cable bracket.

the noise you describe does indeed sound like cam chain noise.

It could just be a worn chain but a faulty tensioner is likely too

also you should check the tensioner blade for damage

The tensioner is automatic it works on a ratchet with a spring loading up the tensioner blade and the chain. It's not unusal for tensioners to fail.

all easy fix and parts are easy available too

thanks for the reply, thats answered everything i needed to know!

any recommendations as to what cam chain to buy? is the spring/ratchet mech going to need a change when replacing the blade and chain?

I always buy OE cam chains they are not that expensive..............it is possible your cam chain is ok and it's just a faulty tensioner/blade

The tensioner comes as a complete unit.................there are two versions the older version which I think is still available is much cheaper and frankly IMHO just as good as the newer version.

Given the time needed to do it if it was me I'd have new chain, new blade and new tensioner regardless of what was or wasnt faulty


Cradley Kawasaki is THE place to get parts just ring em

fair shout mate, appreciate that, im hoping its just the blade thats knackered lol

i'll do a bit of shopping around when im back from physio, cheers for the help!

If you remove the pulsar cover you can measure the travel on the tensioner drift. Then reset it and get it to Auto adjust again , while out you can then measure the max setting and compare notes.

That will let you know if it's chain, guides or tensioner fail.

For a quick fix you can file the drift end a little so it pushes further - another botch is to add a ball bearing at the spring end to make it apply more pressure - these are get you home safely fixes and not a long term plan

The updated tensioner body is the one to get and has been recommended to me by KRT , they even sent me new old version cause they had bundles of them So I actually have some where an unused old version - I never fitted.

Guides only really wear if you get a lot of chain slap , that's from hard acceleration ( racing ) , missed gears , heavy downshifts ( racing) and general dogs abuse.

Old oil will also deteriote the guides so lack of oil changes or bikes stored over long periods of time with used oil can also suffer.

It is no biggie on these bikes to replace the complete chain system and very worth while if you know you screw the nutz off it

sorry to go off topic slightly, mori man you mention you can fit a bigger ball bearing in with the tensioner spring, ive just finished rebuilding my l3 engine and it contains no ball bearing in with the tensioner spring, is there definitely supposed to be one in there as i can't find any mention in the manual or find the spring on the microfiche

cheers
chris

Hi Chris,

I have edited my post, that's from my Z & GPz owner days But the principle botch is sound