L1 Head Gasket Change

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Fri May 01, 2015 3:21 pm

Hi guys, my L1 has decided to show signs of a blown head gasket - I have both manuals and a mechanical old-man, however I am trying to find a video of someone doing a head removal, just to ensure this goes smoothly!

So, does anyone know of any videos / written guides?

Thanks! Jord.

JamieNeve · Post by **JamieNeve** » Fri May 01, 2015 8:06 pm

Hi buddy, are you planning to do it with the engine in the frame, or out? I have done a few with the engine in, so would be happy to write you out a guide. It's a bit more fiddly, but easier if you don't have the facilities to drop it out!

Jamie

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 2:37 pm

Hi mate, engine in

Really appreciate that, thanks bud

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 3:34 pm

Looks like my old man has bailed on me, so this being my first time removing a head, I'm now trying to get every detail possible - the only thing he'll be doing is my torque settings (cheers, lol) - does radiator HAVE to be removed?

So far every panel is off, tank, airbox, carbs, exhaust, coils removed, cables etc - I'm literally a rocker cover away from revealing the internals of my head

Edit - also side cover revealing cam chain and tensioner

Post by **Miles** » Sat May 02, 2015 5:09 pm

I would suggest draining the coolant system as it will help stop any coolant from making a mess when you lift the head. Though I guess in theory it shouldn't affect the lifting of the head.

Having always dropped my engines to work on them I couldn't say if you need to take the radiator off but if you drain it then you may as well remove it to give you more room to work

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 6:43 pm

Yeah coolant and oil will be drained, will be working from the sides of the bike so may leave it on, and remove if need be

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 6:44 pm

How long would you say it is to change the gasket, if the bike is already stripped? Takes me about 45mins to put back together, just hoping 2 full days is enough

Edit - how long from removing the rocker cover, stripping the engine down, to putting all the engine back together?

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 6:46 pm

Silly question, but to get the engine to TDC, do I remove the plugs and turn the pickup plate clockwise?

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 6:57 pm

Debating just dropping the engine out, sounds like it'll be a hell of a lot easier!

Post by **Miles** » Sat May 02, 2015 7:08 pm

It's not difficult to drop the engine, disconnect the loom and four bolts. Check the manual gives you a step by step. I'd give yourself a couple of hours to do the head. Yes turn the timing disc to the correct mark. Double check the manual

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 8:57 pm

Is it more beneficial to drop the lump out? I was thinking of putting wood on a Jack, lowering it down then picking the back end up and over the engine, may need to lift it a foot or so to clear the lump! Then vice versa when the engine is back together. Fingers crossed none of the stretch bolts need replacing or head skimming, I'm really missing my Hetty

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 8:59 pm

JamieNeve wrote:Hi buddy, are you planning to do it with the engine in the frame, or out? I have done a few with the engine in, so would be happy to write you out a guide. It's a bit more fiddly, but easier if you don't have the facilities to drop it out!

Jamie

Ere' Jamie, where's this guide hiding at?

I'll be following the manual, but I've read that the manual shows the incorrect way of putting the chain in place, by a few links! So out with my tipex and cardboard box to use as a template for all my bolts etc

Post by **Miles** » Sat May 02, 2015 10:13 pm

Never had any issues following the manual. I assume your referring to the cam chain. From memory it should be 31 rivets, cam to cam. (Double check that)

I use a piece of cardboard to make a template for the head bolts. Means you don't get them mixed up

Replaced a couple of cam chains & head gasket and all I did was work slowly and follow the manual

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 10:27 pm

Yeah I put holes in a box and mark with tipex a number (on the bolt, say) and perm. marker the box so I know where everything goes - and if the box does spill over and empty, then the number of the bolt is tipexed onto the head - yeah the cam chain, I think the manual says 30 from the top of my head, but i'll mark the chain up to the current teeth they were on, so it all goes back in the exact same place, to the correct torque setting, but with a new HG

TurkishJordo · Post by **TurkishJordo** » Sat May 02, 2015 10:30 pm

Miles wrote:Replaced a couple of cam chains & head gasket

- I guess the ZXR really does chew up cam chains and head gasks lol

www.zxrworld.co.uk