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Hello people,

Im in need of advice on changing the cam chain on an sp motor and was wondering if you lot can help?
Basically its done just over 20k miles and starting to rattle, I loosened the bolts on the tensioner until it clicked and them done it back up, that stop the rattle for a few mouths but now its back so im pretty sure it needs changing I just have a couple of questions about doing it,
Iv done cam belts on cars in the past with no problem but never on a bike engine, Is there anything I should look out for or anything common with theses that going to be a pain in the backside, would it be easer to take the engine out of the frame or leave it in as I want to check the valve shims at the same time and it doesn't look like there's much room if I do need to change any of them.
Something else I just remembered the shaft that comes out of the tensioner doesn't line up squarely with the extension rod which pushes the chain slipper is this normal or has someone fitted a wrong tensioner at some point in the past?

Cheers Mash.

Mr.Mash wrote:Hello people,

Im in need of advice on changing the cam chain on an sp motor and was wondering if you lot can help?
Basically its done just over 20k miles and starting to rattle, I loosened the bolts on the tensioner until it clicked and them done it back up, that stop the rattle for a few mouths but now its back so im pretty sure it needs changing I just have a couple of questions about doing it,
Iv done cam belts on cars in the past with no problem but never on a bike engine, Is there anything I should look out for or anything common with theses that going to be a pain in the backside, would it be easer to take the engine out of the frame or leave it in as I want to check the valve shims at the same time and it doesn't look like there's much room if I do need to change any of them.
Something else I just remembered the shaft that comes out of the tensioner doesn't line up squarely with the extension rod which pushes the chain slipper is this normal or has someone fitted a wrong tensioner at some point in the past?

Cheers Mash.

It's quite normal that the tensioner and the extension rod don't line up.

It was very naughty of you to losen the tensioner body then retighten it in an effort to tighten the camchain you could very easilly brake the ratchet mechinism in the tensioner which would leave you wil a very broken engine if the camchain broke.
The spring in the tensioner is more than able to push the rod to it's limit so what you did was not nesscessary.


Anyway changing the cam chain is easy and best done with engine out given what you've already done I would change the tensioner while your at it. and the blade too for that matter

Mr Kawasaki will tell you that you need to split the cases to get the old chain out but a little work with a Dremmel avoids this make sure you don't allow any swarf into the rest of the engine and clean the entire area afterwards.

Basicly it goes like this and I accecpt no responsibility for any ommisions

Engine out
ignition over off
Top engine cover off
line up timing marks
remove tensioner body and rod
remove camshafts
remove ignition rotor
remove tensioner blade
get to work with Dremmel
cam chain out
new camchain in
tensioner blade in
cam shafts in and lined up
igniton rotor in
tensiner rod and body refitted don't forget clutch cable guide
tensioner spring and bolt fitted
turn engine over
refit all covers
put engine back

Yeah I admit I probably shouldn't of tensioned the chain manually but it did give me a chance to listen to the rest of the noises coming from the engine,
I ordered a genuine cam chain and tensioner which should be with me by the weekend so I can make a start on it then, I think I see what you mean about attacking with the dermmel a bit of casing on the bottom right of the crank pulley?
I reckon Mr kawasaki was a bit drunk when he came up with the idea of splitting the engine.

Cheers for that Cargo you've been a big help

Mr.Mash wrote:Yeah I admit I probably shouldn't of tensioned the chain manually but it did give me a chance to listen to the rest of the noises coming from the engine,
I ordered a genuine cam chain and tensioner which should be with me by the weekend so I can make a start on it then, I think I see what you mean about attacking with the dermmel a bit of casing on the bottom right of the crank pulley?
I reckon Mr kawasaki was a bit drunk when he came up with the idea of splitting the engine.

Cheers for that Cargo you've been a big help

I do believe you've got it
Well done

Is there a good place to buy Kawasaki spares. Ive really only owned Honda's and always used David Silver as he offers good discounts. Is there a Kawasaki equivilant. I also need a cam chain and guides set as mine rattles like a good'un, what sort of money did they cost?

Best place for Kawasaki parts is

http://www.cradleykawasaki.co.uk/

01384 633455

Nearly always next day delivery

Camchain is about £20
Tensioner is about £50