Clutch Problem

Boonie · Post by **Boonie** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 5:34 pm

Got an issue guys and not found anything on the web to help so back to where the knowledge is (why I didn't come here straight away I'll never know, but that's another story).

Ok, when the clutch is pulled all the way in the engine is still biting, to the point where when I am stopped I find it really difficult to get the bike into neutral.

Any thoughts? I'm loathed to pay someone Â£200+ at a garage just to turn a knob, if you know what I mean. The bike is running fine although I do think it could do with an oil change. It's been a year since the last one, but I've only done 1500 miles this year.

Next year will be different.

Post by **Jamz** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 5:51 pm

Your clutch isn't fully engaging. Usually it's the opposite that happens, because of worn parts etc, so i'm pretty certain that all you'll have to do is adjust the clutch cable so that it engages sooner!

Never done it myself, but i gather it is literally just turning the knob on the bars, or if that's all out of adjustment possibly at the other end of the cable.

If i'm right then it's definatly something you can do yourself - in fact any half-decent garage should do it for you for free within about 2 mins flat.

SimonH · Post by **SimonH** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:52 pm

probably your cluch cable stretched.....get a new one- ten minute job to replace even if you're mechanically inept

Boonie · Post by **Boonie** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:55 pm

I had a look at this when I got home. There seems to be 2 things which affect the clutch lever.

1) The dial with the number effectively seems to adjust how far out the clutch lever sits. I have small hands... (no comments please) ; )... so I need the lever fairly close in. This was however probably too far in and can be let out a little. If this is done, does that mean that I will be pulling more on the cable or is this purely an adjustment of the lever?

2) The two screw type bits that the cable comes out of. I can turn this so that it comes further out of the lever housing, and then turn the larger of the screw fittings to secure the first in place. This has the effect of not allowing the metal sheath around the clutch cable to move as much. I am assuming therefore that I will then be pulling on the clutch cable more as the sheath stops moving earlier?

Does this make sense? I do not know.

: )

RedexRobB · Post by **RedexRobB** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 7:22 pm

lol, here goes

If you adjust the clutch lever position so that it goes further out, that will allow the clutch to engage more, as the lever wont hit the bar sooner and you will have pulled the cable that little bit further

Adjusting the cable adjuster, or the two screw type bits

, will adjust the tension on the cable. If you screw it out it effectively makes the cable sheath shorter taking out any play. Ideally you only want about 2mm play at the pivot of the lever where the gap opens up till the cable starts to pull, or about 10mm play at the end of the lever. If theres still loads of play in the cable, you'll need to take the side panel off and change the adjustment underneath the clutch. While your at it, wind the cable adjuster in most of the way (not all the way) and then change the adjuster underneath the clutch

Just make sure that when you finished adjusting things, check the tension on the cable with the bars at different positions, if its too tight the clutch could engage while you turn left or summit

Hope that helps

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:28 pm

Cheers for that. Spanners and screwdrivers at the ready. Just have to wait for to stop feckin raining now. Grrrrrrr.

Boonie · Post by **Boonie** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:30 pm

Ooops. Got logged out.

Boonie · Post by **Boonie** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 9:15 pm

Ok.... Adjusting now.....

Boonie · Post by **Boonie** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 9:37 pm

GENIUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Utter Genius. I can't thank you both enough. Not only has it resolved the clutch issue (by turning the two screw type thingies) but the bike now starts better, and I no longer have to use as much choke to get it going (bike is restricted so it can take a bit of coaxing at times).

Like I said... GENIUS!!!!!!!

Ah, my first steps to self maintenance... Watch it!!!!! Geez, you guys have filthy minds.

RedexRobB · Post by **RedexRobB** » Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:17 pm

Filthy, filthy indeed

No prob mate, glad you got it fixed, if you wanna have a stab at getting yaself a bit more confident with self maintenance, i reccomend Haynes MOTORCYCLE MAINTENANCE TECHBOOK. They sell em at Halfords and anywhere that sells books on the net, ISBN umber is - 1 84425 071 7

Boonie · Post by **Boonie** » Wed Jul 06, 2005 11:45 am

Book has been ordered from Amazon.co.uk

Cheers once again... I think

RedexRobB · Post by **RedexRobB** » Wed Jul 06, 2005 7:57 pm

You wont regret buying that book! Did wonders for me! Although i was already more than averagely competent with a spanner and screwdriver, a book like that gave me just that bit extra. Parts of the book showing you how to do different parts includes a ZXR400 in places

Bloody buggers, theyll make a manual for a CBR400, something that was never officially inported to the UK yet they wont make a manual for the ZXR, but they have pics in that book

Anyways, enjoy the book!

Boonie · Post by **Boonie** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 9:55 am

I'm an IT network infrastructure engineer so not unaccustomed to using the odd tool. Just have always been 'scared' of engines. Just afraid I'll break it I guess.

But it's time to grow up and get with the program.