Clutch Issue

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MillaMeter
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Clutch Issue

Post by MillaMeter »

Hi,

On idle, the engine seems to sound very quiet and has no clutch rattle. As soon as I pull in the clutch, it sounds like the plates are rubbing on each other on bare metal. Am I making any sense? Sounds very similar to when your brake pads run down to bare metal on the discs.

I've got some spare clutch plates in my other engine which seem to be in good nick, but what I wanna do is take the whole clutch out of the spare engine and swap it over because my current clutch isn't a slipper and the spare is. Does anyone know what direction to go to undo the center nut on the clutch? It's been a long time since I last took a clutch completely off and that was on a 125.

Regards

Rich
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by cargo »

Same as any other nut...........................
MillaMeter
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by MillaMeter »

cargo wrote:Same as any other nut...........................
Hi,

As in Lefty loosy, righty tighty?

Regards

Rich
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RedexRobB
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by RedexRobB »

Im guessing you wanna know incase the thread is lefty tighty, righty loosy?
MillaMeter
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by MillaMeter »

RedexRobB wrote:Im guessing you wanna know incase the thread is lefty tighty, righty loosy?
Hi,

Exactly, I don't wanna be wearing myself out and making myself unfit for work next week because I was tighting a nut instead of loosing it off...

Regards

Rich
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Scott221
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by Scott221 »

If you can see some thread, why not put a bolt the same size on, that way you can see which way you have to turn it to tighten/losen it. Or just have a real close look at which way the thread is going..
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by cargo »

Yes lefty loosy

Biggest problem is that as you undo the nut the clutch will turn with it...................you need a clutch holding tool or an air ratchet or impact gun.

The nut has a little lock ring thingy that stops it undoing when your riding the bike that make it quite hard to get off.

If your good with a wielder you can make a clutch holding tool with a couple of old steel clutch plates.................I use a air impact gun myself never failed yet but keep your fingers well out of the way
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by jack sharpezxr 400 L »

u shuud be able to tell looking at the thread
MillaMeter
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by MillaMeter »

Hi,

Ok, I gave up trying to get the slipper off I'll do that some other time I think. I've taken the clutch apart today and inspected the springs and plates and they all seems perfectly ok. They're EBC plates and springs and the plates have shed loads of meat on them still. I swapped the plates over with some other plates I had in the spare engine and the clutch still slips at 10k all the way up to 14k. I cant get my head around it. I've even tried loosening the cable.

Any ideas?

Regards

Rich
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jake
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by jake »

ebc are sometimes shite mate. You may get lucky and get an ok set, or you may get a shite set.
I had brand new kevlar ones last just over ten minutes...my mate had the same set all season.
also check the steels for any burnt bits. did you check with a vernier thingy?
problem is when they start slipping the heat warps the steels, then they make it slip even more...
i presume you aint using fancy oils?
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by MillaMeter »

jake wrote:ebc are sometimes shite mate. You may get lucky and get an ok set, or you may get a shite set.
I had brand new kevlar ones last just over ten minutes...my mate had the same set all season.
also check the steels for any burnt bits. did you check with a vernier thingy?
problem is when they start slipping the heat warps the steels, then they make it slip even more...
i presume you aint using fancy oils?
Hi,

The steels dont look burnt but do look very pretty (blue and purple) Don't know if you know but I got a zx400 engine in my L2 that has no slipper and the steels look totally different to the slipper ones, as in they have loads and loads of like little marks in them (not completely smooth like my other steels. I've swapped the EBC plates with some original kawasaki ones I have and still slips. I did try putting the slipper steels in but they are way too chunky and the clutch has way too much free play in the lever so I had to put the other 1s back in.

Oil i'm usin is Castrol 10W-40 and it's NOT fully or part synthetic

Regards

Rich
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jake
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by jake »

steels are blue? they have overheated and will probs be bent vsad check em, maybee on a peice of glass? dunno..
those other steels sound interesting, can you post a pix if you get a mo?

for what its worth, i used castrols semi last year and was plagued with clutch slip.
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by MillaMeter »

Hi,

This is not from a ZXR400 but you get the idea.

Look at this picture. The steel plates that will only fit in my engine and are currently in my engine look like the top steel plate. The ones that came out of my slipper L2 engine look like the bottom steel. See what I mean by little marks?

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w135 ... 0016-2.jpg

Regards

Rich
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by cargo »

Did you check the spring length?

Could be shagged springs ?
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Re: Clutch Issue

Post by MillaMeter »

Hi,

Spings seem to be well within the wear limit. I managed to get the slipper off today with the help of a clutch holding tool :smt003 Only thing I need to know now is, will I need the clutch housing aswell? I've only taken off the hub that holds the plates and springs etc...

If I do need to get it off, how do I go about it? only the huge gear at the back of the housing is like 1" behind the ignition cover inside.

Regards

Rich
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