www.zxrworld.co.uk

Had a read of the manual and a search but cant find anything that answers my question. Can i test the regulator/ rectifier without 3 batterys? I tested across my battery and the voltage was 13.7 but yesterday my battery when flat while riding. I am going to clean up the earths tomorrow and check it again aswell as the alternator output. Thanks hirsty.

Also are they interchangeable from L to H as mine is a H but my friend races L's and may have one spare. Same with alternators if i need one can they be used on both.

they are interchangeable ... there's different part numbers but only because one superceded the other.. there's lots of shitty pattern ones that fail randomly too ..

electrical systems are identical wether H or L with the exception that the L battery is 8ah rather than the H's 10ah

If you've got less than 14v across the battery @4,000 rpm sometings wrong

alternator output is easy to check iirc its ~43vac across 2 yellows .. but check the manual

theres a resistance check for the regulator in the manual where you can check over the pins of the regulator.thats how i checked wether mine was faulty.batteries also can die overtime 13.7v isnt that far out if it was at idle.make sure the battery has atleast 12.5v with the engine off.then check to see wether the voltage raises as you raise the revs.

It is a brand new battery but dont now if its the right one well it aint as it wont fit in to holder. Will that make a difference? And got it 13.9v with lights off at 4krpm surely if the regulator had gone it wouldnt be that. The battery is 12.6 with the bike not running. How do you do the resistance check i cant make head nor tail from the manual. thanks hirsty

yes it sounds like it has the wrong battery fitted but if the amp hour is the same or higher it should be ok (aslong as its secure).but your figures seem ok i wouldnt have personally said you had a charging problem.
not doubting you but what do you mean the battery went flat whilst riding?maybe its an intermitant problem which could more likely be bad earth or poor wiring make sure everything is secure and clean etc.

http://www.zxrworld.co.uk/Manuals/L%20M ... r%2015.pdf
thats the manual page 15 is the resistance check over the regulator

Well with the lights on it sits around 13.1-12.9v and the bike had to be bump started. Could someone explain the resistance check i cant make sense from the manual. thanks hirsty.

so what actually happened when it broke down?
is that idle voltage with the lights on or 4k?
have you checked all the earths are clean and secure and that all connections are clean and secure?
the resistance check is
pin 1 - 4/5/6 should be open circuit (no resitance)
pin 3 - 4/5/6 should also be open circuit ( no resistance)
try that first

surely there should be a range that the resistance can be? it says 1/2 scale on the manual what is that?

my battery is a ctx9-bs wich is 8ah but shouldnt a h1 be 10ah? Would that be my problem?

sorry i ment to say infinate resistance so should not be open circuit (pins should be connected)
wasnt reading the diagram properly.
the 8ah is how long the battery will last so yours is slightly too small, although this shouldnt affect charging.
i still dont no if you have a charging problem though...what happened when you broke down?
what are the voltages with lights on at idle and 4k?
have you checked all connections and earths?

I have read on here though that usuing a 8ah battery and a H rectifier it would burn it out because of the spare energy in the charging system. Dont know about idle but at 4k rpm lights on it is 12.9 and no lights it is 13.9 unless i have just rode it then it is about 13.1-12.9

Not convinced about the 'spare energy' tale, doesn't sound like any electrical phenomena I'm familiar with. It doesn't matter what Ah rating your battery is providing the voltage rating is correct - which it is. If you really want to you can strap a truck battery to your pillion and run your bike off that, it's not going to hurt anything, although you'll probably never charge it up of the alternator if you flatten it The only thing the Ah rating will affect is if it is too low then the battery will not be able to deliver sufficient power for high-drain tasks, like starting. Ah rating tells you that it will deliver a given number of amps continuously for 1 hour. It will deliver half of those amps for two hours and so on. It DOES NOT extrapolate the other way, i.e will deliver twice as many amps for half an hour - it will deliver less before going flat. So for starting, where high amps are required, a too low Ah rated battery will probably not deliver enough power for very long to spin the motor and fire up.

If your battery went flat while running, rather than giving you a starting problem, the slightly low Ah rating is not the issue (why didn't you buy the right battery BTW? ). You may have a charging issue. But with electrics you have to be methodical and eliminate things in stages, starting with the easy stuff first. If you thrash around trying all sorts you'll just waste money.

So, for the umpteen time of asking HAVE YOU TRIED THE EARTHS AND CONNECTIONS? That's your next step, then we can move on. Go do it.

hirsty wrote:I have read on here though that usuing a 8ah battery and a H rectifier it would burn it out because of the spare energy in the charging system

Tirpitz wrote:Not convinced about the 'spare energy' tale, doesn't sound like any electrical phenomena I'm familiar with. It doesn't matter what Ah rating your battery is providing the voltage rating is correct - which it is. If you really want to you can strap a truck battery to your pillion and run your bike off that, it's not going to hurt anything, although you'll probably never charge it up of the alternator if you flatten it The only thing the Ah rating will affect is if it is too low then the battery will not be able to deliver sufficient power for high-drain tasks, like starting. Ah rating tells you that it will deliver a given number of amps continuously for 1 hour. It will deliver half of those amps for two hours and so on. It DOES NOT extrapolate the other way, i.e will deliver twice as many amps for half an hour - it will deliver less before going flat. So for starting, where high amps are required, a too low Ah rated battery will probably not deliver enough power for very long to spin the motor and fire up.

If your battery went flat while running, rather than giving you a starting problem, the slightly low Ah rating is not the issue (why didn't you buy the right battery BTW? ). You may have a charging issue. But with electrics you have to be methodical and eliminate things in stages, starting with the easy stuff first. If you thrash around trying all sorts you'll just waste money.

So, for the umpteen time of asking HAVE YOU TRIED THE EARTHS AND CONNECTIONS? That's your next step, then we can move on. Go do it.

zimm wrote:they are interchangeable ... there's different part numbers but only because one superceded the other.. there's lots of shitty pattern ones that fail randomly too ..

electrical systems are identical wether H or L with the exception that the L battery is 8ah rather than the H's 10ah

What earths and conections should i check? I have done the one on top of the engine casing from the battery and got a new reg/rec fitted but still only get 13.7 and when i let off the throttle from 4k rpm it goes to about 14v. Thats with no lights on.