should coils have power on green and black wires?

[ross46]

Right, bikes not starting, ive checked and I have no spark, checked the whole ignition system and can't find an obvious fault though when I checked I had 12v at both the green and black coils. Is this normal? I always thought they where both a switched negative. The bike was running yesterday, stripped the insulation off the loom to find a short that was keeping the brake light on, left it last night as it was late, resoldered it this morning, went to start it and nothing! Checked all the wiring and can't find a fault, checked all the fuses and nothing wrong that I can find, just the power at the black and green coil wires which I dont think is right but can't remember, EDIT- just checked the pickup coil and the resistance flickers from infinity to about 600 ohms

[ross46]

Retested pick up coil- 439 ohms, tested on 1000 ohm setting rather than 100, all it does is move the decimal point. Getting a cdi sent to test (thanks banner) new regulator as the bike isn't charging (shouldn't affect ignition system as long as the battery is fully charged), coils are fine, HT leads are fine, spark plugs are, all fuses intact, which wire is the 100 ohm resistor on? Might aswell check

[noodleface]

am fairly sure (90%) the resistor goes between the white and grey wires in the ignition barrel.

-nf

[ross46]

Well the resistor is fine, unless it is a veeeery expensive resistor with less than 5% tolerance which I highly doubt. So ive checked the wiring multiple times and there is nothing I can find wrong so now onto component swaps, cdi didn't measure up perfect so going to try swapping it out, had a problem before with it not sparking and after swapping the fuel pump relay it worked so need to get one to try as mine measured infinity across all pins, any other suggestions welcome

[ross46]

so... im an idiot, just made a race loom for my bike as a basic loom just to check the ignition circuit and components, went into the manual... copied everything, looking for the resistor, and realised the manual says on the front (89 racing manual) DIIIIIIIICKHEAD. so just found the L model one and got to hope i havent blown anything

[ross46]

not as bad as i though, just move 1 wire! on the 89 diagram theres 2 grounds that you put into the cdi, but one in with the pickup coil, so move that to the other side where the green and black goes, and move a link between red and engine stop to the cdi in place of the grey wire, well 2 but either way, happy its not too much more work

[ross46]

right, bike still does not start, race loom done to L5 spec wired the red through the white ignition wire and back to the cdi through the grey wire to include the 100 ohm resistor, checked that there is power at all points their should be, checked every ground was doing its job, checked continuity in every single wire, and still no spark, driving me mental, dont have a clue what next, cansa, that mars bar still up for grabs? its driving me nuts, now i have to clean the house of bike crap otherwise ill have no balls left to ride the bike with!

[CaNsA]

cansa, that mars bar still up for grabs?

Yeppers, a kingsize one cos i'm feeling generous.

[ross46]

Right, completely untampered loom of an L9, 7000 miles, even got the original indicator connectors, £40 and I think the cdi is bust, only thing left is cdi and fuel pump relay

[ross46]

SHE WORKS!! New loom put in with a working cdi and it goes, will try swapping the old cdi in to see if it was really broken

[banner001]

excellent, ill be able to have mine back soon then

post it up whenever you are done with it

[ross46]

It used to be mine... Wish I hadn't sold it but needed the money same as the tyres, race front fairing, dynojet needles and seat unit, really liked that race unit

[banner001]

im giving it a good home, and a good repair, and a good spray