www.zxrworld.co.uk

The L-model wiring diagram is a lot clearer than the H-model, but ive tried to make it even easier to follow by making a full colour version. Ive tried to make it foolproof to see where the wire joins are (big spots), the wires are coloured like this, solid colour wires are their respective colour, the pale green is the "light green" of the manual, white wires have a solid black outline, wires where there is a solid colour and a stripe are drawn as a solid colour and a dot - i.e. black wire with red stripe is shown as a black line with red dots on my diagrams.

The main wiring diagram is now an attachment at the bottom of this thread - HERE

I have kept my oil pressure light as it serves 2 functions:- firstly, i like to know that the oil is in my bike and not flooding out on track, and secondly the light will only be on if your bike's battery is connected and the bike is not running...prevents you from leaving it on there accidentally. If you wish to remove this simply remove the 2 wires at any stage of your wiring build.

Note: Change the 30A main fuse to a 10A

1. Full wiring diagram


2. Remove horn, sidestand switch and neutral switch:


3. Remove indicators front and back:


4. Remove indicator dash light and turn signal relay:


5. Remove headlights and city light:


6. Remove licence plate light and rear/brake lights:


7. Remove cooling fan and wires from fan switch:


8. Remove headlight relay and wires to LHS:


9. Remove remaining wires connecting to LHS and clutch lockout switch:


10. Remove remaining headlight wires of RHS and neutral light:

11. Remove front and rear brake switches:


12. Remove speedometer/high beam/water/tacho light and associated wiring:


13. Remove ignition barrel, connect white to brown, and connect white to grey via 1W 100ohm resistor, remove 1 black wire from alternator:


14. Remove the brown and white wires going to the fusebox, connect the green/black wire to any available black/yellow wire and join the black/red and yellow/red wires together - you can now remove the fusebox:


After step 14 you have a standard race loom, this can be modified further:

15. Remove yellow/red and black wires from fuel pump relay, connect black/blue wire from fuel pump to red wire and ditch fuel pump relay:


16. Remove alternator and reg/rec:


17. Wire battery +ve end to 10A fuse and then to white wire, remove all others along with starter motor and starter relay:


This completes the full race wiring loom. Obviously the loom can be made even smaller and more compact by shortening certain wires (i.e. connect the green/black and black/yellow of the IC ignitor earlier), by connecting the white "ignition" wire to grey and brown closer to the IC ignitor and so on...but this would require me to re-write the "stock" diagram, which is not the purpose of this post.

This is not correct. You are showing a permanent live to your cdi when the battery is connected. Although you can switch the ignition off your cdi and 9v 'anit theft' are permanently live, not a good practice.

in practice though there is no difference, on my loom you need to have the battery connected and the kill switch to run to fire the bike...on the race manual race loom you need to have the battery connected and the kill switch set to run...i dont see the difference.

as my bike is total loss i remove the battery every time so i can charge it, also doing it my way is the way to do it from a stock loom, requiring you to only make 3 changes from the stock loom, as opposed to the loom in the race manual which requires you to make many more wire connections...its a simple guide for those people who are unfamiliar with electrics.

what you meant to say was:
"This is not the way i would do it. You are showing a permanent live to your cdi when the battery is connected. Although you can switch the ignition off your cdi and 9v 'anit theft' are permanently live, not a good practice."

and as i mentioned before, i leave my wiring like this, and with the oil pressure light wired in as it provides me with an instantaneous way to check if the battery is connected and that my bike is "live", and doing it my way again means that you only need to make 3 connections that the original loom didnt have, everything else is a case of clipping wires -> easier.

I had a CBR600 race bike that had a chopped loom.................it suffered a similiar problem that RMKD describes. If I left the battery connected for the journey home with the bike in the back of the van the battery would be near flat and incapable of starting the bike.
I wired in my own oil pressure light after I'd bought the bike as a road riding type at the time it brought me a level of reassurance

Leaving the CDI live is defo not good for it

Discharging the battery (when I forgot to disconnect ) reduces battery life.

The very hassle of disconnecting and reconnection the battery during a race meeting with 4 practice sessions and 4 races drove me nuts

And in the exciting aftermath of a race it was always easy to forget to disconnect

I just don't have those hassles now with my ZXRs and I charge the battery with it still in the bike via a little plug in connector on the bike.


Horses for courses I suppose

Instead of bickering about this how about a constructive post with a solution ?

OP doesn't want to add extra wires just snip so add a flip switch on offending wire.

Some racers don't want extra weight so snip offending wire and extend to kill switch.

Was that so difficult ?

MM!

BTW , top work on the illustrations banner

well said MM, and well done banner, youve obviously put a lot of time and effort into doing this to help other people, i know that i will find it useful!

cheers guys.

Thanks for the illustration!!!!
Thanks a ton! I'll print it in A3 color and i'll put on garage!!! It will be helpful! =

love the colour diagram!!!!!

thank you

This looks useful to me, will properly not leave anything live though, but fit flip switches in line.
All I need now is the time to do it

Amazing post, thanks banner for the time put in to it, this the same as the L5? I see no difference, trying to fix electric issues

Smokingviper1 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 25, 2019 9:22 pm

Amazing post, thanks banner for the time put in to it, this the same as the L5? I see no difference, trying to fix electric issues

The L5 colour wiring diagram is available on this site if you need it, it's basically the same, but the junction box has fuses for more electrical circuits (7 as opposed to 4 on the earlier bikes), if you are having an electrical issue make a new post and let's see if we can fix it

Sorry for the massive delay, but due to the number of email and PM requests i get for the wiring diagram i have made the largest and highest quality JPEG i can make and attached it to the bottom of this post, all whilst keeping to the 256kb limit

So y'all can stop bugging me now