www.zxrworld.co.uk

Had the TPS off to clean it (as best I could). Put it back where it was from the factory - pretty much fully redarded.
Was just wondering if anyone knew what it should be reading at tickover position because just lining up the washer marks didn't really cut it - it's so sensitive that just tightening the bolts can see the reading drift a fair bit.

Couldn't see anything in the SP manual. Ran a few searches here and online and nothing came up. Was clear though that a lot of other bikes seem to sit a fair bit higher at tickover position than the 0.45kΩ or thereabouts that mine is at(as does the usual Keihin TPS).
...but then then this one appears to have a narrower range than most(zxr: 0-4.7kΩ Most of the others: 0-6kΩ) so a lower setting would figure.

The bike's running fine. I'm just in a tinkering mood and as I was thinking of thinking of sticking it on a dyno to see how the fueling is I'd like to get everything else set nice first. With no listing in the manual though I'm kinda clueless here.

Hi there - I am restoring a 1996 SP and was interested to see you refer to an SP manual. I didn't know there was one, can you tell me where you found yours ? I am especially interested in a wiring diagram - I don't have the flatslides yet, I'm wondering if the bike will run without the TPS connected, or If it can be "tricked"

Sorry, I just meant the SP/F3 handout that's on the main site - it's not really a manual.
http://www.zxrworld.co.uk/zxr400/manual.html

Pretty sure I read a post somewhere on here about running without a TPS(maybe in the racing section...).
Certainly read a few posts about it on forums for other bikes, some folk make a loop on a connector to close two of the wires so the cdi runs at the advance setting for the top end of the rev range.
That sounds a little simplistic though.

Really I imagine you'd want 4.5kΩ(ish) across two of the wires and 0.2kΩ(ish) across two of them(1 shared wire). That's the way the 3 wires work when plugged into a TPS, you've got a connector at one end of the potentiometer, one at the other end and one on the arm(the shared wire)...
....so as you turn the pot the resistance from the start position to the arm increases while the resistance from the arm to the end position decreases.

I'll get you exact readings for what mine reads at full throttle (the numbers above are just 'for example's)...
...and take a note of which wire's which.

Thinking about it, no reason you couldn't just wire up a 5k pot and mount it somewhere handy. Then you could play with it 'till you found a compromise you liked.