www.zxrworld.co.uk

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... ryId_90898

Yes thats right, no more shall your home made paint job come off with a few spots of petrol, halfords recently released it, needs 2 weeks to cure before you can compound it and buffer. Well worth the money i would say.

Thought it would be usefulas i read a thread about someone spilling petrol on their tan whilst on the way to a track.

it's amazing the crap that gets sold to the unsuspecting public. almost all lacquers are petrol resistant once they've cured. note, "resistant"... if you leave petrol on there for a long time it'll still make it go white.

And why on earth would you ever even want to bother trying to cut, rub or buff a spray can lacquer finish.

not worth the money at all, buy the cheap stuff and leave it longer than a day before spilling crap on it.

whilst what you say is true ... of lacquer .. did you ever experience the awfulness that was halfords lacquer before this ? it was just acrylic paint without the pigment.. .. you couldnt buff it to a decent shine, and 2 months in the slightest whiff of petrol would strip it all off in a sticky mess.

this stuff isn't great, but it does work.. did the ZX-4 swingarm with wheel silver and a can of this.. and its holding up well.

that wasn't lacquer

it was clearcoat, which like you say is just a suspension fluid for pigments in gloss finished paints. as a clearcoat it did it's job fine apart from the fact it was in a can. a paint suppliers will usually be able to put an acrylic based lacquer in a spray can for anyone, i can get any lechler paint i want in a spray can along with lacquer, problem is i cant use additives in a spray tin and the spray pattern isnt conducive to a good finish. clearcoat can be buffed up as long as theres enough to cut into and you dont overwork any area. Clearcoat can give a much more glasslike finish for show work but isnt good for durability. Acrylic based lacquers can get a decent finish and petrol resistance but need careful temperature control while curing plus additives if your short on time.

The best type to use for durability/finish is 2k lacquer, but this contains isocyanates which means most paint shops wont sell you it and it's really really unhealthy to be spraying it without a full body suit and an airfed mask in a professionally fitted spray booth.

Also waiting until a topcoat clear has fully hardened before cutting or buffing it is making more work for yourself, about 24 hours after the final coat was applied is a much better time and if you can still use a rubbing compound to remove overspray on a fully hardened lacquer then it's petrol resistance and durability is going to be absolute skunk.

yeh, im with you on that ..

personally my spray painting is split between quick n dirty halfords matt black jobs, or 2 pack and a compressor.. which is indeed incredibly bad for you, i was ill and ing up nasty green gak for weeks after spraying my bike indoors with a shitty mask.

zimm wrote:yeh, im with you on that ..

personally my spray painting is split between quick n dirty halfords matt black jobs, or 2 pack and a compressor.. which is indeed incredibly bad for you, i was ill and ing up nasty green gak for weeks after spraying my bike indoors with a shitty mask.

i usually have bogies the same colour as whatever paint i'm spraying that day with any normal face mask, doesnt worry me too much though if it's not 2k