micron downpipes problem

[tng21]

Well after all this time of waiting to sort my bike out. Ive just had a mate round and he made me realise the micron pipes i bought arent going to work. The flanges on the end ( that goes into the engine ) are longer than standard so wont bolt up to the engine fully. Not sure weather to have a bit chopped off the end to make em fit?

then theres the fact of a metal pipe going from rear brake to pedal catches on the pipe, my old one has a purpase made dent in it to clear it. Ive also realised that the pipes arent all straight. 2 of them have slight bends in. so im not sure whats that about as the standards have straight pipes.

My mate has said weld up the holes on the standard can and get rid of the microns. I dont want to do that as the standard ones are, well, standard, and they're rusty to balls. So i wanted to put the new pipes on as they nice and stainless steel and wont rust. The pipes alsofeel a bit loose in theholes in the engine.

I cant remember who i bought them off (someone on here )so cant ask them for advice.

If tyou remember selling me micron downpipes then please pm me.

[masterofinsanity]

i'm assuming the microns are for an L model? they usually take a lot of fiddling and twisted to clear any obstructions, spray wd40 on the joints to ease assembly and don't tighten anything up til its in place proper.

[Scott221]

They take alot of fiddling about to get them in. Make sure you fully push the headers into the engine.

[zimm]

2nd hand micron systems are a giraffe to fit ..

pull the whole thing apart and attach each header to the head (tight enough not to wobble, but loose enough to rotate), then try and orientate them so as the collector will slide on ... (you'll need a lot of swearwords and perhaps a rubber mallett).. then fit the springs.. dont try to slide the headers into the collector as far as possible, if the rear section comes too far forward it will hit the rear brake torque arm (as mentioned)..

its something like that anyway ... they are awkward, but it can be done.. i fitted a micron system to an H1 yesterday

2 sets of exhaust gaskets helps

[tng21]

ok thanks for your help guys.

What springs are you on about zimm? I never had any springs come off the bike in anything i took off?

The thicker flange bits on the end of the headers ( the bit thats slots into the engine ) are they different sizes on L models? As these downpipes seem to be a bit thicker so dont push into the engine as much as the old ones so the clamps sit further away from the engine

[Scott221]

Remove the rad if you havn't already. Makes it a trillion times easier.

They don't push fully into the engine. They are longer than the standard pipes, that is normal. You should have two springs which connect the linke pipe to the four seperate headers. If you look underneath the system you will see 4 points where the springs attach.

[tng21]

cheers for that.

Well ive trial fitted it, not sure if ive done em right but they are on. me n my mate put one of the pipe into the engine and thought, they stick out a lot further, that cant be right. But if you saythey dont go all the way in that'll do for me.

and yes rad and oil cooler and everything came off. I knew with my limited knowledge that id have to take them off togive me a fighting chance lol

looks like its going to be a bit easier than i thought. but knowing me, maybe not.

Will get some pics up in a minute.

[tng21]

well here's what it looks like on. The can is on thebracket and justy resting against the pipe as ive not yet welded on the bolt on bit.

Also think the kink in the pipe makes it stick out a bit too far? sticks out further than the old one does anyway





the last pic is purely because of the kink in the pipe. It makes it stick out a lot further than my old one and not sure it that looks stupid.

[masterofinsanity]

looking good mate!!

[zimm]

looking good !

you should be able to get the link pipe in a bit closer than that, just grab it and apply some brute force in a twisting kinda way whilst pushing the collector further under the engine with your foot .. once its almost hitting the torque tube, its there.

's what i did anyway

[Scott221]

Looks fine to me....

You may want to get some new exhaust studs and nuts though.

[stug]

Are your two outside downpipes on the correct sides?
Looking at the pic it looks like they are shaped to match the inner pipes but should be swapped around.
Can't really tell from the pic though.

[tng21]

On the centre tube point. i did think that and its been like a bloody 4 piece jigsaw. I put them on in all different combinations. When putting the kinked ones on the outside, they sat higher than the inner ones this was the only config i found they sat right in the collector.

And yes new nuts and bolts will be put on. Are they also ment to be allen key jobbies with a nut half way up it? Im presuming not but kinda think its like that for the stud to stick out further to be able to undo em?

just spoke to me mate acrtoss the road, taking the bike over to his and he's gonna chop the bolt onbit off the old one and slice the microns and wled it on to em. Put the ART can back on and can swap for standard come mot

[tng21]

right well after re reading my post about the jigsaw puzzle with the tubes ive realise ive been a muppet. As i didnt know there were ment to be springs on the loops on the centre pipes of both downpipes and centre pipe i realised the hard way which headers go where.

Ive fiddled about some more and finally got them to sit nicely. Tucked under a lot more but its slightly touching that rod zimm spoke of. only very slightly. Is this going to be a problem? ill try bending it off it or something but will it be ok?

how it sits now

[Scott221]

They shouldn't touch anything.