engine spins but will not fire

[RedexRobB]

All the fuses ok? Also earths. Check you have a voltage on the coils, Should be the red wire that has a volatge on it, you might need to spin the motor over tho. Failing that it might be worth trying another CDI.

[raul]

i get voltage on the coils , and already tried with a diferent CDI ,

[RedexRobB]

ok, what voltage is it giving you? and does the voltage on the coils change as you spin the motor?

Have you checked the pickup coil?

[raul]

ok, what voltage is it giving you? and does the voltage on the coils change as you spin the motor?

Have you checked the pickup coil?

only checked with the ignition on no spin , will give that a go and how do i check the pick up?

[RedexRobB]

according to the manual you can just unplug it and stick a meter across it, theres only two wires; black and yellow, measure the resistance across them. It should be between 355-535 ohms.

Im assuming the voltage across the coils will go up and down as the engine spins as i reckon the CDI shorts the voltage to ground making the primary winding of the coil operate. Since your not getting a spark (which is the secondard winding) i can only assume thats not happening, which is why i suggested about your earths, the CDI and the pickup coil.

[raul]

done the earths , pick up measures 484 ohms ; i remember before when i used to put the ignition on the fuel pump relay used to do a click noise before spinning , that's not happening now ; i'm lost oh dear
the voltage on the coils drops from 12.7 to below 9 when it spins

[diesel]

im still all in for the immobiliser. its that that stops sparks being produced.

[raul]

im still all in for the immobiliser. its that that stops sparks being produced.

what do you mean? the alarm/immobiliser is out its no longer connected ; i removed it myself ,, could it have something more hidden somewhere?

[Davw]

When I removed my immobiliser it was a complete giraffe to do - and that was with the ignition working. There were various wires that when cut then needed to be reconnected into the loom- is it possible that you have missed one of these or have you end to end tested the ignition system wiring.

see viewtopic.php?f=37&t=6649

reality is - the bike was working before the immobilser drama so it makes sense that it is the immobilier - or immobiliser cut out that is the cause of the current problems

[raul]

only had to join back 2 wires red and yellow-red the rest where taped in and tested most of the ignition circuit (for continuity) will start again tomorrow , every wire on the ignition circuit

[diesel]

only had to join back 2 wires red and yellow-red the rest where taped in and tested most of the ignition circuit (for continuity) will start again tomorrow , every wire on the ignition circuit

but u said it was fine before i believe. be really simplistic. go backwards. check plugs. check them in a lawnmower that works if u have to. the fact you have removed the immobiliser and its not working says its the immobiliser. these things can actually be rooted deep into the engine so make sure u have double checked all the wiring. get another loom if u can and see what that does.

[raul]

thanks , loom is on its way now i will change the loom and if that doesn't work next will be a can of petrol and a mach that will do the trick for sure

[cargo]

A thought......................

I've been working on my Manx GP bike today and tried to fire it up for the first time after the full engine rebuild.........................it just would not go

Lots of lovely big fat sparks and it seemed the carbs were filling with fuel.................I cranked and cranked and still no go.................plugs out and heated so that I couldn't touch them and filled the rad with boiling water still nothing.................much head scratching................................then I realised the fuel pump was not pumping even though it seem like the carbs were filling.........................solution I just applied 12v directly to the fuel pump and away it went pumping like a goodun connected it to the carbs again pumped fuel untill carbs full and pump slowed then hit the button and way it went..................................now to find the problem why was the pump not pumping.............took a while cos I'm not the smartest......................and then I saw a red block connector......................whats that I thought.......................the light went on....................... fuel pump relay was missing :wanker ..................must have borrowed it for something else while this frame wiring loom and wheels was sitting the past two years................. :wanker

So did or does you now removed alarm ever have a connection with the fuel pump relay ? ? ?..................cos if it ain't working it won't start :wanker :wanker :wanker

[raul]

fuel pump relay -i suspect that's not working , suppose to click/arm pressurize the fuel when ignition on before turning the engine ; that's not happening since i removed the alarm , i mention it but no one picked on it so i guessed its not a issue not to fire ; can i by-pas the relay and connect the fuel pump directly ? just for a test run ,,,thanks

[raul]

replacement loom arrived ,already fitted no change; i noticed a bit of oil stains by Genny cover so off it went and boy a lot of oil in there , the stator coil was half submerged in oil ,dryed everything up , cranked the engine and measured for voltage all 3 wires 0v nothing , and the resistance between the coils is 1.1 ohms is my Genny gone ? if that's the case explains why i have little current to the coils to produce spark ,,if i put the jump leads of the car running should it fire/spark despite a knackered Genny? thanks again guys for all your support