brakes

[Highlander]

my race brakes are simply pish.. until heat gets into them you can pull the lever back pretty much to the throttle grip. When heat in them, they still three-four finger braking, and lever still coming back a good way.

Im running EBC Pro Lite Race Disks. With HH Sintered Pads.

The plan -

Strip calipers, split them and remove pistons. Clean pistons and calipers, so that they are cleaming. Blow out insides of calipers with air and bleed the system of brake fluid. Once cleaned replace piston seals, dust and fluid ones, and then replace pads with Carbon Lorriane Race ones.

Then change brake fluid, bleed system, and leave lever cable tied to grip over night with Lid of the brake fluid chamber.

Hoping for two finger braking with little movement and better braking.

Do ya think this should cure and improve braking. These calipers are off, L4 model, so have they been cleaned in what 10 years?

Will the Carbon Lorriane Pads do better than the HH Sintered ones. And are the EBC Pro Lite Disks good?

Im running goodridge braided hoses.....

[sloweracing]

Dont know why but the brakes on the zxr are not so good some times

The reason why is mine have been okay better than some i know but could be better so i thought i would strip them and rebuild wish i hadnt in the end i have no air but the lever is coming in im hopeing its the new pads that need bedding in to the disc we will see

I rebuilt mine new lines new seals internal as well as external and cleaned all the pistons up and renewed some of them

But what you have pad and disc wise should be fine mate are they new pads you have just put in they might need bedding in

Alot of people struggle with these calipers

Good luck

[RedexRobB]

If the lever comes right back to the bar surely thats the master cylinder that gone? I was told you should never be able to pull the lever right the way back to the bar

[cargo]

I change the brake fluid very regulary like every other meeting also the relationship between pad and disc material make a huge difference.

If I was running EBC discs I'd use EBC pads likewise for any others.

My bike has Kawasaki OE discs and I use OE pads and Mobil brake fluid. The cheap universial dot 4 stuff ( I got 12 liters of it FOC a couple of years back)

Never had a brake problem yet just been out to the workshop and tried the brake feels fine and less than half way travel.

[the-elf]

Carbon Lorriane Pads are ace. It sounds to me that one of two things has happened:
either your brake fluid is old and has absorbed some water. Brake fluid will absorb water even from the atmosphere and water lowers the boiling point of the fluid causing brake fade when hot. Try replacing the fluid with new stuff from an unopened container. I use 5.1 fluid (Halfords own brand is excellent and cheap).

The other thing is that your master cylinder has worn and is passing fluid past the piston when it gets hot.

Anyway its an easy job to rebuild the cylinders and after 10 or so years you will only improve them. Good luck.

[richie400ss]

i'm a bit of a know-all when it comes to brakes, but your problem could be any one or combination of:

dirty calipers
warped discs
contmainated fluid (including air)
something else.

you need to make sure that everything is meticulaously cleaned. the only parts that don't ever need replacement are caliper fluid seals (just clean them)

carbon lorrainne sbk pads are 'kin excellent. i use ebc hh, but only because they're cheaper!

as eld says, rebuld your master cylinder, it's easy and cheap. you can get a rebuild kit for most types. other thing to check is that you have the crrect type of master cylinder. people change them for some reason, and i know two race bikes which have 14mm. you should have 16mm or 5/8 marked on the body.

this week's top tip. once a month pump your pistons out and clean with bake cleaner and your wife's toothbrush.

[Rick.O]

My lever used to come back to the bars until I changed the lever, Strange cant make sense of that

Rick