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When removing the rotor and windings to run total loss, can you keep the starter motor, and do you have to modify anything or just literally remove the rotor and winding and its all done.

Havent managed to find a clear answer, also photos would be great too.

How are you planning on starting the bike?

If you have a rear wheel spinner thingy they pull the starter motor.
If you dont, then keep it.

Yes you can keep the starter motor if you want, if not you will have to remove it and find a way to block up the hole im guessing, and the windings and rotor can just be removed, though ive heard of people using the zxr250 rotor as it still reduces weight but is enough power for a track bike

ok so when people say they are running TOTAL LOSS what do they exactly mean? i thought it was to remove all the charging system ie, windings rotor and the charging part of the loom.
As all the racers i know that are running total loss still have a starter motor.

i want to keep the stater motor as its too much hassle without.

then just leave it in? it runs off a different circuit, main live off battery through starter motor and too ground. i thought i read somewhere all bikes must be able to start themselves? dont hold me to it. total loss is rip the charging system out (windings and rotor) i was just giving you another option with the zxr250 rotor. aaaaaand thread ! how do racers bypass the fuel pump? i know it is somehow linked with the ignition system so how do you bypass it to allow the bike to start? making my own test ignition loom just to get a spark as my fuel pump relay seems to be dead. thanks

Total loss remove the generator and fly wheel off end of crank then just leave on the starter gear.
why would ya bypass the fuel pump?

Not the fuel pump, the relay controlling it as it seems that my bike isn't sparking as the relay is dead and the black wire that controls the coil seems to pass through it

ok ideal so it is just that simple , it wont unbalance the crank etc removing the rotor?

Its just i thought i read somewhere that you couldnt remove the rotor without the starter gear coming out too. but if thats not the case then i'll crack on removing it

You can cut out the fuel pump relay and just wire the pump to the live/ground so it switches via the on/off switch.

Hi mate you need to remove the windings, which are simply bolted to the engine cover then remove the rotor and starter clutch from the end of the crank using a puller. You then need to remove the 3 M8 bolts and drill out the rivets that join the rotor to the starter clutch assembly. Chuck the rotor in the bin and re assemble the unit and use a bit of locktite on the M8 bolts. I can do it for you if you are close to Newbury berkshire

[quote="stevi5"]Hi mate you need to remove the windings, which are simply bolted to the engine cover then remove the rotor and starter clutch from the end of the crank using a puller. You then need to remove the 3 M8 bolts and drill out the rivets that join the rotor to the starter clutch assembly. Chuck the rotor in the bin and re assemble the unit and use a bit of locktite on the M8 bolts. I can do it for you if you are close to Newbury berkshire [/quote


ok so drill out the rivets on the inside there.



then i'll be left with this and this?
then just bolt the other part back on with loctite?

Just got a bit confused when everyone said its just remove the rotor ad its done , but when i did the starter gears had nothing to hold them in, this makes sense now.

You got it any probs let me know.

regards steve

That's exactly how I've done all 3 of mine, bike seems to rev up quicker without the flywheel. I can get pics of mine if you want to see an assembled one?

alanh wrote:That's exactly how I've done all 3 of mine, bike seems to rev up quicker without the flywheel. I can get pics of mine if you want to see an assembled one?

Cheers for the offer but i think ive got it now its all bolted back in and seems all right