www.zxrworld.co.uk

Have you got the splitter in the lines - since on bottom yoke - if so you might have air trapped in there

Good progress for little time buddy. Hope my insides don't look like that after being left for two years :S

No splitter on there running a race set up 2 lines from master cylinder 1 to each caliper, she was sat for 2 year but she hadn't been loved in a while before that

HI guys got my silencer fixed up here what was done,

firstly the before,


the new parts,



firstly get in there and give the header bolts a good soaking in penitrating oil the will round snap etc any one that had headers of will know they can be a pain................or not as mine were finger tight but if i hadnt soaked them the would of snaped thats my luck,


the bolts in to the silencer did round meaning it came of in one go,



next i shot this video and took the following image,



this video explains the first part of the build,


and this one shows the 2nd bit,



this is how i bent the metal for the spring loops,



and lastly this is it remounted,

Very nice work, and very well documented, if Mori man says your doing well you are and nice akra, what bike is that originaly off?

the akro was off a zx10r 2010, its got a couple of small marks on got replaced by insurance company and i erm salvaged it for £50

Have you had the head off on it ?

That looks like coolant crystals as I aint ever seen carbon look like that , however if my river prediction is right, well ......

Look at this, bike left with coolant in it and stored 3~5yrs - this is a CBR250RR engine, you just might notice valve shrouding as factory standard to up the ponies.

ross46 will be along shortly to give you more insightful help

not pulled the head yet..... the coolant level was low but the oil seemed quite clean if a little dark no water, how hard are head gaskets is it an engine drop on these while ive got it in bits if it needs it ill just do it saves bother later on.

Head removed from an engine on the bench in about 35 minutes today...................easy really simple basic common sense.

Of course the one thing about common sense is that it is just not that common

What have I done now?! the head gasket can be done with the engine in the frame, I prefer to do it that way as trying hold and move the engine will be difficult for little old me, but it should be quicker, if you do it in the frame getting the rocker and head off can be a bit awkward but just really needs a wiggle

You've not done anything ross46...............


Given how much needs to be removed to do a head gasket in the frame there is only a bit of wiring and 2 engine mounting bolts to go before the engine drops out.

I can get an engine out myself.................I use and old car jack to support it and then just lift it up on to my bench................it heavy but not so heavy that it cannot be lifted.

On the bench just use some wooden blocks to support it upright...................helps if the oil cooler has be removed and disposed of in the only place it belongs (a bin)

Once on the bench it's a dawdle to get the head off...you can see everything clearly and have timing marks properly lined up and most importantly your not grovelling around on the floor.....................I've got the radio on and a mug of coffee and all is at peace with the world as I work.

Before this day is over the gasket faces will be cleaned the valves will be out and if I'm very industrious most of them will be lapped in and good to rebuild.

cargo wrote:I've got the radio on and a mug of coffee and all is at peace with the world as I work.

Not just any old coffee either, you big barista

Sorry to bump this thread.

on a side note why does every one hate the oil coolers are they just prone to failing or do the hinder performance, i play with drift cars and we add oil coolers to help cool and keep oil in better condition.

hi guys ive been running some tests as im trying to avoid pulling the head im going to have to as my compression is low and my valve clearances although to tight,dont explain why my compression is from no.4 at 150psi down to no.2 at 95psi any why my question is this, the manual says to use the t marks in the crank as number 1 and 4 at tdc how ever when timing the engine it says both should be at tdc and now im very confused about timing it up when i rebuild.