www.zxrworld.co.uk

right, yesterday i got bored and spent the best part of 3 hours stripping her down, i took all the bodywork off, the radiator, the oil-cooler, the tank, the carbs, the coils and the rear sprocket. all the bolts are in little brown envelopes labled up, i'm gunna get them all replaced with stainless ones. its a bit dawnting going downstairs to the garage and seeing her in bits. the rear sprocket was absolutely fooked, the teeth were all curved and worn down even though the chain and rear sprockets have been changed recently. I've ordered a replacement though at £10 though so its all good.
the plan from here is to clean it all well and truely, dyno-jet the carbs and do some engine work (check valve clearances, change camchain+tensioner and do the headgasket aswell as a full service), upgrade the calipers, braided lines etc new master-cylinder, R&Gs and all stainless bolts. hopefully she'll be lovely and amazing for the spring.
anyways, anything anyone could advise me on please do, anything people want me to take pics of etc for archive reasons its all good so just ask.
cheers
dan

Nice one mate, try not to think of the bike as a whole and doing it all in one go, just do it bit by bit. Otherwise it will overwhelm you, i know cos ive been there and it was in far more many pieces than yours!

Check out the 'know your stuff' thread ive written a guide for what size stainless screws/bolts you need for the fairings

cheers
i took a few bolts down to acorn fastenings this morning, and they recon to change all my nuts/bolts/studs from fairings, sproket nuts, disc bolts, exhaust studs, hanger bolts etc... basically every nut and bolt you take off to take the engine out...
all replaced with stainless steel for a bargain of £15. pro-bolt can shove it for £15 lol
i've left the bike in bits in the gf's central heated garage atm with the engine in place. i've taken the carbs off and i'm gunna strip and clean them out one and a time tomorrow, then i'll stockpile all the cleaned and restored bits in the corner of her garage for when its all ready.. i just need some paddock stands now though so i can take the rear wheel off.. anyone who wants to donate some or give me a reliable short term option it would be greatly appriciated.
cheers
dan

Its nice to have new bolts on everything, good luck with the build dude.
Altho, i would'nt use, in my opinion like!, stainless bolts for ya discs and spockets...they should have high tensile steel bolts. just to be on safe side.

jake wrote:Its nice to have new bolts on everything, good luck with the build dude.
Altho, i would'nt use, in my opinion like!, stainless bolts for ya discs and spockets...they should have high tensile steel bolts. just to be on safe side.

agreed, never use stainless on any thing that is load bearing.

thanks, i've got the load bearing ones replaced now with high tensile steel, which i will get couted in some kind of corrosion prohibitor
cheers
dan

got a load of bits arrive today
got a new camchain (DID aftermarket jobby) £30, i know the standard one is £20.. but a mate has a DID one in his CBR600F and has done over 70,000 on it.. so they can't be bad. and its continuous.
camchain tensioner (with 467 miles on it, mates engine blew shortly after changing tensioner) £25
headgasket and base gasket £18
a coupon (gf brought it) for a local bike shop for £60, which says "new shims" to me....

I'll do a walk-through of how to change the camchain when i do it, and i'll post it all on here when i do. and a quick run through of how to do the rest of it as well.

cheers
dan

cam chain is easy to do, just hope that you have enough clearance between the moulding on the casing and the crank sprocket

did the camchain today, but ended up dropping the camera and cracked the lens... all in the name of zxrworld..
it was suprizingly easy. just start by having the bike stripped down.
Before i started the following things had been removed:
All bodywork, All infill panels, Radiator, Oil Cooler, Oil, Coolant, Exhaust and Carbs.
you wont need to go quite this far but for my good old proper clean it was necasary.
I then went down the lines of...
Remove Rocket Cover - Four bolts 10mm bolts
Remove Pickup coil cover - all 8mm bolts
Remove the pickup big round thing - (underneath the pickup coil cover, its the largest thing sat on the end of the crank) there is a 19mm hex head on it and a hexagonal headed bolt through the centre, you need to remove the hexagonal centre bolt i did it by using a 19mm spanner to hold the crank in place properly whilst turning the bolt in the centre)
Remove CamChain tensioner - uses a pair of hex headed bolts (there is also a little rubber bung at the top of the pickup cover hole, just pull it out it will need replacing later)
Remove upper chain guide (top of engine on camchain side) - two hex headed bolts (bloody tight, the front bolt is shorter than the rear)
Remove Camcaps - each has four 10mm bolts, which are tight, undo in a criss-cross fashion so not to warp the caps, theyre numbered and mine were all held together by a pipe running all the way around meaning i undid the bolts on each cam stagered taking off the two caps at the same time and with the same rate of removal
Remove Cams - they should just be able to be removed easily enough now just by adjusting the way the camchain fits over them. (NOTE hold camchain from falling into engine, i stuck a screwdriver through it)
Remove Front Chain Guide - just pulls out the top of the engine i didn't pull it all the way out, just enough to allow full leverage
Remove camchain off bottom sprocket - feed it off (mine did have the little "ridge" that stops it from being removed but it still came off rather easily)

When it came to timing up the engine again I would usually advise following the manual, however i set the crank in specific location and marked both the cams with a chalk board pen where they met the engine casing (the type of pen that you write on chalk boards and also windows and handily engine parts).
Now I reversed what I just did to put it all back on, all the engine covers that were removed had all the old gaskets removed and new ones put on where possible, where not (generator cover) I applied a small amount of silicon sealant to it all the way around and tightened it using the criss cross fashion. I followed the manuals (available to download at http://www.zxrworld.co.uk) for replacing and re-fitting parts at some (like the camchain tensioner) need specific ways of fitting. The manual doesnt say anything about putting locktight on the tensioner bolts but I recomend that you do, simply because they hold in oil when the sump is full and can easily rattle loose (5 seconds of work to risk running a dry sump).

I didnt use a torque wrench at all throughout, I know I should have but I did apply locktight where advise by the manual and I didnt overtight anything (only used a stubby 1/4" socket drive so not too much leaverage).

Now I hope that helps a little if you want any help let me know. The camchain cost £30 for a DID continuous one and the tensioner came second-hand from warehouse motorcycles in south godstone 01342 893847 for £20+VAT (including a near new cush drive).

Anyway new bolts and studs go on next week, then the rest of the bike back together for when I pass my test.

Many Thanks


Dan

I went to start it last night to find the battery I had just charged up actually couldnt turn it over... I used the snap on battery starter from work in the end.. which turned ift over nicely but no start...
so out came the spark plugs, checked i had spark.. which i did (sparks were soaked with fuel by this point) but they sparked fine.. so put them back in.. sit down.. stare... look at piece of paper with notes on it....
I'd only managed to put the coil wires for each coil on the wrong bloody one. changed them over, cranked it a little and off she went. The carbs are really really really badly setup for the exhaust system, were when i started and not balanced at all so anyone got a general guestimate of what setup to use with standard carbs, and full micron system. If it helps, when you open the throttle write open quickly (faster than you ever would when riding) it bogs and stalls and if you feed the clutch in quickly it stalls without hesitation. It also had a stutter about 12-14k before she was taken apart.
Having all the bodywork on her and having her running just makes me yern for the summer when I can actually ride her like shes meant to be ridden, i took her down the gf's private drive and back and apart from feeling a bit squirmy putting the power down and under braking(mud on the drive) she felt great, just wanna get some new calipers, crash bungs, braided lines and other stuff that will inevitably appear.
If anyone could help with the carbs it would be greatly appriciated.
cheers
dan

i have a micron full system (race can) and a k and n filter.

all i can tell you is i have #105 main jets fitted, it overfuels very very slightly but its damn near perfect and pulls well across the range.