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Dolts wrote:They look nice what exhausts do you have and prices?

Got a BEET Ti in a box somewhere - link pipe is cut down so was going to get a 130' bend and put a MotoGP can on it so it just exits behind riders pegs - Headers n link pipe as is 18,000 Yen or about 130 GBP

Over Racing Suzuka 8hr system - 40,000 Yen or about 280 GBP

Daishin Racing Aluminium alloy one piece - 25,500 Yen or about 185 GBP (this weighs under 2Kg ! )

RPM 4-2-1 - 12,000 Yen or about 85 GBP

Could have another system in a box Got my F3 but that probably will never be for sale

If interested in the BEET would need to know how you want it as is or a complete system, Ti bend needs bought , I have a MotoGP can in stock in Stainless but others can be sought in alloy or Ti.

MM!

Got an exhaust off ebay, not too sure of the make of downpipes/collector, but the battered can is Scorpion, not bad for £46!

ive got scorpion downpipes and they look pretty similar to them, although ive got an art can.so i think its a full scorpion system

Awesome thanks, how do you find them? Have you changed the jetting at all?

mines only a road bike, but ye its been dyno'd with different needles and jets still running standard airbox,filter and snorkel.cant remember what size jets are though.
bike still isnt perfect though as i think the carbs need a rebuild.

Mine is going to stay standard airbox, tubes etc for now too need to get it running then on a dyno to set the jetting and see if I need to advance the timing for the stick coils

Can anyone tell me if these are standard forks or SP? also is there anyway of checking my engine number to check i didn't buy a stolen engine?

They sure look it - they also have an adjuster below the caliper too , if not they aint SP

Only way is ask plod to check it

MM!

No adjuster under caliper, so must just be stock L model. who will be best to service them and the shock? What should i do to the suspension for the track? service and revalve forks and shock? or re spring too?

The very fact that your engine still has a number on it would indicate that it is NOT stolen

From memory ACU scrutineers will reject a bike that does not have frame and engine numbers and will report that to police...............

few things ive done recently...removed excess tabs from subframe....
Before

After

Rad and guard painted

worth repairing?


Went to replace the exhaust studs ans some were bent, and three of them snapped1 think now is a good time to strip and rebuild the engine as i dont know the history of it, i will get the head skimmed and can anyone recommend any other (cheap) mods to do now? porting/polishing etc, can i do it myself?


Also got some new embossed stickers from the BMF



along with this mug and Tshirt


Think the Tshirt would be awsome with a zxr400 design!

The fact that the caliper pistons are in the calipers will probably have preserved them from corrosion. You'll have to get them out without damaging them, which you should have done before splitting them so put them back together again. Best way to get them out then is with an air line or you can rig them up to a master cyclinder and pump fluid in to push them out. Any fluid will do, don't waste brake fluid unless you have to. Pump one side out first so the pistons are almost out, then keep those pistons pressed where they are while you pump the other side out. Then you split the calipers and remove the pistons. You'll need to get a grip on them and wiggle them free. You may have to use grips while protecting them from scoring with something. If you do put marks on them, providing the marks are on the very ends of the pistons which don't pass through the seals you can still use them. Unless the pistons are seriously corroded they are good to go. The calipers look definitely repairable to me, just clean up with emery and respray. New seal set from Wemoto and new pistons if you need to (although if you need new pistons that's when it could be uneconomic).

That corrosion on the faces of the pistons is no big deal, clean up with emery and put a smear of coppaslip on. When you put the pistons back in coat the bits that are exposed in red rubber grease. Do NOT use any other kind of grease, it will bugger up the seals.

I'd drill a hole into the ends of those snapped studs, then hammer a slightly larger torx or allen headed socket into the hole. Apply plenty of heat with a blow torch to the head around where the stud screws in. Then use a ratchet on the socket to unscrew them. With care they should come out of the head.

Wow it's been a while! Just a quick update! It lives! Fired first try after not running for at least 10 years! Needs balancing and setting up, but it idles, and first time I've ever done shims, there's no tapping! Will try to get a video up!

So recent work is as follows
Rebuilt carbs with new float valves Sears and seals dynojet stage1 needles and mains, blanked air correctors
EBC SRC Kevlar clutch kit with heavy duty springs
Fired it for the first time!
Now I need to balance the carbs and slot the pickup to advance the ignition slightly.
Source a zx6r shock
Refurb forks
Buy brake discs
Source gsxr 6 pots
Fabricate captive rear caliper mount
Paint wheels
Chain and sprocket kit

The list goes on