carb setup L model

bato · Post by **bato** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:51 am

Hi
How many turns out for pilot screw for L model ?
I see 2:1/4 for H model in the microfish but for L model I find in the some data 1:3/4.
Is that corect ?
Bike is standard (air ,exhaust,jets)
What you think for K&N air filter on the standard bike?

RedexRobB · Post by **RedexRobB** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:17 am

mine are 2:1/4, and thats an L model

Post by **zimm** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:21 am

bato wrote: What you think for K&N air filter on the standard bike?

pointless unless your OE one is shagged, and even then get one second hand one off ebay, or a fresh OE one.

bato · Post by **bato** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:24 am

Hows working bike between 3000 and 4000 rpm?

Post by **zimm** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:45 am

bato wrote:Hows working bike between 3000 and 4000 rpm?

eh ?

Post by **masterofinsanity** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 9:54 am

zimm wrote:
bato wrote: What you think for K&N air filter on the standard bike?
pointless unless your OE one is shagged, and even then get one second hand one off ebay, or a fresh OE one.

surely a K&N if it doesn't make any performance changes would surely be more economical as you can clean and reuse them?

Post by **rover220** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:02 am

masterofinsanity wrote:
zimm wrote:
bato wrote: What you think for K&N air filter on the standard bike?
pointless unless your OE one is shagged, and even then get one second hand one off ebay, or a fresh OE one.
surely a K&N if it doesn't make any performance changes would surely be more economical as you can clean and reuse them?

that does seem to be the only benefit on a mildly tuned engine. but they do cost the best part of Â£40 new.

bato · Post by **bato** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:56 am

thanks for posts I am folow yours advice for air filter.
But carbs is my night mare.
I change needles complet,needle valves with orings carbs are balanced.
but something is wrong.
When bike stop some time I must starting engine with lot of trotle.
When bike working and swich off and after that starting start is ok without trotle.
I didnot see fuel licking in the carbs.

I am sory about bad english

Post by **masterofinsanity** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:58 am

see here http://zxrworld.co.uk/zxr400oc/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3391

bato · Post by **bato** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:14 am

ok I am looking that post but my bike have starting problem when not working some time hot or warm dasnt meter.

Post by **masterofinsanity** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:15 am

could it be fuel pump? or ignition, sometimes i can turn the ignition on and hit the starter and the bike doesn;t fire, i turn the ignition off and back on and it fires straight away.

Post by **zimm** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:22 am

could just be the fuel in the float bowls evaporating so sometimes it needs cranking for long enough for them to refill as the pump only works when the engine is spinning over ..

you live in a warm country by any chance ?

cos that'd do it.

EDIT: does it spin over REAL quick on the starter ? if so, its valve clearances.

bato · Post by **bato** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:12 pm

for now is 38 C temp

I think bike loosing fuel from carbs but how?
I cant see that licking in the carbs.In the night is not too much hot.
Problem comes when bike staying some time .

Post by **zimm** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:18 pm

bato wrote:for now is 38 C temp
I think bike loosing fuel from carbs but how?
I cant see that licking in the carbs.In the night is not too much hot.
Problem comes when bike staying some time .

there's your problem.. its just too warm for it. Mine was the same in the Alps in the summer months, and its only about 33 C there !

its not leaking, its evaporating.

www.zxrworld.co.uk

carb setup L model

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