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Miles wrote:If you undo the positive cable then connect another piece of wire directly to the starter motor terminal, from the positive terminal on the battery, it will spin by its self as you have bypassed all switches.

This will tell you if the solenoid is at fault or if the cables from the battery-solenoid-starter motor is the problem.

Obviously if the starter motor doesn't spin then it's either the battery or the starter motor it's self. Or a bad piece of wire that you used to test

Okay heres the test results..

I couldn't get the starter motor to go off of the battery but I think its because I didnt do it right..

Anyway electric side.

Battery - 12v
Across the solenoid -12v
From solenoid to starter motor point 181 of a volt (.181v)

Ive never known a motor work off of .181 of a volt.. Am I wrong? I think its the cable from solenoid to motor is dead? Any ideas?

The starter motor worked outside of the bike when it was resting on the frame.. What does that mean? Bad earth?

Well that means the starter motor is working so you can rule that out. Check all the earthing points on the bike is clean them up, make sure your getting good contact.

You won't get power from the solenoid-to-starter motor unless you press the start switch. Measure it with the start switch pressed

Miles wrote:Well that means the starter motor is working so you can rule that out. Check all the earthing points on the bike is clean them up, make sure your getting good contact.

You won't get power from the solenoid-to-starter motor unless you press the start switch. Measure it with the start switch pressed

Okay, with the alternator cover off and the gear spur removed between the starter motor and the one way clutch cog, the starter motor spins attached to the engine case, with the multimeter on the connection it reads 11v.. When the spur is connected the 3 move about 1 - mill then stop, when I release the button it moves backwards the same?

Could my engine be seized or hydrolicaly locked?

I really really really appreciate you being so patient with me im trying to get this sorted between 12 hour weekend shifts at work lol.

Stupid question but it isn't in gear is it?

Take the pickup cover off, opposite side, and try turning the engine CLOCKWISE, 19mm socket if I remember.

That will tell if the engine is seized

remove the spark plugs before trying to turn it over, it's easier to feel if anythings up .. actually, it could even be the plug tips hitting the pistons at TDC if the heads been skimmed.

Miles wrote:Stupid question but it isn't in gear is it?

Take the pickup cover off, opposite side, and try turning the engine CLOCKWISE, 19mm socket if I remember.

That will tell if the engine is seized

zimm wrote:remove the spark plugs before trying to turn it over, it's easier to feel if anythings up .. actually, it could even be the plug tips hitting the pistons at TDC if the heads been skimmed.

Lol no it's not in gear, il try and turn it over tonight when I finish work. As far as I'm aware the engine internals are completely standard other than the charging system removal.

With the starter motor getting a reprieve I'm leaning more to a hydraulic lock or a seizure.. Last owner said he started it up a few times then it just stopped.. And that was it, wouldn't restart.

Thanks to everyone that helped, but the engine is siezed good and proper so it's up to the mechanic now.
Cheers for your help with everything!

John

The engine is genuinely siezed.
It's dropped 2 exhaust valves on cylinder 4
But there is all bits in engine so is going to want a full strip.
The bikes coming back so I can drop the engine out myself and get it ready and keep Cost low but a second hand engine is £350 but is more hassle to collect and prep etc plus we know this engine more than sone random second hand job which could die in a week.. So..

Here's the culprits..

aye ^ that'll do it