www.zxrworld.co.uk

if you pull the pickup out of the engine, grind the flanges off the back and elongate the mounting holes, you can slide it forwards a mill or so .. which gives more static advance .. which makes it more responsive good huh ? cheaper than an "ignition advancer" anyway .. specially as they dont make them for the zxr

ive moved it about 1.5 mm, i'll see how it goes, could probably double it, but the further you go the more likely it is to "pink"/"detonate"/need expensive fuel .. I just want a perkier response, and i didnt have time to port/skim the head, so the rest of its pretty much stock, although its running slightly raised compression, a fruity pipe, and well setup carbs .. oh and a 14tooth front sprocket.

first impressions are its worked a treat, off-idle response is awesome, and it revs through the midrange almost instantly instead of winding up like a stock bike.

i just hope to god its dry tomorrow.

its not bad ...

the tyres are awful, no feedback at all, and the forks are a bit skitty (seals shot), and the clutch slipped for the first 20/30 miles ..

but the engine is ace .. running maybe a tad lean at the topend, but its hard to tell, it hit the limiter in 6th, (14/45) so, it aint doing badly.. might just feel weak at the top because the midrange is so fat

so far, can recommend the pickup mod whole-heartedly, ok this engine was smooth before, but now.. how can i best put this ... it pulls seamlessly from 2000 rpm in top on full throttle, without bogging down ..

now to tear it apart again so some local monkey can do the fork seals for me while im away clearing out my mums house in scotland for a week.

well, maybe i'll take it apart later ..

after ive used another tank of petrol ..

well, thats that for the "build" part of this bikes stay with me.. so to sum up,

bike £830
rebuild topend £20
clutch plates £35
oil/filter £20
fork seals + oil + labour £100
rear shock £free
front sprocket £free
Tyres (gpr alpha 10's) £180

Total £1285

stuff still to do,

get it setup on a dyno
track bodywork
rearsets
hel braided lines
HH pads
chain
rear sprocket (bigger)
KBATL clutch
beet exhaust

all this stuff can be done slowly over time.. its good enough to be going on with as is. Runs ok with no flatspots, out accelerated several tuned aprillia RS250's yesterday at pembrey, and the handling is/was good enough that i didnt feel the need to fiddle with anything, although the rear shock had started to "go off" a bit by the end of the day.

all in all im very glad i bought an H, the whole feel of the bike suits me better than the L's ive ridden.

given a free choice though, next time (arrrrgghhh) i'd get an H2, just because slightly more L bits will fit with slightly less effort...

valve clearances done and micron fitted today ... along with new CCT just for the sake of it ..

need a new camchain though .. its not rattly, but has obviously stretched as the cam timing is always a smidge out whichever way i move the cams.. ended up one tooth advanced over where it was.. ran like that, and runs like this .. isnt right in either case .. lol

i think a walkthrough guide on the pick up would be a good idea!!

parby81 wrote:i think a walkthrough guide on the pick up would be a good idea!!

peice of piss, will take 30 mins tops to be out riding it again.

remove right fairing, remove 6 8mm bolts holding timing cover on, remove pick up, grind it flat, enlarge holes, re-fit slightly further to the front of the bike (a couple of mill) and refit everything else.

job done

yeh, its not hard and has now been described in 2 threads and 3 posts ..

bit of shameless pic whoring ..

pembrey, 6th june.









i need to hang off way more.. bike was good though.

been fettling;

new screen
new camchain tensioner
new camchain
pipercross air-filter
adjustable (dynojet?) needles on 2nd clip from top (and rebuilt carbs replacing the sliders as two had dodgy diaphragms)
full micron system
re-set valve clearances inline with race-kit manual (well, ish .. have you ever heard a zxr with .28mm exhaust valve clearances thats not at full temp ? its nasty)

result ?

clattery as f*** from cold .. (larger valve clearances), the headers are blowing a bit as the system is a bit um, bent, hopefully it'll sort itself out, and the carbs arent quite right but i'm not sure if its lean or rich, it bog's momentarily if you crack the throttle at low revs, and the midrange is a bit fluffy.. which says rich, but it seems better once it's warmed up, which says lean. Pretty sure the mains are too small though (102 keihin's) as it still seems a bit weak at the topend

sounds good, and makes nice popping noises on the over-run though

i'll have a play with the needle heights, but it can go on a dyno in a couple of weeks when the next few bits have arrived, or it'll just need doing twice.

MOT this morning, so fingers crossed.

good luck with the mot mate. i think you should do a beginners guide to carbs for us dummies!

mot passed !!

even though the chain was slack, back brake wasnt operating the brake light consistently, i'd forgotten to fit the pillion pegs and its got a full race system..

i like these people

(they know its a trackbike though, and all the road kit was coming off again anyway.. and the next bike up for MOT was a show winning 1200 bandit streetfighter with rotating milli gun exhaust ! lol -- that passed too)

i dont know much about carbs Baz, i just swap stuff about and try to remember what made things better/worse ... lol

i've now got 4 different sets of needles, a pot of jets.. and 3 different types of carb .. all off zxr's .. its just pick n mix really

currently it's good enough not to warrant stripping it all down again.

interestingly, i've ended up using stepped needles rather than smooth taper ones in both the black H1, and the ZX4, they seem to give a clean midrange, and strong topend surge where the smooth tapered ones i can only get good at the top, or the middle, or its a compromise everywhere.

yet i've never seen stepped ones fitted as stock..

N770 > L4 smooth taper
N77C > H1 smooth taper
ZX4 > stepped
??? > stepped and adjustable (may be dynojet, but am pretty sure the dynojet ones i had in the L4 were a smooth taper.. could be wrong though)

after much head scratching i've decided to re-fit the N77-C needles and pair them with some #105 main jets on the understanding that i shouldnt be relying on the needle profile to give me the topend, and the N77-C's gave the nicest midrange.

time will tell.

also ordered a 47th rear sprocket.. and there's some other nice things in the pipeline.

jets fitted and carbs balanced, but its pissing down, and i dont like getting wet.. so god knows how it pulls, seems fit revving it up in neutral though .. lol

was hoping the sprocket and stuff would materialise today, but no luck so far..

got a chance for a quick play ..

its better.. no flatspots, and the topend's stronger to the point where some of the crests and bump's i could take pinned in 4th/5th i now have to back off a touch for..

renthal 47th rear sprocket's just turned up, so i'll chuck that on.. 14/47 is going to be a bit low for the road, but should be fun

Beet,







looks great, sounds great, nuff said.