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Here ya go, see what ya make of this (more than me no doubt lol) The wires are pink, brown & black/yellow...Can i get away with as has been mentioned just getting the board out of the speedo and connecting it?

right, that makes things easier ..

its not an SP (sorry), thats a standard H1 cdi unit, follow the instructions as found elsewhere on the forum.

of the three wires going to the speedo, one is 12v, (brown) one is ground (black yellow), and the other goes to the cdi (pink).. this one needs passing to ground via a 10kohm resistor. Easiest to do this under the seat by the cdi insted of up by where the clocks used to be.

zimm wrote:right, that makes things easier ..

its not an SP (sorry), thats a standard H1 cdi unit, follow the instructions as found elsewhere on the forum.

of the three wires going to the speedo, one is 12v, (brown) one is ground (black yellow), and the other goes to the cdi (pink).. this one needs passing to ground via a 10kohm resistor. Easiest to do this under the seat by the cdi insted of up by where the clocks used to be.

oh well can't have it all...got plenty of the bits. when you say pass to ground you mean connect the pink to the black/yellow via the resistor if i do it at the clock end and leave the brown redundent?

Carter wrote:when you say pass to ground you mean connect the pink to the black/yellow via the resistor if i do it at the clock end and leave the brown redundent?

yep !

(although, i've never done this, i rewired the whole bike to take a uk spec L model cdi)

wouldnt worry too much about the sp/non sp status ..

from a performance point of view its only really the cams that matter, they can always be fitted later

sp shocks are just as crap as normal ones, the gearbox is a love/hate thing, and the ignition unit/loom/rotor is a) unobtainium, b) needs to be fitted as a complete kit and c) not as good as a programmable ignitech box anyway.

i would like some J2 forks though.. but once re-valved/resprung properly the extra adjustment becomes a bit redundant

if i had a genuine sp, i'd restore it into a mint roadbike, for track/race use ? i'd build on an H/L with modern suspension/ignition and a decent tune.

zimm wrote:

Carter wrote:when you say pass to ground you mean connect the pink to the black/yellow via the resistor if i do it at the clock end and leave the brown redundent?

yep !

wouldnt worry too much about the sp/non sp status ..

from a performance point of view its only really the cams that matter, they can always be fitted later

sp shocks are just as crap as normal ones, the gearbox is a love/hate thing, and the ignition/loom/rotor is a) unobtainium, and b) not as good as a programmable ignitech box anyway.

i would like some J2 forks though.. but once re-valved/resprung properly the extra adjustment becomes a bit redundant

if i had a genuine sp, i'd restore it into a mint roadbike, for track/race use ? i'd build on an H/L

Cheers zimm, owe ya one. sure I'll be back with more questions! next task to remove the ignition barrel and rig it to the run stop....see what that has in-store lol

Hi
Ive made a derestricter for my h1 just want to confirm that ive done it right Ive looped the brown live wire on the 4-5 pin plug to the black that goes to the cdi With a 10kohm 1 watt resister this correct TNX

As said by tk400 "limiter = pink wire to ground via a 10Kohm resistor"

ive looked at my wires got no pink what so eva ive got a brown, yellow&black, Black Black goes striaght to the cdi so would think that u need to send power down the line to the cdi so ive looped a 10kohm resister between brown (MAIN LIVE) To Black (to CDI)

IS THIS RIGHT?

You appear to be talking about the ignition anti tampering circuit not the speed restricter. Is this correct?

Hi M8
Nope iam looking to derestrict my h1 so i dont get the 112mph speed limiter in 1 of yours posts u say loop a 10kohm resister from pink to ground i have no pink wire & after studying my wiring diagram (Very Hard As Diagram Is Very Bad Quality) the only wire i can see that runs to the ic igniter is the black so that must be that pink wire u mension, So do i loop black to black&yellow OR Brown To Black ??? TNX

Sounds like you don't have a speed restricted model. Are there any wires going into the Speedo other than lighting and ignition.

Hi Tk400
Ok Ill start from the begining i have an h1. (89) I was looking tho this site to see how to get rid of the 10000rpm restricter as ive streetfighterd mine, And the clocks are to big and ugly to stay so i removed them for a digital mountain bike speedo, and works fantasic goes right up to 140mph (I wanna see a person ride a mountain bike to 140) OK the ignition barrel end i have a spare plug as i unpluged the clocks, on that plug i removed from clocks is a 5 wire plug it has these 5 wires Yellow&Black, = (EARTH) Black, = (Goes To Ignition Coils, Fuel Pump Relay, IC Igniter) Brown, = (LIVE) Yellow/White, = (Water Temp Sensor) Red&Blue, = (Power For Back Lights On Tachometer & Water Gauge When Lights Are Turned On) As shown on h1 wiring diagram

Now on the diagram @ the IC Igniter end iam confused the wires on diagram show
(Right Plug) = Grey, =(To 1 Of The Ignition Coils) Black, = (To 1 Igniton Coil & Fuel Pump Relay & Tachometer) Black&Yellow, =(Earth) Red =(From Starter Button & links with Start Button & Both X2 Igniton Coils)

(Left Plug) = Yellow, =(From Pickup Coil) Black&White, (Also From Pickup Coil) Grey&Black, (To Start Relay)


On my IC Igniter its a Denso Z Box it has
(Right Plug) = Black, Red, =(Same As Above) Green, Black&Yellow =(Same As Above)

(Left Plug) = Yellow, =(Same As Above) Black&White, =(Same As Above) Green&Black & The Famous PINK WIRE (the pink wire is the IC Igniter end but theres not 1 the Ignition/Clock end WHY??) & None of the H1-H2 & L1-L4 Diagrams Shows Any Pink Wire WHAT SO EVA

So any ideas on WTF is going on here TNX

PS. ATM ive put a resister 10kohm 1 watt between my earth (Yellow&Black & Black) Ignition End IS THIS RIGHT

Wears This Pink Wire Which I Cant Find Tachometer End ? But There Is @ IC Igniter End ! WHY ?
No Diagrams From H1 - L4 Show This Pink Wire In Any Of There Diagrams But Ive Got 1 WHY ?
But Surly There Would Have To Be A Pink Wire To The Tacho End In Order For The Tacho To Indicate To IC Igniter To Restrict To 10000RPM

TAKE A LOOK AT THE TACHOMETER WIRING FOR H1
Downlink Here http://www.2shared.com/photo/hQrTP-iQ/Z ... ll_Co.html

Ok
The pink restriction wire from the CDI connects to the black wire which comes from CDI, Which runs to the spark plugs, tachometre & CDI, So all u should have to do is cut the pink wire CDI end. And the Pink wire bit coming out of the CDI Connect to a 10k OHM resister then to GROUND black/yellow wire or even to the frame CORRECT?

Sorry I cant help you out with this - never needed to tackle it.

When I do the 2nd build I will just use another one of these "speed off " boxes while using other clocks.

Here ive put a new diagram up with the pink wire on (Pink goes to the Black) from CDI, Spark Plugs, Tachometre, Fuel Pump Relay. Do I cut the pink wire from CDI & Attach the bit of wire left from CDI to a 10k OHM 1Watt Resister to Frame/Earth Wire (Black/Yellow)

Download Link http://www.2shared.com/photo/OXAyPSdk/Z ... ll_Co.html

Look I will go out next couple of days and see what the fook this Pink wire is doing , from memory it doesn't just end at CDI

The speed off block deals with three terminals , I suspect it is grounding the pulse but I havent needed to be concerned about that.

MM!

If its anything like the honda you will have

Power / Earth and Sense (trip).

The sense / trip wire when triggered does something to the ignition box to buggar the revs up etc.

So if it is that wire it might just end at the ignition box.

If you unplug it the ignitionbox knows that there is no load on the power / earth lines and knows it has been disconnected.. on the Honda bikes you can put a resistor across as a ballast that will fool the ignition box into thinking the restriction gear (which is trigered by a disc in the speedo) is still attached.

could be barking up the wrong tree but i thought id share what ive found out on the hondas.