www.zxrworld.co.uk

I've upgraded to the recommended stick coils and loom. The bike runs fine now, starts up ok etc etc.

However, when it's idling after a few seconds or so it will go all 'lumpy' and uneven and then stop

Anything above idle it's much better, noticable improvement in low-rpm running.

Has anyone else had problems like this?

Many thanks.

Sounds like my problem but with old stick coils! im hoping new coils remedies this problem!

Had to have it above 2000rpm idle to get back from work.

I'm going to make sure there are no weak connections in the loom and test all the coils.

Failing that i'm buggard

Does it cut off from 4 cylinders down to 3? Did yu have slightly similiar problems before you done the stick coil mod?

When was the last time you had the carbs balanced? Check the suction on all the carbs as well, make sure they are all taking in a good volume of air.

To be honest it sounds more like it cuts down to two or one then dies.

I'll get a video up if I can't crack it.

Carbs have been cleaned spotless and balanced along with valve clearances.

Didnt' have the issue before I put the stick coils on.. i'm currently thinking.

-Potentially bad stick coil. (but why would this affect idle and not anything else)
-Bad connection in loom
-Poor battery / electrical system (battery not providing enough power at idle)

I'm going to re-solder the entire loom and test the electrical system, especially battery voltages when it starts to splutter and die.

It's a strange one!

Hey i dunno if your bike almost instantly drops down to 2 cylinders but if it does that means ur only have 2 warm down pipes on the header! , if this is the case swap ur coil sticks around and if the other down pipes get warm, then this is a sure fire way to know for sure if you got 2 faulty coil sticks

Good call, i'll try that.

Thing is I ride just over 50 miles a day to / from work.

As long as I keep the revs > 2000 it's totally fine.

If worst comes to worst i'll just ditch the stick coils.

***Development***

When its' idling.. if I apply the brake (front or rear) or wait till the fan kicks in, the bike splutters to a grinding halt and dies.

Seems I have power issues then!

Bad earth?

Where are the earths on these bikes.. I think I clocked a brown / yellow one down by the fuel pump?

what state's the charging circuit in ?

is the current draw higher with the 4 coil's being fired as 2 pairs compared to having the original pair firing singly ?

zimm wrote:what state's the charging circuit in ?

is the current draw higher with the 4 coil's being fired as 2 pairs compared to having the original pair firing singly ?

I suspect it might be, which is revealing a poor charging circuit.

However, the bikes used everyday and the battery spins the starter motor over really well.

Still. i'll get the meter out at the weekend, would be useful information to measure current draw differences between stick coils / standard coils.

I also have 55/60w bulbs in the bike instead of the 35/60watt J-spec bulbs.

This is 110watt instead of 70 watt...

The uk bike has the same charging system as the Japanese bike though as far as i'm aware?

I have been having a similar problem since swapping to coil on plug. I immediately chalked it up to carb adjustment/malfunction. Wind the idle up to 2k and no problems.

I tested the alternator output. Per the manual @ 4k RPM I should have no less than 43VAC. I get 53, 43, and dum dum dum 40VAC. The regulator appears to be functioning flawlessly I get a 13.8VDC at 2.5k RPMs and a max of 15VDC when rev'd. So a slightly off stator seems to have a big effect on idle with the higher current draw of a C.O.P. setup. I will Ohm out the windings at let you know what I find.

Sorry I can't be of any help here as I've had no problems on my H with them.

Bike ticks over hot or cold with out hick-up.

What stick coils are you both using to see if there is commonality there ?

MM!

636 coils can't remember which year off hand. The cold start up is fine, the hot start is slow to fire. Warm starts a touch faster than hot. Which makes sense in the electrical dept. I tested the voltages on a cold motor. Any money if it were hot I would get less or none from the low winding.

Hi,

Personally I would double check the connections on the coils plugs where you've hooked them up to the loom, When I done mine, it would only run on 3 cylinders then 4 then 3 etc... turnt out to be 1 of the bullet clamps had snapped and the connection was sometimes touching via engine vibration. Just double check all connections and nothing is touching other wires or the frame.

Or maybe you got a dud plug? Earth points: 1 at the fuel pump, 1 just above the gearbox on top of the engine and 1 bullet type earth on the negative side of the battery.

Regards

Rich

Cheers all.

I'm using CBR600 Denso coils.. 2003 model I Think.

Resistance over the coils are 3 ohm per set (which is in spec)

I'll test the electrical system and solder the loom as opposed to bullt connecter them.

Test each coils restance.

Will crack it