Bike Smoking

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ross46
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by ross46 »

"this OF COURSE is not true" :smt017 them top bolts are as cargo said a low torque, is any of the bolt sitting proud? Irrc the end of that bolt actually hits solid metal rather than just the flange so they're quite easy to snap, hope you get it out with too much trouble as it goes into the cam cap so be careful! And dont worry about cargo, he's harmless really :tease
rmkd177
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by rmkd177 »

banner001 wrote:torque wrench...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keyw ... yra9i4bo_b

cant work on a bike without one.
What a joke....using factory settings ? on 20 year old ...nuts,bolts and casings...a sure recipe for disaster.
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banner001
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by banner001 »

no problems here so far using the stated torque settings.

ive had problems setting things too loose, but never to the correct torque.
UK ZXR400 L3 (1993) - Fully restored and on the roads, my green beast!
JPN ZXR250 A2 (1990) - Revs to 19,200rpm... 'nuff said :smt003
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KwakKwak
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by KwakKwak »

banner001 wrote:torque wrench...

cant work on a bike without one.
Surely you mean two or three even, as every time you go to use your current one, the required torque is always slightly lower than current wrench, Sealey 2-24 on that link was my third (and poossibly final one)

Nowt worse than guessing, nowt better than knowing.
Does the low seat height reflect the low intelligence? Easier to get an asshole onto.
matthew
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by matthew »

banner001 wrote:no problems here so far using the stated torque settings.

ive had problems setting things too loose, but never to the correct torque.
Beginnrs luk maybe ?
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banner001
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by banner001 »

matthew wrote:
banner001 wrote:no problems here so far using the stated torque settings.

ive had problems setting things too loose, but never to the correct torque.
Beginnrs luk maybe ?
on 3 bikes with a combined age of 63 years? i put it down to good quality torque wrenches, and replacing bolts when they look shagged.

and for the record ive got 3 torque wrenches, a 2-24Nm, a 19-110Nm and a 100-300Nm, as well as a 110psi air impact wrench.
UK ZXR400 L3 (1993) - Fully restored and on the roads, my green beast!
JPN ZXR250 A2 (1990) - Revs to 19,200rpm... 'nuff said :smt003
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KwakKwak
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by KwakKwak »

100-300Nm, do you have a callenger tank project, you're not letting on about??? :pmsl
Does the low seat height reflect the low intelligence? Easier to get an asshole onto.
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by cargo »

KwakKwak wrote:100-300Nm, do you have a callenger tank project, you're not letting on about??? :pmsl


fitted with very clean non flatslide carbs no doubt
ross46
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by ross46 »

Rear spindle torque-110Nm
Clutch basket torque-130Nm
You need one over 100Nm though I just ask my local bike shop very nicely and they just come out and do it. And roger, what torque settings do you use if not the stated? Or do you do it by feel or 90% of stated?
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banner001
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by banner001 »

i just hit it will the full 110psi on the air impactor for the clutch nut as you dont need to really lock the clutch that way.

the 100-300Nm was donated from a friend who used to fit truck hubs with it, they prefered it even to an air impactor.
UK ZXR400 L3 (1993) - Fully restored and on the roads, my green beast!
JPN ZXR250 A2 (1990) - Revs to 19,200rpm... 'nuff said :smt003
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Tirpitz
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Re: Bike Smoking

Post by Tirpitz »

Actually, you want to be careful using a torque wrench on those bolts. If you have the engine out of the frame you'll have no problem but with the engine left in you will find there isn't a lot of room to swing the wrench, even with an extension bar. And unless you apply a long, steady pressure to a wrench you will not get a reliable 'click'. With the little incremental turns you end up with when tightening these bolts with the engine in the frame you probably won't get the wrench to click at all until you have way overtorqued the bolts. They are soft and they will stretch easily - and stretch, and stretch, and oh bugger, it's snapped! Ask me how I know! (actually mine didn't snap as I have enough spannering experience to detect that the bolt was stretching, so took them out, binned them and ordered new ones and started again). As Cargo says, these bolts do not need much torque and for the reason described above if you are working with the engine in the frame I wouldn't use a torque wrench on them at all, I no longer do. They only need nipping up lightly to compress the rubber gasket, you are only sealing the cover. There isn't really a need to torque them unless you have no idea at all. If you are not sure what the recommended setting feels like, tighten up another fastener somewhere harmless to this setting to get a feel.

It is also worth pointing out that torque settings are only valid for new fasteners with dry threads (unless the manual actually says to lube them). Worn fasteners will turn more freely so the recommended setting will overtighten them. Fasteners with oily / lubed threads will be the same and I would reduce those settings by about 20%. There is a deal of truth in what RMKD is saying.
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