zxr400h fork tubes removeable?

[98ninja]

Can you remove the fork tubes from the stanchions on a zxr400h?
I've got them stripped down and the grub screw out. There's nothing in the factory manual saying they're removeable.
I need the tubes rechromed hence the removal

[watsonm359]

Hi,
They are removable, but can be tricky having been in place for so long. You’ll need to clamp the tube (can get the tool from eBay - just make sure it’s the correct size for the tube) in a vice and apply heat to the fork bottom. That should allow you to twist off the fork bottom using a tube or the wheel spindle.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[98ninja]

Hi,
They are removable, but can be tricky having been in place for so long. You’ll need to clamp the tube (can get the tool from eBay - just make sure it’s the correct size for the tube) in a vice and apply heat to the fork bottom. That should allow you to twist off the fork bottom using a tube or the wheel spindle.

Hope this helps.

Mike

Thanks for that. I've got a vice, heat gun and some Loctite freeze spray for the fork tubes.

[Ewetea]

Hi. I am impressed that you have managed to release the grub screws as I have had great difficulty moving them, and have resorted to drilling them out. The chrome tube is held in the lower stanchion by high strength Loctite (638), which requires heat to break the bond and allow the tube to be unscrewed. I clamped the wheel spindle in a vice and then secured the stanchion to the spindle by tightening the capscrews. I then used a strap wrench (used to remove an oil filter) on the tube to unscrew it. It has been suggested that an appropriate diameter steel rod could be located in the holes at the top of the tube to turn it, but I reasoned that since it was a distance from the screw thread that there would be "wind-up" in the tube. There was also the possibility of distortion. I used the wrench on the tube next to the stanchion. If it starts to slip due to the smooth chrome finish, put some black sticky parcel tape around the stanchion to give the wrench better grip. You sound as though you are competent so I'm sure that you will work something out. Note that there is an O-ring below the threads. I can recommend Amphardchrome for the rechroming (https://www.amphardchrome.co.uk/hard-chrome-plating.php). It will be expensive but OEM spares for the H model must be scarce. When reassembling don't forget to use the high strength Loctite on the threads. The joint has to support the front end of the bike and also cope with braking forces. The O-ring stops the Loctite leaking into the stanchion before it sets. You will need new oil seals, and so I recommend that you use a slide hammer to install it. Knocking the seal in place using a screwdriver is fraught with danger and only applies force on one side of the seal, causing it to rock. The slide hammer applies force all round the periphery of the seal. I purchased one and have used it to rebuild the forks on an L1, and L5 and a GSXR750. It just takes seconds to securely knock the seal into place. Let me know the diameter of your tubes.