Heated Grips (Daytona) Installation
Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 11:35 pm
Just an info post giving a brief run down of how and where to install heated grips for best effect (haha, i know the handle bar is always a good place to start, stop sniggering at the back)
My grips of choice: Daytona Analogue heated grips (similar to, but better than, Hein Gerrick basic type).
Price; Shops about £55 - 60, ebay about £48, http://www.vcustoms.co.uk with zxr400oc discount... £45!
These are the older analogue type, but are much easier to switch with gloves on whilst keeping your eyes on the road/track than the modern digital kind.
These come with 3 settings; Start (57W @ 12v = enough to burn after 10 mins through thick gloves), On (12w @ 12v = gentle warmth, good all year round to keep your dexterity), and Off (erm... 0w? Bit cold?)
My general tactic is to leave them set on start, and flick to on when my hands start to hurt...
Installation;
you'll need some basic tools to remove the seat, fuel tank, and air box. I think its one 5mm allen key, a posie screw driver, and a 10mm long hex socket. Some double sided tape and a can of meths/petrol is useful for attaching grips. I find that STP Heavy Duty Brake Cleaner is worth its weight in gold (and it nearly costs it too ) since it's basicly meths in a aerosol can. Alot easier than a bottle and rags.
IMPORTANT; ALWAYS REATTACH FUEL LINE TO TANK WHEN REASSEMBLING. FAILURE TO DO SO CAN LEAD TO SEVERE EMBARRASSMENT (AND HASSLE) 1.3 MILES DOWN THE ROAD... don't ask how i know!
Grips;
Installation is easy, remove old grips with either a craft knife, or a screw drive to lift open the end of the grip, and a quick squirt of meths or petrol to dissolve the glue. As you can see these grips are detachable from the main loom, and they weigh buggar all. If you're worried about the weight of an extra few feet of copper wire, then i suggest you take a dump before weighing the bike. clean the bars, add few strips of double sided tape lengthways on bar, a quick squirt of meths/petrol to dissolve the glue, then slip the new grips on. The glue will reset rock hard in about 10 mins. To shift is later, just lift open the end of the grip, and give it another quirt of meths and a wriggle, and it'll free up again. Brilliant huh? next run the loose ends through the frame holes to end up under the air box by the coils.
Switch;
best bet is to stick it on the yoke near the left bar using the supplied sticky backing. The sticky thing on my other bike has lasted 10,000 miles, it'll be fine. Run the wires through the frame holes under the tank.
Wiring up;
Under the air box is a mass of wiring. There is a white block connector with six wires in each block, and a big brown wire on the side with a bullet connector. This brown wire is 12v comes straight from the reg/rec (the generator) and is only live when the ignition is on. This means you can't accidentally leave them on and flatten your battery. attach the loose red wire to this brown wire, then attach the loose black on to an earth (negative) point. The whole chassis is attached to the negative terminal, but i found a handy bolt just in front of the shock mount. Remove bolt, wrap some bare wire around it, tighten back up. Attach the bullet connectors together as shown on the wiring diagram supplies, and hey presto, warm mitts!
My grips of choice: Daytona Analogue heated grips (similar to, but better than, Hein Gerrick basic type).
Price; Shops about £55 - 60, ebay about £48, http://www.vcustoms.co.uk with zxr400oc discount... £45!
These are the older analogue type, but are much easier to switch with gloves on whilst keeping your eyes on the road/track than the modern digital kind.
These come with 3 settings; Start (57W @ 12v = enough to burn after 10 mins through thick gloves), On (12w @ 12v = gentle warmth, good all year round to keep your dexterity), and Off (erm... 0w? Bit cold?)
My general tactic is to leave them set on start, and flick to on when my hands start to hurt...
Installation;
you'll need some basic tools to remove the seat, fuel tank, and air box. I think its one 5mm allen key, a posie screw driver, and a 10mm long hex socket. Some double sided tape and a can of meths/petrol is useful for attaching grips. I find that STP Heavy Duty Brake Cleaner is worth its weight in gold (and it nearly costs it too ) since it's basicly meths in a aerosol can. Alot easier than a bottle and rags.
IMPORTANT; ALWAYS REATTACH FUEL LINE TO TANK WHEN REASSEMBLING. FAILURE TO DO SO CAN LEAD TO SEVERE EMBARRASSMENT (AND HASSLE) 1.3 MILES DOWN THE ROAD... don't ask how i know!
Grips;
Installation is easy, remove old grips with either a craft knife, or a screw drive to lift open the end of the grip, and a quick squirt of meths or petrol to dissolve the glue. As you can see these grips are detachable from the main loom, and they weigh buggar all. If you're worried about the weight of an extra few feet of copper wire, then i suggest you take a dump before weighing the bike. clean the bars, add few strips of double sided tape lengthways on bar, a quick squirt of meths/petrol to dissolve the glue, then slip the new grips on. The glue will reset rock hard in about 10 mins. To shift is later, just lift open the end of the grip, and give it another quirt of meths and a wriggle, and it'll free up again. Brilliant huh? next run the loose ends through the frame holes to end up under the air box by the coils.
Switch;
best bet is to stick it on the yoke near the left bar using the supplied sticky backing. The sticky thing on my other bike has lasted 10,000 miles, it'll be fine. Run the wires through the frame holes under the tank.
Wiring up;
Under the air box is a mass of wiring. There is a white block connector with six wires in each block, and a big brown wire on the side with a bullet connector. This brown wire is 12v comes straight from the reg/rec (the generator) and is only live when the ignition is on. This means you can't accidentally leave them on and flatten your battery. attach the loose red wire to this brown wire, then attach the loose black on to an earth (negative) point. The whole chassis is attached to the negative terminal, but i found a handy bolt just in front of the shock mount. Remove bolt, wrap some bare wire around it, tighten back up. Attach the bullet connectors together as shown on the wiring diagram supplies, and hey presto, warm mitts!