www.zxrworld.co.uk

Rear shock that is

Spring had seen better days so it got painted the right colour Damper rod is pristine , bump stop is in good condition too , rising rate works as does compression dampening

Usual magical moment as soon as I rode it down the road and out onto the main - no trauma through my back where my two lower discs want to melt together

Initially set the pre-load at around a 1/3rd went upto the local Nankai and got myself a C spanner and upped to about 1/2th - wasn't too bad getting there just slightly bouncy.

Another thing it has changed is the ride height and I am now up on my tip toes Thing is I like it , cornering is just a breeze and effortless

100% recommend , will see if I can get the J2 Showa overhauled with a better spring for bike two as I really feel how stiff the OEM one is. Does the Kit Green spring make a better improvement ? They come up regular so might have a pop at one.

I had to use the uni-track off of a SP/L along with the shock as the H/J linkage is 2mm too small where the shock hooks in (The part that the dogbones , shock and frame attach onto)

Now if these aftershocks would just stop so I can go for a right good thrash round the mountain - no way I want to be caught by one doing silly speeds

Had you tried to back the preload off on the OEM MM? I've just got myself some C spanners and intend tweaking my OEM one. I reckon mine's still too firm even though I had a garage back it off years ago. Just wondering if you're saying that no matter what you did with the OEM you couldn't get it right - in which case an aftermarket replacement looks like a good upgrade.

Incidentally, how easy is it to swap? Presumably you're not going to be able to do it with the bike on a paddock stand. I was thinking of fabricating some sort of wooden cradle to go under the engine, which would support the bike from falling to one side, then lowering it down onto bricks etc.. Then with the weight on the front wheel and the engine the swingarm could be worked on.

Or is there an easier way for the home mechanic . Of course, if there was a centre stand..........

Sounds like the cradle I made for when I done the rebuild.

I have a bike jack - remove sidestand and it lift up on both sides of that part of frame - worked out at about 2hrs work

To remove & replace shock:

Remove both lower cowls and store.
With bike on paddock stand remove side stand.
Jack bike up.
Remove riders seat and complete seat cowl.
Unbolt remote res' on OEM unit.
Unbolt fuel pump / electrical block bracket.
Depending on your bolt/nut configuration you might want to remove end can and link pipe from zorst.
Remove top mount nut from shock.
Remove shock lower mount nut.
Remove frame rail nut & bolt.
Remove dogbone nut & bolt.
Move uni track link forward for acces and remove nut & bolt for lower shock.
Remove top mount shock bolt and feed shock through swingarm.
Guide remote res' through inner mudgaurd and down through swingarm.

Give everything a clean , grease unitrack linkage and rebuild is reverse of above.

The thing with backing off the preload too much is you will not set the rider sag , the inherint stiffness of the OEM spring cant be dialed out with out compromising the performance of the trackability of the bike, it will unload to late in bends if not set right. I set the shock for my weight and riding style , it felt great except for wanting to weld my lower discs and rattle my fillings.... once you experience " magical carpet " ride that a quality shock gives you understand the problems so going back is almost impossible !

Don't back your preload off beyond your rider weight with gear or the sag wont be right - OK if your a bod and dont push your bike but expect it to perform and you will come a cropper - if it unloads to late you will drift

BTW, while I was doing this and it was sitting up on the jack with no shock - of course a quake happened and yet again I am holding the bike from toppling !

Gawd damn bloody mother nature !

A bike jack? Call me thick but it never crossed my mind they existed :wanker What you got then MM, something like this http://www.fastbikebits.com/product/308/mini-bike-jack ? I reckon that's something I'm going to look into adding to the workshop because before too long I'd really like to strip and grease the rear suspension linkages and without something of the sort it's going to be a PITA.

Get your point about fiddling with the rear shock preload. I may just have to upgrade it with a bit of bling. Now where did I put that Ohlins.........

Almost identical to that jack except cheaper
Came with a box spanner for winding it up and down but I use a 22mm socket and ratchet. Two different height feet for clearing sumps too. First got it for doing the front end on my ZRX and it worked a treat so paid for itself in that one job
Have used it several times now and still going strong despite living outside in the open bike shed (my garage) - gave it an oiling this year.
If you have a shed / garage with roof beams you could use ratchet tie downs on the sub frame and suspend it - zip tie the front brake lever to stop the front end rolling.

Yeah well it would be cheaper, this is the UK

Right, I know what's on my shopping list then. I can think of a few jobs I can do in my shed with that next winter.

I wouldn't suspend a light bulb from my shed roof beams, never mind the bike

Tirpitz wrote: I wouldn't suspend a light bulb from my shed roof beams, never mind the bike

Talking about cheapness , a package on its way to you

Going to post some photos soon and wil email you the tracking for it.

MM!

Cheers MM!