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rene wrote:wish i had a digital mesure thing (forgten the name)

the way i get around the clutch tool is if you put one of the bolts that holds the clutch caseon in then wedge a screw driver bettween the screw and the teeth holds it fine!

admitadly you normaly need 2 people to do this. Get some EBC race friction plates while you've got it striped trust me it makes a world of diffrence!

Digital Micrometer (technically a Vernier but not marketed as one?) is £8 from Maplins.

The Multimeter is £12

Both essential tools for home servicing.

Re: clutch tool, they are f** expensive. £25 in total for a proper one. Well skanked.
I would go with the screwdriver approach but I work on other people's bikes a lot too and I don't want to break anything/risk it. I also want a proper tool so I can do sprockets as well nice and easy ..

Re: friction plates, they are just bog standard ones that had all the emulsion and slime cleaned off em by Zimm, the guy who rebuilt the chassis. I wouldn't spend money on clutch plates mate, seriously. Its only got to do what it says on the tin! Being totally honest, I don't ride hard enough to justify the outlay ..

my 750 standard plates couldent take the straine id put them under, race starts wheelys and would slip when flat out in 6th

changed them for the street clutch along with harder springs (god im glad i've got a hydrolic clutch fuckers stif even with that!) you have to pull off with quite a few rev's other wise she'll just stall but f*** me dos it take off well now!

I've never ridden a bike that hard ..

I tend to get them after people like your good self have.



Oh re: the electrical fault, I am going to be lazy and buy a replacement loom off a H1. Having seen the pic of what the loom should look like, and what mine looks like (an expendable extra from a Kruger movie) I think I might have a good idea whats wrong.

gubbs wrote:
I tend to get them after people like your good self have.

why do you think i always get old bikes, most bike i own eaither end up in 2 ways blown or put in a ditch

Total I decided to dissect the clutch and see if I can find the source of the thumping noise the bike makes on idle.

It dissapears when the clutch is pulled in so its deffo in there.



















Summary?

f*** knows whats making the noise.

There's no 'bearing' as such just a needle roller bearing on the crank. Thats rattly, they all are.

So no idea, let's hope it goes away when I put it all back together ..

:smt013

Wouldnt it be the thrust bearing that makes the noise, hence it dissapears when you pull the lever in? I bet you it goes away and then creeps back. I know someone who had thier clutch replaced on warranty cos it was noisy, went away for a few weeks and came back.

What about the basket? Plates can rattle if thats worn cant they? Either way i wouldnt worry about it, they all do it.

Some good pictures there by the way, first time ive seen that part of the motor!

RobB wrote:Wouldnt it be the thrust bearing that makes the noise, hence it dissapears when you pull the lever in? I bet you it goes away and then creeps back. I know someone who had thier clutch replaced on warranty cos it was noisy, went away for a few weeks and came back.

What about the basket? Plates can rattle if thats worn cant they? Either way i wouldnt worry about it, they all do it.

Some good pictures there by the way, first time ive seen that part of the motor!

Well I checked em all, seemed fine to me. Its making a LOT of noise thats the thing.

THUMP, THUMP, THUMP etc.

Some noise I would be OK with, but this is seriously loud and evidently causes drag on the crank ..

Fuuuuck knows whats causing it tho. Truly. It does go away when you pull the clutch in, aye. Thrust bearing looked/felt fine to me ..

It might be the clutch cable setup I guess, not fully disengaging ..

mine in my old engine used to thump also, it was so bad that when I stopped after riding and clicked into neutral that the clutch squarked for a few seconds afterwards when I released the lever. This new one is much better though the thump is hardly noticable and it doesn't squark or jerk like the old one. When I get round to building up a good spare engine with the bits I will let you know if I found anything odd.

could it be warped clutch plates?

thurst bearing is more of a grinding noise than a clunck

Do any of the drive plates have burn marks on them? could be a sighn of warped/dead friction plates