www.zxrworld.co.uk

get yourself a toothbrush and some carb cleaner, take the carbs off (yes you can do it!) remove the float bowls usually held in with 4 screws and get a screwdriver that fits otherwise you'll have problems, clean the inside of the bowls with the carb cleaner and then put em back together and try them.

the pistons should go back in as long as they are smooth and not pitted, watch the seals too and you need to keep them straight, a slight angle and you will wreck the seals and jam the pistons.

get the pistons in then we'll tell you how to bleed them.

can always add me too msn (superflyafterworld@hotmail.com) bleed a few brakes using a syringe,

much easyier

get the pistons un (it is an butt)

buy some break fluid, and use that as lubrication to push them in, toothbrushes are great for cleaning the toad off, brake cleaner can be good too, once there in , go to a chemist and ask for a syringe (not with niddle) i made that mistake and they thought i was a druggie, and you want a little bit of silicon tubing, then add me to msn

I took the calipers into work with me today and got some of the guys to put the pistons back into place for me. They've noticed i've damaged the 'brown' area that rests onto the back of the brake pads!! it's not that bad really but they seem to be slightly concerned... if it poses a problem i'll change them later!!

Anyway, tonight i'll put the new pads into place in time to put them back onto the bike tomorrow night. Superfly, i'll add you to my msn later on tonight so your help (and every one else's would be greatly welcomed)

Masterofinsanity, would i be better putting the brakes on the bike and then taking it for a run to try to push any crap through the system and out?? Then finding out if the idling still playing up???

Jodie

I took the calipers into work with me today and got some of the guys to put the pistons back into place for me. They've noticed i've damaged the 'brown' area that rests onto the back of the brake pads!! it's not that bad really but they seem to be slightly concerned... if it poses a problem i'll change them later!!

Anyway, tonight i'll put the new pads into place in time to put them back onto the bike tomorrow night. Superfly, i'll add you to my msn later on tonight so your help (and every one else's would be greatly welcomed)

Masterofinsanity, would i be better putting the brakes on the bike and then taking it for a run to try to push any crap through the system and out?? Then finding out if the idling still playing up???

Jodie

Yeah, it's a bit late now but I've got keys cut for mine before. I think the guy used a blank for some kind of vauxhall!

It's always worth having spare keys, since the fuel filler lock is great for bending them - the petrol strips the grease out and they get stiff, and combined with the fact it only uses the tip of the key it's easy to do.

I keep a mini can of lock-lube (free with a disclock) under the pillion seat now after one worrying occasion where I had very little fuel and found the lock set solid. We ended up dripping engine oil off the dipstick of a mates bike until I could open it without bending the key.

bikerjodie wrote: Masterofinsanity, would i be better putting the brakes on the bike and then taking it for a run to try to push any crap through the system and out?? Then finding out if the idling still playing up???

Jodie

yeah sure but make sure your brakes work first there should be some drain screws at the bottom of the float bowls, undo them slowly and using a bit of tubing and a jar see if any craps falls through, spray some carb cleaner through the air filter ( if you can't get the filter off) to get it through the carbs

So.... before i attempt to bleed the brakes tonight, do i only open one bleed nipple at a time, put on a piece of tube into a jar with some fluid in it, them pump the brake until no more air bubbles appear, tighten the nipple, then do the same for the other side. Then keep repeating the above??? I've been told conflicting stories about opeing both bleed nipples at once and trying to do both at once!!!

Jodie

Did the bleeding thing... now the lever's quite tight but i left the cylinder cap off and cable tied the brake lever into the handlebar. I'll release it tomorrow and put the lid back on.

I noticed that the brake pads are pretty tight to the discs, is this because it's just done, new pads and the discs being a bit rust with sitting out for a few days?

I started the bike again tonight, don't think it'll even out long enough for me to drive it, the revs are all over the place and it doesn't like me touching the accelerator!!

Think the weekend will be the stripping of the carbs!!

I just want to go out on the damn thing!!


HELP!!!

where did you get the idea of tying the lever back from??? good on ya!! you'll be ok as long as the pads don't bind onto the disc, if they do the discs could get too hot and warp! tip ride the bike (if you could ) and put slight pressure on the pads to wear them in and get rid of any surface rust on the discs. you will notice if they really stick cos the bike won't move.

is your bike soo bad you can't run it up the road??

Cleaned the carbs out, cleaned the air filter out and then put the bike back together (-1 bolt for the air box )

The bike now runs and will be on it's first journey this weekend!!!!

It still sounds a bit lumpy but i can rev it right up and it's fairly responsive!

The front brakes are touching the discs but i'm sure this will even itself out after it's run!

I'll put the bike in to a garage to get the carbs balanced as it's not quite right (needs a little choke to idle consistantly)

Many thanks for all your help, i'll be out whizzing about on it in the spring time!!



Jodie <<<< a happy bunny!!

Have fun and stay on the grey bit