www.zxrworld.co.uk

Here you go,
H model
http://manualedereparatie.info/manuale/ ... e.info.zip

L model
http://manualedereparatie.info/manuale/ ... e.info.zip

Mod2 tomorrow at 3, can't wait. 5 hours of training before hand so should have no problems fingers crossed

Come on... Did you pass?! And that manual looks decent

Yep passed with flying colours hahahahaha so happy. Been out on the 400 for an hour what a beast makes the 125 look stupid lol even with a bad misfire.

Well the misfire is still there, I thought a good ride might help but it doesn't seem to have made any difference, I've found an easy way to clean the carbs out without removing from the bike but I'll post that in another thread.
Every time I pull the clutch in to go down the gears the engine dies and when I let it out again she bump starts herself, had it backfiring as well lol.
Also have to keep the revs up at junctions or she will die there as well
Stick coils should be here very soon so I'll get them on, if that doesn't fix it ill get back on the 125 for a bit while I strip the 400 down

Happy days

Congratulations! Let me guess, passed, got home, called insurance, got kit on, went straight out? And where are you located, if your not too far I can come down and give you a hand? Congrats again and welcome to the club

ross46 wrote:Congratulations! Let me guess, passed, got home, called insurance, got kit on, went straight out? And where are you located, if your not too far I can come down and give you a hand? Congrats again and welcome to the club

Cheers buddy

Well actually I got the bike insured as soon as I bought it because it had no tax when i got it and I couldn't be arsed with sorning so just bought a disc straight away,
so it was more like get home ghosty the aprilia into the garage dump my bag, I had all the kit on anyway cos I'd just got back, I had the 400 keys with me anyway so off I went into the sunset, didn't even go indoors lol
I'm in Poole, Dorset so quite a distance from you I think unfortunately

What a beast though just can't wait till she's running sweet, there's a dyno place about a mile and a half away as well so she will be getting booked in there soon as I can afford it for a tuneup

To this day ive never taken my bike to a dyno, you can feel when somethings wrong, so I would get it as close as you can by feel then take it in to adjust a couple of screws, would work out alot cheaper I would have thought

im gonna go out on a limb and say, too rich on the pilots, hence why when coming to a stop you backfire (too much fuel) and the bike cuts out (overly rich mixture)

Not sure on the differences between models, but my L9 was set up way way way too rich when I got it and sounds somewhat similar to what you're experiencing.

As a result, when starting, it required the throttle a good deal open, and would then require frequent throttle blipping at idle until it had gotten up to temperature.

Also, any choke would insta-stall the bike - I expect this was due to air starvation.

Having said that, I never experienced any backfiring.

I won't be taking it in until it's sorted anyway, I wanna fix the misfire and get the carbs cleaned first. Probably do a service first as well but the dyno is definitely on the cards in the not too distant future.

I've just ridden the 400 home from work and when I parked her up I tried blocking the end of the exhaust with my hand, to my surprise the engine kept running and you could hear the air escaping, I couldn't see any places it might be leaking from so tomorrow I'll get some exhaust paste and whip the fairings off and see if I can find a leak, it's had a full system fitted so maybe it's leaking somewhere and that might be adding to the troubles??

banner001 wrote:im gonna go out on a limb and say, too rich on the pilots, hence why when coming to a stop you backfire (too much fuel) and the bike cuts out (overly rich mixture)

I think your right and it is running rich, what puzzles me though is it was fine when I got it and I haven't changed anything apart from the plugs so surely it should run fine still.
I should take the plugs out and check them now I've been riding, might add that to my list for tomorrow, like I mentioned earlier the plugs were loose when I got the bike so I sort of get the impression that was done to lean the bike out by letting in more air through the thread

The plug in the first cylinder comes out black and sooty but the other 3 are just a little bit oily, that was with the bike ticking over in the garage though, like I say haven't checked the plugs since I've been riding.
I'm no professional so I'm not trying to say I'm right and your wrong but from what I've read it tells me it could be an ignition problem, maybe a faulty coil so I've ordered a set of cbr600 stick coils and loom in an attempt to try and fix it.

I have read a lot of your posts and I know you know your stuff so any advice would be greatly appreciated, what's your thoughts on the loose plugs?? Do you think that was an accident or was it done on purpose??
I might try loosen them tomorrow and see what it does

jimsym wrote:Not sure on the differences between models, but my L9 was set up way way way too rich when I got it and sounds somewhat similar to what you're experiencing.

As a result, when starting, it required the throttle a good deal open, and would then require frequent throttle blipping at idle until it had gotten up to temperature.

Also, any choke would insta-stall the bike - I expect this was due to air starvation.

Having said that, I never experienced any backfiring.

Interesting that does sound similar, mine is fine on the choke though but as soon as it gets a little bit of heat in the revs rise for a few seconds then drop off, then rise again then drop until I take the choke off.
Mine will idle fine as well but cuts out if left for a minute, it's when I'm slowing down and going down through the gears the engine stalls and backfires.

The more I think the more it sounds like it's too rich, it's going from revving high with loads of fuel to revving low with loads of leftover fuel flooding it.
You can't just open up the throttle either or it dies straight away, I have to give it a little twist to pick the revs up before I can open it up any more, although I turned the tickover up a bit and it sorted it for now lol

Right so that's it tomorrow the carbs are coming off for a clean up
Just gonna make myself a list of things I need to find out, feel free to add anything

1. Standard jet sizes
2. Air/fuel mixture screw position (how many turns)
3. Air/fuel screw location
Would it pay to just adjust the 1 carb for now as only 1 plug comes out sooty??

Need to go on a hunt for a carb balancer, try get one tomorrow morning

Just a thought the pilot circuit only does the low revs but the problem goes all the way through to the top
The bikes been fitted with an exhaust system so I'm wondering if it's been jetted as well, maybe it's got the wrong jets

Hi Vaughn,
Your story is remarkably similar to mine, my L9 was doing similar tricks, had a few backfires too, couldn't run her properly until I got my Full licence, first proper run out and she was cutting out at every roundabout, even at 60 mid gear change on a back road, really is all you need as you're finding you feet on one of these bikes.
My bike was running rich, really rich in fact, another tell tale - check the end of the can, it will be getting yellow after about 60 miles.
You really do need to strip and properly clean and inspect the carbs as per Banner and Ross's excellent guides, be methodical and it is straight forward, I found 110 jets in mine! I have a feeling that some owners just change jetting willy nilly, mine also had one washer at the needle, stripped out, all back to standard, I have started with 90 jets. One of my needles was dodgy and two of the float valve seats and filters were screwed.
I also had air leaks, check the air filter gasket - underside of housing, O rings below velocity stack, and O rings on the carb holders, mine were shot, I have to credit Cargo for the air leak advice by the way.
My air filter was also done, found a snail in the housing, seriously! The plugs were toast too.
Was your bike stored for a long time before you got it? Sorry if you have previously mentioned any of this, haven't read all the posts.
Anyway my bike is running so much better, no blipping required, except for effect , idles spot on, goes like a train.
Used a morgan pro carb balancer after all the work, good fun seeing how far out of balance they were.
I know how annoying it is when you just want to ride the bike, but in my case was definitely worth it to take it off the road until it was sorted.

KwakKwak wrote:Hi Vaughn,
Your story is remarkably similar to mine, my L9 was doing similar tricks, had a few backfires too, couldn't run her properly until I got my Full licence, first proper run out and she was cutting out at every roundabout, even at 60 mid gear change on a back road, really is all you need as you're finding you feet on one of these bikes.
My bike was running rich, really rich in fact, another tell tale - check the end of the can, it will be getting yellow after about 60 miles.
You really do need to strip and properly clean and inspect the carbs as per Banner and Ross's excellent guides, be methodical and it is straight forward, I found 110 jets in mine! I have a feeling that some owners just change jetting willy nilly, mine also had one washer at the needle, stripped out, all back to standard, I have started with 90 jets. One of my needles was dodgy and two of the float valve seats and filters were screwed.
I also had air leaks, check the air filter gasket - underside of housing, O rings below velocity stack, and O rings on the carb holders, mine were shot, I have to credit Cargo for the air leak advice by the way.
My air filter was also done, found a snail in the housing, seriously! The plugs were toast too.
Was your bike stored for a long time before you got it? Sorry if you have previously mentioned any of this, haven't read all the posts.
Anyway my bike is running so much better, no blipping required, except for effect , idles spot on, goes like a train.
Used a morgan pro carb balancer after all the work, good fun seeing how far out of balance they were.
I know how annoying it is when you just want to ride the bike, but in my case was definitely worth it to take it off the road until it was sorted.

Brilliant just what I needed to hear thanks.
That is now my first job of the day, get them carbs off and cleaned/inspected.
I have my eye on a new seal kit so I'll have to take it all apart again anyway but I guess if I take it apart tomorrow I might even find more things need replacing so I can get them on order ready for when I do the seals.

I've been reading through the manuals but they are a bit vague so gonna have to play it by ear and learn along the way, should be fun

I noticed when I had the airbox off the little rubber horns that sit on top of the carbs were all squashed up so could be leaking air, I'll get some pictures up tomorrow as I'm working.
Thanks for your help everybody

if you need the bike every day, just do one thing at a time, ive got a checklist of stuff to do

Agree with the above, check the carbs first.

Mine was sat idling for a year or two before I got my hands on it and although it would run it was lumpy as hell and would cut out at low revs.
Was moving house when I had the problems so in my anticipation (having jsut passed my test) put the bike into the shop. They told me the carbs were almost the dirtiest they'd ever seen. I'd replaced the spark plugs 2 months before hand and they had to be replaced again because they were in such a state. I was doubtful at first but when the shop got the plugs out the trash can I could see how bad they were.

From reading the forums probably the most consistent 'niggle' is dirty or improperly setup carbs.

Got mine back after carb cleaning, reseated valves and balancing and she runs like a dream. Occasionally will still cut out in slow moving traffic if I'm not giving it any throttle but slipping the clutch solves it. Trying not to do it if I can help it though.