Running in a new bike
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- wonderpupp
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Running in a new bike
Now I know thia isn't relevant to most of use here, but:
Running in a bike - should you thrash it or not?
Some say you should, but manufacturers say no, don't rev past 5k for 500 miles.
I know why not to on 2 strokes - they seize up. But 4 strokes?
Just wondering...
(Can anyone detect I'm getting a little impatient here yet?)
Running in a bike - should you thrash it or not?
Some say you should, but manufacturers say no, don't rev past 5k for 500 miles.
I know why not to on 2 strokes - they seize up. But 4 strokes?
Just wondering...
(Can anyone detect I'm getting a little impatient here yet?)
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yes you should run in perhaps add a few extra revs gradually as the mileage increases.
Most imortant is not to labour the engine...........
Don't flog it up a hill in a high gear with lots of throttle opened but very low revs............... better to be in a lower gear with the engine reving a little more.
Conversally downhill you can let the revs sing out a bit more on a nearly closed throttle.
I could try and explain the principale behind running in with regard to two mating surfaces bedding in to each other but theres bound to be some engineering student on here that can do it better that me
Most imortant is not to labour the engine...........
Don't flog it up a hill in a high gear with lots of throttle opened but very low revs............... better to be in a lower gear with the engine reving a little more.
Conversally downhill you can let the revs sing out a bit more on a nearly closed throttle.
I could try and explain the principale behind running in with regard to two mating surfaces bedding in to each other but theres bound to be some engineering student on here that can do it better that me
- masterofinsanity
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your handbook should tell you how to run it in properly pupps.
Don't forget people there is more to the zxr400 than this forum... check out www.zxrworld.co.uk also.
- RedexRobB
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As i understand it part of running in, is to constantly vary the load on the engine. Constant revs isnt the way to do it as it doesnt promote wear on the surfaces that need mating.
http://www.mcnninjas.co.uk - guys here will probably know about running it in more.
Oh, and go go stupidly easy on the engine either, i think thats what cargo was trying to get across. Ive read of bikes making loads less power becuase during running in the owner was too easy on it. I guess you just have to be in the middle of taking it easy on the engine and thrashing the head off it while not reving it too high.
http://www.mcnninjas.co.uk - guys here will probably know about running it in more.
Oh, and go go stupidly easy on the engine either, i think thats what cargo was trying to get across. Ive read of bikes making loads less power becuase during running in the owner was too easy on it. I guess you just have to be in the middle of taking it easy on the engine and thrashing the head off it while not reving it too high.
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theres two methods of running in a bike - the manufacturers method where you vary the revs upto xrpm for x number of miles as stated in your handbook
or....
theres the motoman method where you thrash it
My colleague has just put a big bore kit on his bike, and it came with specific instructions to put the piston in dry (ouch, im in pain thinking about it) and then basically thrash it for x miles..... ie the motoman method
have a read
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
it makes perfect sense to do it that way - but i cant bring myself to do it
/Caz
/Caz
or....
theres the motoman method where you thrash it
My colleague has just put a big bore kit on his bike, and it came with specific instructions to put the piston in dry (ouch, im in pain thinking about it) and then basically thrash it for x miles..... ie the motoman method
have a read

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
it makes perfect sense to do it that way - but i cant bring myself to do it

/Caz
/Caz
GSX-R600 K4
ZXR400 H2
Commuter: Gilera Runner 180SP
Contributing writer to:http://jocke.selincite.com
ZXR400 H2
Commuter: Gilera Runner 180SP
Contributing writer to:http://jocke.selincite.com
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Opinions on running in new egines is certainly varied these days!
The idea of having to run an engine in (a few years ago atleast!) was due to the fact that the achievable tolerances of manufacturing (although good) were still not precise enough to maintain the integrity of the moving components throughout the engines life from day 1, so basically taking it gentle for 'X' miles would bed the parts in so that any of the effective clearances required (cams, pistons, crank etc..) would set themselves up from the initial wearing in period where you are meant to be taking it gentle.
The idea is that excessive loading, or ragging the engine, in its early days would cause this to happen too excessively (as some parts are made with interference fits), resulting in a poorly engine
.
I know there have been many debates recently questioning how much running in is still required as the precision of modern day manufacturing is so good. General opinion is that one day you will be able to buy a brand new engine and then boot the balls off it straight away without being at any risk.
The idea of having to run an engine in (a few years ago atleast!) was due to the fact that the achievable tolerances of manufacturing (although good) were still not precise enough to maintain the integrity of the moving components throughout the engines life from day 1, so basically taking it gentle for 'X' miles would bed the parts in so that any of the effective clearances required (cams, pistons, crank etc..) would set themselves up from the initial wearing in period where you are meant to be taking it gentle.
The idea is that excessive loading, or ragging the engine, in its early days would cause this to happen too excessively (as some parts are made with interference fits), resulting in a poorly engine

I know there have been many debates recently questioning how much running in is still required as the precision of modern day manufacturing is so good. General opinion is that one day you will be able to buy a brand new engine and then boot the balls off it straight away without being at any risk.
- RedexRobB
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Arent Ford already doing that with thier car engines? My brother in-law bought a Ford Focus back in 2003 and he said you dont need to run the engines in. He'd been ragging it from day one, 4 years later its still going.Jackson wrote:General opinion is that one day you will be able to buy a brand new engine and then boot the balls off it straight away without being at any risk.
Ive heard of that Motoman method, apparently your engine will be dying after about 3K or 4K miles.
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- Xphyral
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manufacturer reccomendations for running in a bike engine would be a lot lower than you can get away with on the road, and you'd expect this in the same way that modern sportsbikes out of the factory are well over engineered for safety and reliability reasons.
I'd say theres only one rule you really need to stick to when running a modern engine in and thats the oil change intervals.
More damage is done by people when they suddenly finish the running in period and start giving it large on cold engines.
I'd say theres only one rule you really need to stick to when running a modern engine in and thats the oil change intervals.
More damage is done by people when they suddenly finish the running in period and start giving it large on cold engines.
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It makes sense if you think about it, assemble it dry and then let it bed itself in..... I cant bring myself to do it. The thought of metal on metal makes me cringe!Jackson wrote: Not really seen much in the way of this motoman method though tbh, but i cant imagine that it will increase the life of the engine in any way?!
keep putting good oil in your bike and it'll thank you for itXphyral wrote:I'd say theres only one rule you really need to stick to when running a modern engine in and thats the oil change intervals.
More damage is done by people when they suddenly finish the running in period and start giving it large on cold engines.

if you start ragging it when cold, you run an increased risk of scuff.
you dont have a brand new engine when you get a brand new bike, the engine wont be allowed to leave the manufacturers without giong through production test.
GSX-R600 K4
ZXR400 H2
Commuter: Gilera Runner 180SP
Contributing writer to:http://jocke.selincite.com
ZXR400 H2
Commuter: Gilera Runner 180SP
Contributing writer to:http://jocke.selincite.com
- wonderpupp
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It's funny how I'm on this monster of a bike, following the kawasaki recommended method of running in, barely stretching over 4.5k rpm to be honest and it's pretty relaxing too.
Most roads around here are 30-40 mph limits now anyways, so I am getting away with it well to be honest.
I asked the dealership why keep revs low - here goes:
little filings will break off engine bits and deposit them in the oil, hence first oil change and check at 500 miles. Keeping the revs low isn't all for the benefit of the engine - the suspension and brakes need to bed in properly, especially with floaty wavey discs and doing emergency stops early on can be hazardous to the bedding in of the braking system (the hoses and even the sensors)
Also, the fuel injection although it is set up, may be set up slightly out and this can't really be checked effectively until the engine has been experiencing some loads, like running on a road.
They are run in to a degree on the bench before leaving the factory, but only as far as turning over, no firing of plugs or ignition takes place on Kawasakis. Suzukis and Yamaha's are known to be run in on the bench nowadays.
So there I am, all I needed to do was ask the right chap. He may well have fed me a load of crap, but it all sounds very feasible to me.
so keeping my sign on for now.
"Running in now, kicking your ass later."
Most roads around here are 30-40 mph limits now anyways, so I am getting away with it well to be honest.
I asked the dealership why keep revs low - here goes:
little filings will break off engine bits and deposit them in the oil, hence first oil change and check at 500 miles. Keeping the revs low isn't all for the benefit of the engine - the suspension and brakes need to bed in properly, especially with floaty wavey discs and doing emergency stops early on can be hazardous to the bedding in of the braking system (the hoses and even the sensors)
Also, the fuel injection although it is set up, may be set up slightly out and this can't really be checked effectively until the engine has been experiencing some loads, like running on a road.
They are run in to a degree on the bench before leaving the factory, but only as far as turning over, no firing of plugs or ignition takes place on Kawasakis. Suzukis and Yamaha's are known to be run in on the bench nowadays.
So there I am, all I needed to do was ask the right chap. He may well have fed me a load of crap, but it all sounds very feasible to me.
so keeping my sign on for now.
"Running in now, kicking your ass later."
- MonkeyBusiness
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Wonderpupp, I had a very similar explanation from Triumph for my 675. I followed their running in process, which starts at 4000rpm and allows 1000rpm increases after every +-150miles (only once you have exceeded 450 miles), all the way to 1000 miles.
I made sure that I varied the speed / revs constantly, as suggested by them.
I sometimes strayed about 500-1000rpm over their recommendation, but generally kept it within their rev-range.
This was an extremely frustrating experience because guys on much slower bikes were always overtaking me. The little devil inside just wanted to twist the throttle and blast into the distance
My mate on the otherhand, bought a 675 about 3 weeks before me, and he only ran it in for about 300 miles, then he started thrashing it.
My bike is without a doubt quicker than his. I am not sure if my bike is just a better pick of the bunch, or if it is because of the way we ran them in
I made sure that I varied the speed / revs constantly, as suggested by them.
I sometimes strayed about 500-1000rpm over their recommendation, but generally kept it within their rev-range.
This was an extremely frustrating experience because guys on much slower bikes were always overtaking me. The little devil inside just wanted to twist the throttle and blast into the distance

My mate on the otherhand, bought a 675 about 3 weeks before me, and he only ran it in for about 300 miles, then he started thrashing it.
My bike is without a doubt quicker than his. I am not sure if my bike is just a better pick of the bunch, or if it is because of the way we ran them in

Ride it like you stole it!
- wonderpupp
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I'm up to 195 miles now. I got a numb ass saturday from riding for four hours. And the burn on my hand from the exhaust is now really really sore from rubbing the inside of my glove.
But I have noticed that teh top speed is up from 52mph at 5krpm in 6th gear to 67mph already. The oil got lovely and hot saturday and it really made a difference, all so much smoother already.
But yeah, keeping it steady and letting it rev down as well as up. And I got my first blob of bird poo on it, which came off very swiftly with a cotton soft cloth.
But I have noticed that teh top speed is up from 52mph at 5krpm in 6th gear to 67mph already. The oil got lovely and hot saturday and it really made a difference, all so much smoother already.
But yeah, keeping it steady and letting it rev down as well as up. And I got my first blob of bird poo on it, which came off very swiftly with a cotton soft cloth.