L3 cam chain replacement

[markzxr400l3]

Hi folks,

I am up to my elbows in engine oil at the moment. Can anyone let me know how to get the cam chain off the crank sprocket. I have the head off and the timing plate removed but the chain does not clear the sprocket due to a casting on the block??

I have tried the manual(s) which interestingly dont tell you how to replace a cam chain but will happily tell you how stretched they need to be before replacement!!!, I have tried the forums, I have tried swearing, can anyone help?

(brb, its just occured to me that cam-chain might be in the bottom end section of the manual)

Mark

[RedexRobB]

According to the manual i think you need to split the engine, but there is a short cut! File away that peice of casing, a number of members here have done exactly this and experienced no problems, just make sure you keep the filings out of the engine

[cargo]

What he says

I've done it with two different engine now and not had any problems

Best tool is a Dremmel or something similar just grind away enough to let the chain out. But make sure you block off the hole that allows oil to drain back to the sump and once you removed enough material to get the chain off then clean the entire area throughly. An air line/compessor is best failing that use a aersol brake cleaner to wash the swarf away

[zimm]

can be done without modifying anything or splitting the cases, take the genny cover off and while tweaking the chain off the sprocket and past the offending casting gently rock the crank forwards and backwards using the flywheel.. it'll just pop off .. ok, there's a knack to it, but done it 3 or 4 times now.

reverse to get new one in, although, it is trickier, and on one occasion ive ground back the casting to fit the new chain

[markzxr400l3]

Thanks all,

I'm beginning to rue the day I swapped my CBR Rat for this piece of junk. I'm sure its a fantastic bike in general but this one isnt!!

Anyway, thanks for the advice, I'll try the wiggle method but keep the dremmel on standby.

Mark

[masterofinsanity]

whereabouts you based mate?

ps you will need to use the H manual as well as the L manual, the L manual is a supplement to the H manual and for L model owners you have to use both, so it will tell you how to do it in the H manual.

[markzxr400l3]

Hi mate,

I'm in north wales, connahs quay (not far from chester)

I got an L3 in a straight swap for an old cbr jellymould rat. I did it without seeing the bike and although I wouldnt say I regret it, everything that could need done needs done!!

If anyone can help me out I'll be eternally thankful

When I got it, I sorted some dodgy wiring and it fired up after a little co-ercing. I took it out on the road and it wouldnt go past about 6k, as it heated up it got worse and they simply died everytime the throttle was opened.

I immediately thought it was carbs (specifically the diaphrams as if these are split the bike is fine at idle but doesnt raise the needle under engine vacuum). I got these replaced and no difference. While the airbox was off i checked that all slides lifted together, they did until it stuttered but it means its not carb balance either.

When left to tick over a large steaming puddle of coolant formed on my garage floor convincing me it was head gasket. .

I took the whole thing apart, replaced the head gasket, checked the valve clearances (one inlet too tight, havent replaced the shim yet but cant think that one inlet valve would be it) and wired it back up. No difference at all other than it now starts first flick of the switch. Still wont rev.

A local chap, used to race these and very kindly brought over a H1 (modified) wiring loom, did some black magic and eliminated the ECU and wiring loom as it still did it.

If anyone has any ideas I would gratefully receive them.

Mark