ZXR400 2001 STREET LEGAL TRACK BIKE BY BART

[BartekTymoszuk]

Yo guys, it's my first time here, so would be nice to say Hi,

My bike is stock 2001 L model

bought it cheaply, it's straight and undestroyed.

My goal is to reach a a lightweight track bike which I could use also for some street riding.

MODS :
SUPERCORSA SC1 TYRES
STEEL BRAKE LINES
NO THERMOSTAT
CUT OFF SUBFRAME
TOOK ALOT OF USELESS toad
LIKE :
NO CHAIN GUARDS
NO HORN
NO MIRRORS

APRILIA RSV4 TAIL
QUCIK ACTION THROTTLE
MICRON CAN
SPROCKETS -1 FRONT STK REAR

PROBLEMS :
LEAKING COOLANT (checked 2 radiators, rad cap, changed coolant, my fan doesnt work, no







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[Ewetea]

I am curious to know why you intend to remove the thermostat. It controls the temperature of the water around the cylinders to ensure they operate at optimum temperature - the temperature at which the best performance occurs. Without the thermostat the water pump will be circulating cool water continuously, and it will take a long time for the whole system to reach the optimum temperature...if ever. For instance, when the liners become hot, they expand. This reduces the gap on the piston rings and hence increases compression and reduces by-pass of gasses to the crankcase. The usual reason for removing parts from a race bike is to reduce the weight, but a thermostat has negligible weight. If you do want to remove it, then I suggest that you install an electric water pump which can be operated when required...but that will add considerable weight!

[banner001]

Ive removed the thermostat on my track only bike, but thats because im running distilled water not coolant (in case it dumps its contents everywhere on track...) and an electric coolant pump controlled by the bikes original thermocouple and an arduino microcontroller thats set as follows:

no RPM (it has an inductive pickup input) - run pump continuously
any RPM, run pump between 15% - 100% to keep the coolant temperature at 85C constantly.

im using this so that 1. i dont have to tape the radiator, 2. i dont need to run a fan, 3. i dont need to worry about the coolant boiling over on slowdown laps (the coolant temperature will rise, and a normal bike would be doing low RPM i.e. low coolant speed, whereas mine will turn the pump fast to keep the coolant flowing fast and keep the engine at 85C).

The electric pump is also lighter than the standard water pump, you just need to make a blanking plate for the opening, you can also mod your oil pump to remove the shaft that normally powers the water pump. you gain a tiny bit of power due to less energy being sapped by the engine to power components. The energy drain on the battery is minimal, its a neat system.

[BartekTymoszuk]

headgasket test went out my HG was gone, took the head today off without dismounting the engine,
any special care job i should do ?:)

[Miles]

Possibly change cam chain if needed and a shim check while your there

[banner001]

check the condition of your cams, rocker arms and general condition of the valve springs and the underneath of the cylinder head.

check the camchain tensioner and the 2 chain guides for damage/excessive wear.

strip and clean your carbs and afterwards perform a carb balance.

if you have a valve spring compressor i would be tempted to remove all your valves, clean them, inspect for damage and excessive wear and replace if necessary. you could also get your head vapour blasted internally to remove any carbon deposits.