New project...non-zxr

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PROGRESS!


almost ready to pass the MOT...but it will be one ugly son'bitch (for the moment)

[ross46]

but does it start? i think i'd quite like to see that thing started for the first time, saw all the effort you were going to when i was at yours with the head in a vice! its a beautiful thing to see a bike thats been in bits start for the first time

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im gonna disconnect the spark plugs and thumb the starter a few times tonight to see if i can prime the oil pump/filter/cooler and get some oil flowing, if all that seems ok i should be firing it up early next week. my mums here for the weekend, and i still need to sort out the rear brake and the (just discovered) leaking RHS fork oil seal, ive bought a supersprox rear sprocket today, so it should be able to turn a wheel technically on thursday night, but i will have to wait and see how everything else goes...i dont wanna fire it up without being able to take it for a quick 5-10 mile run, then it will be MOT and tax before the insurance kicks in in 2-3 weeks and i can properly run the engine in and do a few oil changes.

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couldnt help myself...

im having one of these


because my bike did this (after 5 years of inactivity) "CLICK FOR VIDEO"


the video makes it sound like a bag of nails...in reality its loud and smooth, no vibrations or noises...sounds like victory!

[ross46]

You should have said, I would have given you a cigar to go with the JD

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starting to slowly sort out the front end...lovely acewell 4554cp dash will be here in a few weeks, then it can get its first "new" front loom created



i didnt want them too, but ive conceded that its easier for me to make the lights/horn/indicators/dash all turn with the front forks...so thats what im going with for now, it will get the bike to be a bit more "permanant" as opposed to the clocks being cable tied on at 90 degrees to the ground as they were before...once the clocks get here ill fit the rear indicators and fit the LED flasher relay and i should be good to pile on some miles, i think it needs 500-1000 before the summer, as its had its run-in perion i now need to re-do the valve clearances...hopefully none need doing as its a pain in the butt, cam-over-buckets so you need to remove all the top end just to change a fucking shim also the cam chain runs in the middle of the engine...you do NOT want to lose it down the engine!

[ross46]

The forum anti swear doesn't seem to be working... Well fucking and mate!

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bit more progress, the 4554cp dash is here so i made a quick bracket to check for clearance from the ignition barrel and headlights, needs modifying slightly before sending for machining (bracket to be made from 5mm thick aly with a 30 degree downwards bend where the clock attaches, and the clock attachment point will be drawn towards the bike frame, it sticks too far out at the moment).




but the most major thing has been the full re-wire, all hand made, brand new wires and connections, new fuseboxes, thunderace switchgear left and right with repositioned choke lever, just waiting on a few more bits and pieces now and its all set to fire up (need a battery terminal crimper, a few odds and ends, and for my cbr900rr stick coils and loom to arrive)...then its back-on-the-road time again

ive also repositioned all of the electrics (minus the exup servo, battery, starter relay and rear lights/rear brake switch) from the back of the bike to the front, under the airbox, in the space that previously housed the coils. it will all be insulated away from excess engine heat once i get a proper aly mounting plate made with foil-backed insulation - it also gets plenty of cooling once the bike is running as im keeping the frame holes so these direct a stream of cool air into the area of the electrics.

gone from this:


to making up the looms individual subsections:


to the final loom:


not the prettiest it could have been, but i might re-do it in the future and i have a better idea now of what it needs to look like - got a ton of wire left over.

tested the headlights, indicators, brake lights, city light, oil and neutral switches as well as the features of the new integrated speedo/tacho...all looking good so far. once the bike fires up i will need to check that the tacho feed is working correctly, and then GPS check that the speedometer is working (im using a hall probe now to measure the front wheel rotation instead of a cable drive).

features of the clock, lap timer, average/total/maximum speed and distance measurements, clock, air temperature and coolant temperature in degrees C as well as high/low indicators, tacho to 12,000rpm, speedometer to over 200mph, voltage meter, 2 trip meters, independent left and right indicator lights+oil/neutral/high beam/city light+programmable shift light (set at 10,500 rpm now), integrated fuel meter and customisable backlight...im well chuffed with it. the next picture is before i realised that the oil and neutral lights needed a -ve return from the battery to operate correctly...d'oh...all sorted now, although the little LED lights are very bright, ill try to use resistors to dampen down the voltage at some point, they are currently drawing 12V i think they will be happier with ~3-4V and still be quite bright.


i have put the airbox on as a test and turned the handlebars from full left lock to full right lock, nothing is pushing/pulling and the airbox doesnt move (it was just pushed on, not clamped) so thats looking promising

[ross46]

looking very good! not too sure if i would want an average speed on my clocks, if youve been having fun then it will be difficult to explain to the police...

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"track day" officer

got the stick coils hooked up and wired in, all im waiting on now is my battery crimper and im good to go!

the very last bit of electrical work will be to wire in the fuel sender, but i need to buy it first, make a bracket that i can weld to the tank and do all that before i can wire it in. ive got the back end of the wiring harness to wrap in electrical tape, and then im finished with it. need to get a thunderace throttle+cables, and attach a new ferrule to the choke cable as its currently too long, and get a bracket made in aluminium to hold the clocks on.

[JamieNeve]

Really enjoying the thread, keep it up!

You've got me scouring eBay for a project bike in order to make myself as knowledgeable as yourself in the art of motorcycles

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best thing is to buy a small capacity 4-stroke, double over-head cam engine/bike and just take it to bits

at the very least you can just take it all apart and flog it on forums and get your money back, or do a full restoration on it and keep it/try to sell it for profit (needs to be mint), or put it back in a slightly better condition (i.e. if you take the engine apart use new bearing/piston rings/bore hone) and flog it for a slight profit or break even.

my only issue is with money, as ive got my malaguti phantom F12 scooter working now...its a bit of a "beast" even though it looks like a y bag of turds, its got a malossi 70cc kit, 19mm polini carb with 110 main jet, random de-restricted racing exhaust, carbon reeds, straight through pod filter, 4.8g rollers in a malossi engine variator (washer removed) with harder malossi white clutch variator spring.

top speed is now a GPS measured 56mph with my head down and the lights turned off, its about 54mph under normal riding conditions...gonna try to get it hit a genuine 60mph for our trip in september.