I've had enough...

[shakey]

.. of my fu*king bike. Spent all weekend soding arround with 3 sets of carbs cleaning etc etc re fitting and the ba*tard still has the same problem (see post in having problems "carbs")

I used to love the bike but right now want to smash it up and set fire to it! :smt013

Anyone know of any decent deals on 6Rs at the moment?

[jake]

so, is it running ok, just the revs not dropping fast enough still? or is it running like sheite too?

[shakey]

it's the revs not dropping below 2k sometimes hanging at 2.5 and dropping some times or not at all. plus it's hunting arround 6k when under load. then takes off.

I've been arsing arround with this for ever and I'm getting fed up with it now. I'ts going to the garage for the last time and if it doesn;t get sorted then it's had it's last ride

[jake]

dont take it to the garage man. Im not sure where you live dude, but is there anyone local with a dyno setup?
if you live anywhere near runcorn, i can recommend an excellent place who does my racebikes.
Its sounds like its all fueling problems, dont give up !
i presume, the revs drop better when cold, and when she gets hot, they 'hang' longer?
at 6k, does it 'cackle' and stumble kinda thing? or bog?

[zimm]

revs hanging at ~2k is a weak idle mixture, worn slides or an intake leak

stumbling/hunting at 6k is float heights.

LOTS of trial and error or a couple of hours with a decent dyno operator.

[shakey]

yes they do hang when it gets even the slightest bit warm. basically with the revs if I give it a fist full from down low in the rev range it's hunting a bit feels like it really wants to go (kangaroo petrol) then higher up the revs (9 to 10K) she shoots off.

I live in west wiltshire (warminster).

[Jamz]

it's the revs not dropping below 2k sometimes hanging at 2.5 and dropping some times or not at all.

To be honest I've found this has happened with every single older bike I've had!

Flicking the revs up very slightly and quickly should settle it down, but I don't think it really matter all that much unless it's making you overheat?

It's just something that happens on bikes, man...

So far the bikes I cna remember it happening on are:

1994 ZXR400/444
1986 VFR750 (possibly both of the ones I've had)
1993 VFR750
1994 ZX9R
1991 ZXR750

Hmm... probably is the sliders, actually! FI bikes don't seem to do it, and neither do 2-strokes!

[shakey]

It wouldn't bother me either but the MOT man keeps failing it on incorrect throttle opperation.

[masterofinsanity]

have you changed or lubricated the throttle cables?

[Jamz]

It wouldn't bother me either but the MOT man keeps failing it on incorrect throttle opperation.

Could you take it somewhere else?

Or maybe turn the idle speed up to the level it sticks at (assuming it still won't jump 1000rpm more than that!) just to mask it through the MOT? I don't think idle speed is part of the MOT - i guess I can see his point, but he's being very picky as it's certainly not dangerous!

In fact I'm not sure throttle operation is part of the MOT? I think the only reason they start the bike is for exhaust levels.

Otherwise how many people would fail for flatspots in the rev range when using their spare road legal can just to get through the MOT?

[masterofinsanity]

the throttle has to operate smoothly, not stick and return to its idle position.

[parby81]

but does that just mean that the cable must operate smoothly and return to normal position. I could see that being dangerous!!

[masterofinsanity]

how? it s dangerous if it sticks open and you want to stop.

[parby81]

Thats what i meant. if the cables were to stick then the engine would continue to rev freely even when your hand was taken off the throttle as it would not return.

the throttle has to operate smoothly, not stick and return to its idle position.

Surely this could be interpreted from your post as to be merely the mechanical movement of the throttle grip as opposed to when the engine is actually running.

[zxr_oli]

Lower it so it barely idles, they will pass it but think it just runs crap