nuts and bolts

[crushedlizard]

I want to replace all the nuts/bolts involved with changing sprockets, including the big axle nut. Where's the best place to get them?
My current ones look like they've been hauled up form 10 000 leagues under the sea...

Cheers

EDIT: Checked out 'tasty nuts' (Pro-Bolt) and surprisingly the anodised sprocket bolts are cheaper. They have SS inserts (as they are obviously load bearing). Anyone used these? I'm a bit concerned about Ali bolts but if they are really SS surrounded by Ali - they should be ok? (unless they strip when it comes to removing them!)

[zimm]

they might have steel threads, but the ally outer can round-off very easily and even separate from the threaded part.

i wouldnt bother personally, clean the oe ones up, or get some titanium

[rover220]

stainless shouldnt be used for load bearing parts

[RedexRobB]

ally nuts and bolts are absolute shite, as zimm said they will round off easily. And as Rover said dont use stainless for load bearing parts, stick to OEM is my advice.

Theres a bolt guide i did in the 'know your stuff forum' i think, they are the sizes you will need for the fairings as everything else i left standard or bought new OEM such as sprocket nuts to replace knackered ones.

http://zxrworld.co.uk/zxr400oc/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=368

[crushedlizard]

Cool, thanks people. I was a little unsure of SS but it's all they did. To be honest though, I can't see SS nuts being that bad - it's a bolt's shaft which requires the most strength. The nut merely has to resist unwinding or shearing it's thread. Although you can't torque them as high, with locking oil I can't see SS being a problem with sprocket nuts.

As for the wheel nut, I'm certainly getting Ti. My old is just a brown furry blob! I'm certainly not looking forward to the gunge that will be behind my front sprocket!

[RedexRobB]

I remmeber when i cleaned my engine up, took me about a days work cleaning the old oil off of it and cleaning it up with some autosol. The gunk by the front sprocket just takes ages to get off, i felt liek forever soaking with de greaser and wiping continually.

[zimm]

As for the wheel nut, I'm certainly getting Ti. My old is just a brown furry blob! I'm certainly not looking forward to the gunge that will be behind my front sprocket!

just a thought, and i know its certainly not as bling as ti (but who the f*** is ever going to know its ti anyway?) but you can get corrosion eating Gel that will get all these parts looking like new after an overnight soak. Costs far far less than titanium bits n bobs and you know you've got OE steel strength.

and yeh, the nuts'd be fine, (apart from the fact they are crap) its just stuff like engine mounts, disc bolts, caliper bolts etc... that really come under much actual load on a bike.

[crushedlizard]

I remmeber when i cleaned my engine up, took me about a days work cleaning the old oil off of it and cleaning it up with some autosol. The gunk by the front sprocket just takes ages to get off, i felt liek forever soaking with de greaser and wiping continually.

lol I hate to think what I'm going to find under there. I'm probably going to gain the equivalent of about 10bhp just from freeing it up!

just a thought, and i know its certainly not as bling as ti (but who the f*** is ever going to know its ti anyway?) but you can get corrosion eating Gel that will get all these parts looking like new after an overnight soak. Costs far far less than titanium bits n bobs and you know you've got OE steel strength.

Cheers. I was considering cleaning them up but the wheel nut is so far gone I'd rather just stick something fresh on there. They're not too expensive for the Ti nuts (well the sprocket ones are - £38 won't be getting those!) and I like the idea that they will not rot away. Plus they save weight innit so I'll be well fast now!

[RedexRobB]

just a thought, and i know its certainly not as bling as ti (but who the f*** is ever going to know its ti anyway?) but you can get corrosion eating Gel that will get all these parts looking like new after an overnight soak. Costs far far less than titanium bits n bobs and you know you've got OE steel strength.

Ive got some stuff i used on the carbs for my XJR400, called Jenolite, certainly works but you need to paint the surface with that stuff to stop it happening again.