Upgrading an H1 to an SP (M)

[Mori Man]

In the process of gathering parts for the soon arriving H1.

So far from a SP:
USD front end (H2 model)
32mm FCR's with TPS
Throtle and choke cables
Inlet stubs with vaccum take off's
CDI
triple clamp set (for 636 conversion - maybe)
SP cams (used)
M-Max box (new)
4-2-1 Exhaust system


Awaiting:


Still to get:
Wiring loom
Ignition pick-up/advancer

I have just been contacted and asked if there is anything else off an SP I want, so the question is,

What else is recommended to get from an SP - can't go a full engine just now but is there any other "wee" things that are an aid to the conversion?

Is the rear shock any better?
Are the coils any better?
Will I need the rectifier/regulator?

If the engine was up for grabs at sensible money, what's the benefits of getting one, how much of a power gain is there over and above an H engine (removing the FCR's from the equation) ?

Don't want to pass up the opportunity of getting the right parts if available rather than gathering them over months - mind you I'll probably have months of work to do on the bike anyway

Cheers

DS

[zimm]

depends what SP it is !

L model SP's have fully adjustable rear shocks, some H sp's dont .. but i think thats just the H1-sp .. however, if its off an L, you'll ideally need an L linkage (rocker), or an H spring to put on it, L setup is more progressive and uses a lighter spring, H is more linear, i prefer the H setup tbh, but its a personal thing, mates got a race shock sprung for an L on his H and its WAY too soft with the H rocker.

other than that, close ratio box is about all there is to it.. oh and the KBATL slipper clucth, cos that didnt come in till the L's, and your H1 wont have one, unless its been fitted at a later date. (not that they exactly .. like .. work or anything anyway)

as for power diff .. once you've got the cams, and they are dialled in (its only the inlet thats a different profile anyway) nowt, get the head skimmed, do your porting thing, chuck the base gasket to tighten the squish (no tighter than .6mm i've been led to believe and what i'll be aiming for when i re-do mine) and with the ram-air (you ARE going ram-air right!), flatties, cdi and a good exhaust you should be looking at mid 70's.

[Mori Man]

Cheers for that zimm, if I do the shock then more than likely will go Ohlins then

are the slotted cam sprockets standard? The ones I am after have them on them

Being an M it'll be L model stuff I am getting.

Wouldn't of thought that 400's produced enough torque to warrant a BTL cutch - can get one for the ZRX4 but never been tempted, I "hoof" it down the gears with no back end hop so like yourself think my money can go else where

Sounds like I am on the right track then

[zimm]

yeh, main advantage with SP cams is the adjustable sprockets .. they are standard .. which is good as its the only way to get the timing right once you've skimmed everything

inlet profile isnt much diff to stock, and the exhaust one is just a stock profile with the adjustable sprocket on it.

sp shock is good,, but doesnt look very bling just bear the rocker you've got fitted in mind when ordering as it does necessitate a spring rate to match, H is a 50/50, L is 60/40, so quite a difference ..

BTL clutch is standard on L's, but its set so tight it doesnt do feck all..

all of mine have hopped about like mad, except an H2 i had with an L engine i'd tuned up a bit.. someone had been there before me and setup the clutch to actually work (thinner steels) and it was so effective you couldnt bumpstart the bike at all, but no slip under power.

keep us informed, this is going to be a good one !

[jake]

sounds good.
altho, its the 33 fcr keihins you want dude. the 32fcrs, are for nc29 and maybe some of the fzr's.
I mean, try em, but they might not give you much more if any than the 32 cv's.

Are you sp forks from a h1 or h2? im interested to know about the h1 sp forks. im told, altho they dont have the extra adjustments of the j2/M models, they do have something going on. possibly nitrade coating internally? i dont know what that is, or what it does...
ive got them both, and the h2's are good, but the h1 are superb. both untouched apart from oil i think...
i think the h2 will be better when they have been maxtonised or similar

[zimm]

drew's forks are H2 sp