Hi all,
wonered if anyone had any advice on removing the engine support, stands, anyone done it and has something to check for?
hin is I have gone and got a compression tester pipe stuck in cylinder No. 4, don't know how only did it up hand tight. All the other 3 went fine but as always the final one got stuck! Gonna try different things at the w/e to hopefully get it out but if not it looks like the top end need to come off and get it out from the bottom.
While it's out I may as well check the clearences and maybe other stuff?
It's a L1 model currently being or attempting to be restored after standing for 5 years!
Engine removal
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- RedexRobB
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Wont the pipe come off with a long reach socket?? It might mean cutting the pipe and then doing it, but id be happy to do that if it saved me taking the engine out, unless of course you will be taking it out anyway.
Removing the engine isnt that hard at all. Best bet would be to take off the tank, airbox and carbs. Disconnect all the wiring from the motor and anything else that looks liek it might need taking off! Oh, the radiator will need to come of aswell along with the exhaust and drive chain.
Then its a case of undoing the 4 bolts which hold it in, it should then drop out.
I really would be trying to find a way of getting that tester pipe out tho, its gonna save you a hell of alot of work if you can. shoulda put a dab of copper grease on the thread.
Hope that all helps
Removing the engine isnt that hard at all. Best bet would be to take off the tank, airbox and carbs. Disconnect all the wiring from the motor and anything else that looks liek it might need taking off! Oh, the radiator will need to come of aswell along with the exhaust and drive chain.
Then its a case of undoing the 4 bolts which hold it in, it should then drop out.
I really would be trying to find a way of getting that tester pipe out tho, its gonna save you a hell of alot of work if you can. shoulda put a dab of copper grease on the thread.
Hope that all helps
Well, have already got the rad, air box etc off as restoring it and trying to get it started - Hence compression test! Thing is the nut on the pipe is only clearing the walls of the spark hole/shaft(?) by a couple of milimeters so a socket would need to be wafer thin to get on it or a sort of spiked socket, was thinking of a fuel pipe puller or some form of long pliers to hold the pipe lower down to get a bit of traction, only turning the pipe at the top at the mo'. Just really pi***d as the other 3 went fine and the compression seems to be ok all round (about 100 psi for a cold engine).
- RedexRobB
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- deviant
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you probably want to catch it when it does though...RobB wrote:Then its a case of undoing the 4 bolts which hold it in, it should then drop out.
In the garage:
Kawasaki ZXR400 L3 - shiny
Suzuki DR800 - bouncy
1978 Suzuki GS400 - PROJECT RETRO RACER!
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Kawasaki ZXR400 L3 - shiny
Suzuki DR800 - bouncy
1978 Suzuki GS400 - PROJECT RETRO RACER!
Kawasaki GPz500S - for sale soon
Honda CG125 BR-J - in bits
- RedexRobB
- Site Admin
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- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 7:37 pm
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- Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
Deviant - Yeah, gotta catch the thing or it could get messy - Probably knock up a wooden frame or something.
Mongo - Gonna borrow a few pliers/mole grips etc at the w/e and give it a good go, didn't want to try anything too drastice last time - wanted to calm down and think for a bit.
As for the compression of 100, I thought it was on the lower limit (?) but if this is considered too low then maybe I should get the motor out and check it out valve seats, rings etc as I said it's been standing for around 5 years and I bought it for next to nothing as a project/learning thing so there is no real rush (apart from wanting to do a few track days this year)
Thanks for the current advice all.
Mongo - Gonna borrow a few pliers/mole grips etc at the w/e and give it a good go, didn't want to try anything too drastice last time - wanted to calm down and think for a bit.
As for the compression of 100, I thought it was on the lower limit (?) but if this is considered too low then maybe I should get the motor out and check it out valve seats, rings etc as I said it's been standing for around 5 years and I bought it for next to nothing as a project/learning thing so there is no real rush (apart from wanting to do a few track days this year)
Thanks for the current advice all.
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Hi Mongo,
Yep, heared about that oil thing to see if it's barrel/pistion rings or valves but first I need to get the bloody pipe out
Once I do I'll check it again but really all I want to do is get it started and see what else needs to be done. If to much stuff goes wrong I'll probably just break it, if most stuff goes ok then I'll look into getting it running well.
Do you or anyone rekon that I can get it started with about 100psi? The manual states between 99 - 150'ish so it is on the low side, but if I can get it started and ride around a bit I should find out if it's worth going the extra yard.
Yep, heared about that oil thing to see if it's barrel/pistion rings or valves but first I need to get the bloody pipe out
Once I do I'll check it again but really all I want to do is get it started and see what else needs to be done. If to much stuff goes wrong I'll probably just break it, if most stuff goes ok then I'll look into getting it running well.
Do you or anyone rekon that I can get it started with about 100psi? The manual states between 99 - 150'ish so it is on the low side, but if I can get it started and ride around a bit I should find out if it's worth going the extra yard.