Cutting Out!

[Tyrant]

Some of you may have read my previous post and helped me with my previous problems.
The bike had managed to blow the headlight bulbs, tail light bulbs, rev counter and the rev counter bulbs, neutral indicator bulb, fuel pump relay, starter switch, fuel pump and battery.

In trying to fix the bike I have replaced all the bulbs, fixed the starter switch, new fuel pump relay, new regulator/rectifier, new fuel pump, new battery and new coils.

With all of these bits having been replaced the bike was running the battery flat and stalling so I have tried a second reg/rec.

<><><> Having left the flat battery on charge for a while the bike started and ran as normal. The battery seemed to be charging and showed around 13.5v when at I assume (no rev counter) about 4 - 5K revs.

I left the bike to reach temperature until the fan kicked in and the bike stalled. I tried again and could stall the bike by giving it a few quick consecutive pulls on the throttle. It also stalled if I switched on high beam. I put the multimeter back on the battery and was only showing around 12.5v when rev'd to around 4-5k revs.

I put the battery back on charge, let the bike cool down and tried again. The process repeats as from <><><> above.

What is wrong with the thing? Any ideas?
(does anyone want a cheap ZXR? )

[masterofinsanity]

sounds like you have a short somewhere if the bike is stalling when you put main beam on, why it would cause it to stall? i can only assume its shorting the power to the coils, i would strip all the black tape off the loom and chase/check every wire.How long have you had the bike?
If the battery is not charging and we now the battery and rectifier is ok then it could be a short with the generator coil, you can test this from instructions in the manual.

[Tyrant]

I've had the bike for around a month - A week of that it was running.

I've checked the loom and connections, striped them back and had the multimeter on loads of different points and all seemed ok. I'll check the alternator output voltage and generator (stator?) coil resistance as per the manual and report back. Cheers!

[Tyrant]

Please forgive me for being a noob with this!....

Resitance between the black leads show a consistent 0.4 which I'm assuming is ok.

The output voltage of the black wires leaving the stator are around 18V each (54v total) at an estimated 4k revs. I'm assuming that's far too high? What are the possible causes and solutions?

[masterofinsanity]

did you check this as per the manual with 3 batteries?

[Tyrant]

I thought the 3 batteries was for testing the reg/rec?
I used chapter 15 page 14 of the manual to test the output voltage and stator coil resistance?

I get the feeling that the reg/rec is now working properly but the battery is full and so its not sending loads of power?
When the bike cuts out the lights remain on and I can start it back up with the choke so no longer a power issue but a fuel one?

Fuel pump seems to be working.

Maybe the carbs need a clean? Any tips/pictures/guides on how to do this?

Thanks!

[masterofinsanity]

I thought the 3 batteries was for testing the reg/rec?

sorry just thinking from memory.

[Tyrant]

Got me confused then I thought I'd done it completely wrong (as opposed to just badly! lol)

I've cleaned the carbs, and although it does run smoother the problem remains.
Could it be the starter solenoid thats causing it to run the battery flat? It's just the starter solenoid, the CDI and spark plugs that remain to be changed!

The charging problem seems intermittent and it has since my last post run the battery flat again.

[zimm]

Please forgive me for being a noob with this!....

Resitance between the black leads show a consistent 0.4 which I'm assuming is ok.

yup

The output voltage of the black wires leaving the stator are around 18V each (54v total) at an estimated 4k revs. I'm assuming that's far too high? What are the possible causes and solutions?

going through the same thing with mine at the moment, from reading the manual, AC voltage between two of the black wires should be "about 43V"

if yours is reading 18V, then its either your windings are screwed, or the magnet on the rotor is tired.

having just changed my windings for some that didnt have black crispy bits, im still not sure if its fixed, as my multimeter has decided to throw a fit and pack up

logically if the genny/alternator is screwed, it puts a massive load on everything else including the battery trying to keep up

[Tyrant]

As I understood it I should add the 3 readings of 18v together which makes 54v much higher than the 43v and I felt they were ok - but i'm hoping i got that wrong and they should be reading 43v on each as you say.



Reading it again your right I've confused the line 'total 3 measurements' for total (add up) the 3 measurements.

[zimm]

lol, confused the hell out of me too, read the H model manual, its less ambiguous, but does get the colour of the wires wrong

i still dont know if mine works .. think if its screwed i'll disconnect all the charging gubbins and buy another battery and a quick charger.. or if streetstocks allow it, go total loss properly and dump the flywheel for added zing

[Tyrant]

Just tested the CDI as per the manual too. It only shows correct readings on connection B to D of 0 resistance. The rest all test 1.

Is it the CDI thats causing the troubles, the generator or both!?

[zimm]

what bike is yours mate ?

ive got 3 spare known good CDI's

21119-1332 uk spec L
21119-1394 import L4
21119-1271 H1

you're welcome to try 'em if your bike will make it over this way.

**EDIT** just bought a new multimeter, with new (old) non-crispy windings, im getting 43V-50V ac across each pair of black wires.

[Tyrant]

So do you think yours is sorted? At least that's confirmed it should be 43v on each.
Baz may have a CDI and stator I'll buy if they're the right ones. I think I'd be lucky to make the end of my road but I appreciate the offer Zimm.

Is it a case of cleaning the rotor or replacing?

[zimm]

thought you were over my way ? walesish .. ?

i may have both windings and flywheels going spare, although without checking i cant say what condition they are in. All off an H.

the import L cdi is yours for postage mate if its of any use to you, im never going to use it.

i "think" mines fixed .. cant really test it as it's not road legal, so cant ride it, and cant leave it idling for ages as it hasnt got a fan .. but the windings are giving correct readings, and the battery voltage is spot on at 14.blah irrespective of revs. Only symptom it ever had when it was on the road was the battery going flat all the time, but when it wouldnt hold charge overnight i just figured it was a duff battery and got on with bumpstarting it. Only found this after doing a final check on my homebrew race loom. And even then it was just that the revs were dropping slightly when revved, instead of rising. Which its still doing .. but not as much, and me battery's half dead now, so its probably that.

looks like mine was the alternator all along, which had fried the reg/rec as it was working too hard (new one fitted when i bought the bike) which had in turn fried the battery.